GrMeyer

my price was just for a rebuild with oil and charge. you still have to buy the rezzies. I was just trying to let you know what how much it is going to be to have a rezzie added to a shock for the work of oil and recharge and maybe more depending on what needs to be rebuild inside

as of how much they are...you ill have to find a shop that can get them or you can call elka and see how much they will send them out... My dad and a buddy of mine run the none rez shocks and have had great luck with them. The thing is that when you add a rez there are some different ones you can look at...1 is just the rez and 2 is one with compression adj. so its just on how much your wanting to spend. but to just add them a shop will prob charge you around 75-100 a shock and thats with a rebuild.

+1

save your money and get elkas....i have had nothing but shitty luck with with works... they suck with customer service. ill respring and valve the yfz450 shocks before i buy from works or have them revalve my shocks.

when was it that you had the fmf pipes? because i have them and have nothing but great luck with them. the only prob i have is with the fmf springs...so ACE is the place once again. but there are some builders that should be able to shoot you in the right place in pipes.

I like to get my ride riding better before i go fast. so suspension is the first thing i do and then i do go fast mods. but a good set of pipes will really open the bike...but the builders and people on here need to know what type of trail riding you will be doing to help you because thats why there are so many diff aftermarket parts because of diff riding. But all in all get ride of the Tors on the bike... That shit is a death trap if you start riding in water. so spend the extra 60 and get the kit and save yourself some head probs.

http://forums.everything2stroke.com/yamaha...eed-cage-2.html

some JB weld will do the works on that piston... As of Glamis for Presidents day weekend it is to rain...was out there last weekend and it rained like a mother... but the sand we fun and didnt have to worry about eating sand dust. just sand balls

yup ill go with the stock yfz450 shocks before i buy the works shit again... the rez on the yfz are bigger then the works so more oil better cooling. but then again anything is better then stock...so if you do happen to come by some then i would buy some. it does all depend on your riding because the works do fade fast in the dunes and the elkas will go all day and not even worm up.

you can also add on rez's to those shocks with compression adj later on down the road

ya fast or Ebay...I got mine from ebay. they are made for a VW motor so just key world search VW carb sync tool

I would go with the K&N in box set up...that why you can put the lid back on if you need to. you will see a big gain with just pipes and box mod. sense your in mud and water make sure you get the outerwear for the filter...If was riding in mud and all I would look into the outwear for the box that goes where the lid goes..that way it helps keep the water out and mud before it even gets to your filter

A-T is rec use and Pro series is what you can guess is for more of the pro rec riders. dual rate is has to springs on the shock. triple it has three springs on the shock. Triple is what you want. they just help more for taking the little bumps and harder landings. and if you can afford the compression and rebound settings then you will have your self a good set of shocks...im not a big works fan due to having springs keep breaking. moved all the elka and love my choice in that. but all in all. it depends on what kind of riding your doing.

list all your mods and some people will help to get you close to where you need to be with jetting and then you have to ride the horse to get the rest of the way

yes big time....dont run it tell you rejet it!!! unless you like rebuilding your motor

i was informed that after 150 you need to start running race gas..but what oct i havent a clue...i think you can get way with just 100oct

do you have the tors kit or all stock carbs?

the pilot has to be with the set of pipes you have...the pipes are not even close to one another and each motor will act diff from one another...A banshee is trial and trails tell you get it right...like I have fmf fattys with pods and still have the 25 pilot and 300 mains and runs like hell. im thinking about trying the 27.5 when i get around to it but it just runs so well...so ill try them and see if they help...you just have to keep jetting the mains tell you have no more gain on the top end. and then work the needle then pilot then the screw. there is a great how to vidoe. also sync the carbs is half the battle i found out. they will really shine if you have them dailed in. so $30 you can get the meter and if you have an old VW then you can use it for that as well. or any dual carb to quad carb set up

well before you start throwing some money for some gas do the comp test and see what your at... well all i know is that im at 300's with just pods, fmf fattys, ported reed rage, +4 timing and noss head with 20cc domes for glamis.

also added the three LED trailer light for the rear light...brighter then the stoker and lets power to run it! I added it to the bottom of the intake box just under the overflow tan...FYI...Tail Techs have lifetime on them so every time they do go out I just send them in and a week later have a new set!!! I think im on their 5th Gen Bal. All i know is they are bright and love them!!!

the stoker will run them...but you can run the lights from walmart or checker!!! they are like $20 and when the light burns out then you can order the MR16's off ebay for about a $1 a bulb!!! I have the ones from checker and love them... just added the 36 led lights to it put dont think they will be bright enough for the dunes at night. I had the floods in there from home depot that are $5 a light. and they are bright... im happy with with them to my trail techs on my raptor!!! So all in all 350 for the raptor lights or 20 for the walmart/checker lights and bulbs here and there... Do the math...

compression check it!!! Everyone is deff for dome sizes. i have 20cc an only around 115 so i know i need a new top end after this dune season. but it runs like a champ...so I say if you kick over 150psi then you will need to start running 100oct... and the builders will need a full list of mods and jetting to help you get some where close...but im guessing it is oct. or have you also looked for a vac leak?

very true but when you pay 200 w/shipping for a set of arms you can fight with ebay...

they only pop up every now and then...I waited for almost a year to get my arms. just watched ebay and finally won a bid. Didnt mind reaming the spindles because you can go to the store and get the tools for it or you can take it to a shop which shouldnt cost more then about $20