BenBB

Sold, thanks alot fasstbanshee.

Big 'ol fuel tank for sale, $75 shipped, not pretty but fully functional... Got it from NAXBansheeman like 4 or 5 years ago and paid $100 for it then, talked NYUK into some cheap nose plastic, my bars hit the tank at full lock so had Stan aka CottonEyeJoe @ Dune Devil Inc. whip me up a billet handlebar riser. This stuff all has some serious miles on it while I was racing desert, but it works perfectly with the exception of the included petcock which leaks, I always swapped my stock one back and forth from tank to tank, which is the perfect opportunity to drain the sediment out of it and inspect the plastic mesh strainers. The right side has alot more nicks in the tank than the left, not sure why it came that way when I got it. The nose plastic has a largish hole/crack and is scratched & faded to match the tank, but hey at least you don't have to hack up your own nose plastic to run the tank. Includes IMS tank, IMS cap, reaaally old leaky petcock, stock cap off an '01 with vent hose, handlebar spacer and bolts, tank rear mounting bolts, and upper mounting brackets. All the threads are intact (for the petcock mount and upper tank mount-the brass is not stripped out or loose or anything). I have bigger/closeup pictures available if you're interested, lemme know.

Damn that one came out nice :cool:

If the tubes aren't bent or leaking I'd just straighten the fins, I've never had any luck with those comb things because the way the fins run back and forth between tubes (look at it close and you'll see). A small flatblade screwdriver works though, just takes what seems like forever. I had one split, don't remember if it was on a tube or at the tank, anyway I think a good used one was about $50 from NYUK...

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Nice pics blue-banshee, Dyno Dean, king of the desert :beer:

You ever get a deer Denny? I figured you were busy butcherin' and building soupies :cool: Sucks both your quads are down...I dunno what's worse that or like me seeing them sit there and no time to ride I'm here every day or three but don't post lots. I thought Stan said he found another possible-future-Cotton-Eyed-Joette (Joan??). I talked to Holyman, fuck I guess it's been about 2 years ago now, had him do the kicker on my son's '01. I'm pretty sure Fixitrod and JKJK and even Wheatchex and B370 stop by on occasion, seems like I saw a post from JJ a while back and I know DMC and NYUK are on all tha time...

Got the Sand Sharks and fronts today, they look awesome THANKS!!!!

They don't look that bad to me, the chrome on the shafts is intact, there's little or no evidence of leakage (look on the insides of the springs), sure those top springs are ugly but covers are cheap, hell the springs aren't that spendy you could even get chrome ones from Works. Just sayin'. Good luck man, I'd take them off your hands but I'm looking for another Banshee for my daughter first...oh jeez a third Banshee I think I've gone over the edge hahahaha

I agree, lotsa practice to get your weight positioned just right off the line, and then move back once you're underway... Best advice I ever got was from a buddy that dragged a ZX11 streetbike (asphalt). Pull up to the line and stand on the rear brake, lean up on the tank, drop it in gear (1st or 2nd depending on what she'll pull), rev it way up there and ease the clutch out until you can just barely feel it pulling...when it's go time pin the throttle, dump the rest of the clutch and release the rear brake all at once and you'll be GONE. What happens is the slipping clutch is working against the rear brake and keeping the chain TIGHT, there's no jump from chain slack and much much less chance of the front end going over on you. Just takes some time to get the perfect weight position so you don't spin (too far forward) or wheelie (too far back); once you hit the next gear you should be waaaay back on the seat and hauling balls Tires make a huge difference too, mass horsepower and perfect technique won't overcome shitty tires :ermm:

Nice!! I'm readin' it now and the gears are already turnin' :biggrin:

I got in at 6am, just 10 more hours to tha weekend... :biggrin:

That's the hardest part too, liquid (alcohol) diet oughta help I always thought dentists & orthodontists oughta have hot topless assistant girls, they're always reaching across you for something, you're always sitting there looking down at them...often drooling uncontrollably anyway, what the hell lol!

I'm pretty sure all you'd need to do is tap onto the yellow wire (for lights, assuming you have the stock circuit) to a bulb, and run a wire from the other side (ground) of the bulb to that terminal on the little white plastic shift drum cover from an RZ or if it has the terminal the FAST one. The RZ just uses one wire so I'm guessing that terminal grounds when you're in neutral, completing the circuit and illuminating the light...

Blaster & Banshee axles interchange, easy way to gain 2" on a Blasty but you'd be goin' -2" the other way. Banshee & YFZ450 front brake master cylinder and calipers are direct bolt-ons, YFZ450 lines will work even with +2 a-arms although the tee mount doesn't match up exactly it'll work. I'd bet Raptor and Warrior are the same, although single piston like Banshee and not 2-piston like the YFZ. There's the Blaster pegs thing too, 2" back and a little lower, I think Raptor pegs are similar. Oh hey intakes and crossover tubes/boost bottles interchange from Banshee to RZ350 along with a couple other items :happy:

PM sent on tha Sharks & fronts...

^^^ and torque the living piss out of those nuts...impact set to "ridiculous" or 6-8' cheater bar...

:yelrotflmao: Some good advice here man, and I hope for the best for ya. Definitely do all the research you can and get as many opinions as possible, google the Mayo Clinic and all you can find on nerve damage (there's a shitload of information but very little real solutions). Doctors...most of them don't have a fucking clue, some do don't get me wrong, but they are few and far between. Most want to push meds or surgery or my personal favorite, mega-expensive electronic or mechanical implants. Fuck that. It's like that old joke about the harley mechanic and the heart doctor that owns the hog he's working on, the mechanic says "I do the same shit as you, I can replace the heart of this bike from the crank to the pistons, why do I make ten bucks an hour and you rake in 100k a year?" and the doc says "try doing it while it's running". The doctors know what they learned in med school and what they've seen in internships or practice, but it doesn't mean they've seen it all or know what it takes to fix any ailment...and surprisingly there's a whole lot of shit out there that nobody has any idea why it happens or what will fix it or anything. So drive on and don't get discouraged, good luck.

Thanks bk_banshee, we hit some hardpack between dunes I'm afraid Haulers won't hold up (I had a set and exchanged them for Extremes), plus he wants to slide so I'm looking for curved paddles...

Haha no doubt, how's it going Rod?!!! There's still some old school dudes around, if not lurkin' they will pop in from time to time and say hey. Long live tha HQ :beer:

Went down to $2.49 here (for 87), I think it almost hit $4 over the summer...

Looking for a pair of cheap molded paddles & rims...like 20" curved on stock rims around $100, I can cover freight if you use UPS and have 'em charge my account. I know it's a long shot but I reaaaaally hate ebay heh :biggrin:

I agree, don't chance it. My first set failed about 2 miles from the truck in the dunes, had to get towed back by a DS650 and it chewed the carrier pretty good. I would also suggest doing the grease zerk mod to the stock carrier if that's what you're using, just pry the inner seals off the two bearings, drill & tap the carrier for a zerk and you're good to go (I also drilled & tapped for a vent bolt but that's probably optional).

Good luck man :beer:

I'd definitely get the OEM bolt, they sell them individually. The pads slide on the pin end of it and I wouldn't want 'em to hang or anything. Ronnie's shows it in the parts microfiche for $6.35 each, part # 1UY-25924-51-00. Wierd that it backed out even with the tab hammered against it, never had that happen :shrug: