BenBB

It will, have faith man. And don't curse her behind her back shee'll know :ermm:

Cool let us know what happens when you can get a decent ride in (fuck work sometimes ya gotta have priorities lol!).

Another vote for NAY dude.

Glad you found it. I'll hafta remember that I've never heard that happening, and I usually tighten mine pretty damn tight you musta put some gorilla torque on them suckers lol!

Nice looking Banshee :cool: Hopefully someone else will post but...whoever told ya that the crank being out of alignment would allow the piston to hit the head at tdc is either a moron or way more enlightened than I am, because I don't see that being physically possible; the piston's distance from the crank centerline can't change regardless of that side's crank lobe/assembly position relative to the other side. If the crank twists, it doesn't make the rod longer... Anyway, yes I do think if you advanced the timing it would make it run hotter if you didn't rejet to compensate, what did you change the jetting to and what was it before? As far as the dome sizes, there's not really a "wrong" size, just a matter of running the right fuel octane to prevent detonation, so if you're running 93/110 and it doesn't detonate, you're probably good to go there and it shouldn't cause overheating issues. If it was me I'd find out the exact dome size and ask around about what octane matches that dome size, you'll run into issues going way above or below the required octane (I'm no expert there)...I do know it's a give & take thing where the smaller the dome (higher compression) the more power you'll build (especially noticable at lower RPM) but the higher octane you'll need ($$$) to run it safely. From what I've experienced, overheating is usually directly related to jetting, so if I were you I'd learn all you could about proper jetting, it's worth the effort and not only gets you the most power out of your motor but will make it last (scope out the Jetting FAQ for some more info). If it's not jetting, either something in the cooling system is jacked or you're not getting enough airflow over the radiator, by lugging it around too slow or mud caking on the radiator or whatever...they like to get movin' and stay that way. BTW water wetter or engine ice is good stuff, add a little (doesn't take much read the label) and ideally get a temp gauge to let you know just how hot she is, it's worth it. Good luck.

True that. Look at the bottom of the slide, where the needle hangs; one side of the slide his an angled "cutaway" from the base upwards, that should face the airbox.

Are you sure the little brass guide thing hasn't backed out? I had one do that, just had to push it back in (straight) and ding the aluminum with a punch. The slide shouldn't rotate at all, the clips rtcc is talking about screw into the side of the carb body and engage the top where it threads onto the body (just a small metal L-shaped thing with a notch that matches to one of the nubs on the cap so it can't back off)...mine were gone when I got it so you might not have 'em. You may need to adjust the cable at the twist also, so the slide doesn't raise above that brass guide, it shouldn't have to go that high to get full throttle. Good luck.

I doubt it but I don't know, mine would prolly just stall out...

It's either the switch itself or the black/white wire somewhere between the CDI and the switch; it works by telling the CDI to shut down when black/white is grounded to either black or the frame (or to black via the switch). You can try to test the switch with an ohmmeter to see if it makes a complete circuit between black/white and black, like at the connector behind the radiator, it should be open circuit when "on" and closed when "off". If that's not it you'll either have to trace that wire in the harness or use a tester to narrow it down (like check for continuity between black/white at the CDI plugin, harness side, and the handlebar switch connector, harness side). Good luck.

Reminded me of the two cops on "Superbad" lol, those guys rocked My wife works for the DA, not an easy business to be in when it seems like a revolving door with the same idiots in & out of the system. Sucks to hear tithead, that's some shit right there. Hope you get her back soon...with a side of vengeance preferably :verymad:

"Pure", gonna release for Xbox 360, PS3 and PC, not sure when, I've only read a little about it but it's from some of the guys that did MX vs. ATV, this time with even more insane jumps, tricks, etc. The draw distance is amazing, and they say you can customize damn near everything on the quad (notice the bomb squad bumper on the last pic). I'll be picking it up when it comes out...

You sure it's not a jetting issue? What did you do to the jetting? What mods/circumstances made you change it? Have you adjusted the airscrews at all? May be something completely different (like the stator as you suspect)...excessive (like dripping) oil at the ends of the pipes is an indication it's not burning the fuel completely, which could be from rich jetting or could be from ignition (lack thereof). Another thing is you say it runs great for a little while right after you clean the air filter, but then hit the trails and the problems start...like once the air filter takes in a little dust it's suddenly TOO rich...or else the heat is creating an electrical issue. Strange. If it was mine I'd rule out jetting first; adjust airscrews and see if it changes, maybe mains depending on what they were or what you did to it. If you've tried that or are certain it's dialed in...are you sure there's no exhaust obstructions? Reeds ok? Carbs getting fuel? Almost sounds like it's starving for fuel, or vapor locking the fuel tank, your vent hose ok?? You confident the 200W stator is wired right?

That's some serious horsepower under the hood if it's running 60+ fps... Kind of a Ford/Chevy thing there too between the box & PS3, part of me wishes they had more software that would justify the steep asking price, or come down on it, but when you think about what you're getting compared to a similarly setup PC it's almost cheap. Almost. Pure looks damn good too, 'course anything with Banshees can't be bad heh:

Nice Banshee, damn nice 250R, welcome aboard :cool:

Right on!

My mistake, thanks for the correction. I shoulda said if it's 80 over it's only got one more bore (ok technically 2 but I've always had to go 20 over at a time due to either damage or ovaling). There was a blue Banshee for sale here locally (I dunno an '01 or '02) I stopped and talked to the guy, it had a few bolt ons like pipes & filter. I ask him what bore it's on and he says 80 over (and stock porting), I'm like damn did you blow it up or just ride the piss out of it, he says naw I just wanted more power...uhhh okay...

You can thread it out, under the rubber cap there's a brass hex, just pull it out and scope out the o-rings...BTW it might not work if you got the float bowls reversed, one has a passage for the choke tube that sticks down on the LH carb...

That's cool...hold on STOCK bore? Well if you're ok with j-arms then there's really no other difference in a later model Banshee, I don't think $2k would be too far outta line IF it's on the stock bore size and he's a stand-up guy. Post some pics if the deal goes through...

I would suspect that's the problem, but have you tried calling Ricky Stator? I ran their a-arms for a long time a few years ago and one of their stock stators for a little while before going to the RZ mill (which the stock RZ stator I started with also died on me, running an Electrex now...maybe not relavent here but you literally have to kick it over like a gorilla because I don't think I wired the low-RPM coil right, they weren't too helpful when I emailed, anyway I don't think factory Yamaha stators are built to last heh), and every time I called and talked to someone there @ RS they WERE helpful. That may not be the case anymore but I think it would be worth a try, especially since you found a different resistance...

That's priceless, I'd pay to see that shit

That's crazy pinned247, I woulda been pissed too lol! Mitch, 2 grand is a little steep for an '87, that's a lotta time & miles unless the previous owner really took good care of it, and even then things just wear out (rubber gets brittle, cracks develop in the frame, bushings wear out, etc.). The two things I would do is ask what bore size it's on (20 over? 40? if it's 80 over you can't bore it again so that means either resleeving and reporting/port matching or starting over with fresh jugs when it comes time for another topend), and understand that '87-'91 Banshees have J-arm front suspension so it's harder to upgrade if you decide to go wider. Other than that just look it over REAL close and try to figure out if it's been rode hard & put up wet or babied for the last, what, 21 years?!

It should have idle screws facing the outside of each carb (LH one on left, RH one on right), but you have to drill & tap those when installing a TORS removal kit so the previous owner might not have done it: You can use the cable adjusters on the tops but they won't work well, Toomey and others should sell just that part of the kit, it would be worth doing...

Is that modquad slider the one you can put on without pulling the swingarm off? Maybe that's not an issue if ya still have yours off heh. I have all TM Designworks on my '96 and I'm very satisfied, if you can afford it go with them you won't be disappointed (mine ate I don't know how many of those damn rollers but the TMs have lasted several years now). I have the Cascade-style swingarm slider on my son's '01 and it works fine too, haven't really noticed any difference there compared to the TM, it may or may not last any better I dunno. The TM rollers are damn sure worth it though...

Yeah they do, wish I had the cabbage. Got an '01 Blasty but not what you're lookin' for...

Dammit Guess I'd go with plan B and get tha stuff from John, try the new coil first but you might have to do the CDI as well...actually that's pretty damn good if your CDI is the original '87 heh, it lasted a long time :biggrin: