GrMeyer

Looks like you have the Idea and tools for this...Why didnt you just fab up some after market arms? Im gettin ready to take on a two seater buggy. should be interesting!!! and awesome work. never looked into adding on the stock arms

Thanks for all the Help!!! Now where is the best place to get the fly wheel puller?

I have riden the Burgard, Alba comps and Fullflights. They are all great. As of now I have the burgard on the banshee with yfz450 shocks because i got a sweet deal on the shocks for $100.00 and got the arms new off ebay for under $200.00. For what I ride for this is one of the best cheapest ways and im really happy that I went this way. But anything is better then stock!!!

dont i need a flywheel puller? and what else

Heat the nuts up and get some PT oil...

you can always look for some yfz 450 shocks if your in the money locker

Ok so the guy I got this She from had FMF Fatty and K&N no lid. And I took down the Carbs to put the Tors kit on and it only had 200 mains and 25 pilots. Here is what I did. Added Noss head and 20cc domes with K&N pods. It doesnt have a port job. So here is my ?. I need a starting point. I was thinking along the line of 310's with 27.5. and im at sea level. no timing.

tell you what..pull a hub off the banshee and then the z and cross them and see if they will work...and then tell me so if so then ill be changing the z400 to yamaha hubs due to the fact that i have 5 yamahas in the back shop...should would make it easier for trail riding and then the dune season when you blow a tire

Yes that is about the price for remote rezzies. I would ride the shit out of the shock tell you need to rebuild them and then add them. that way your not paying for just oil and a gas charge. but as stated above. anything is better then stock!!! I will always add suspension to a bike before i get into the motor. funner to ride a bike that doesnt kick your ass and funner when you can go faster because the bike can eat the bumps and jumps up

I got my burgard off ebay for like 200 shipped new. they are +2+1's and added the yfz450's for 150 with back shock. the front is nothing to the stock...they should have made the bike this way from the start. But just watch ebay... it might take you a month to find the stuff you need. I watched for a year for my 660 raptor and found a front with alba arms and elka dunes for 800 to my door and that is a dream!!!!

If you going to spend the money on after market shocks make sure you get the rezy's they will not alow your shocks to fade. My brother is having that prob in the dunes with his pro works. But i can ride hard all day on the elka dune Ed and get off and feel the shock and they are still the same temp as started. Heat is the number one killer to the shock. they will work fine on a trail bike. but if your having alot of arm movement up front for the suspension then you want the added oil to keep them cool and longer life. Just my .02 But other then that you can buy them now and add rez's later.

I use a truck, 2x4 and put the 2x4 on the tire and drive up on the 2x4 slowly and off it goes... Helps to have someone there to guide you. Or go to Haror Freight and get a breaker

Go to their web and give him a call. All I know is that I just put one of his heads on and what a Sweet head and very easy to do!!! Very happy I added one to my Shee. And i pulled the head gun out and it dropped my Temp alot...Thanks NOSS!!!!!

Well if you have read from my other post, i put a noss head on with a 20cc and only got around 115psi. But I have started to see that it smokes alot on start up but when it is warm it is fine. As of the Hot and Cold test... School said that you should do it on a warmed up motor. Due to that fact that metal expands when it is hot. So i have always done mine on a warmed up motor unless you cant get it started and want to see where your at.

Dont forget about when your shock heats up the PSI in the shock is going to go up making it harder. There were some people that put the air shocks on the rhinos and said that bye the time they got done riding they gained about 2in of ride hight. Cool but will make for a hard shock and then you will start killing other parts with a none moving shock. Might as well just welds some bars in the place of the shocks and go riding like a 10speed Huffy. I have the Elka dunes on my raptor and will not give them up for anything. My brother has the Works pro series piggy backs and like them but he is already lookin for elkas...He is on his 2nd rebuild this year just for the dunes...Could just be the rebuilder but they are better then stock and better then most. But what you pay for i what you get in the shock world I think just my .02

there you go...I would do the same thing then

where are you at? and all you have to do is call around in the local area to find a shock rebuilder... If they are just rebuilding and not revalving or respringing it should back to you in a week in no time...if you respring it thats where your money is going tho...so just an fyi, check and call to save some money for other parts

I found a guy that did the same thing to a +4 crank and to rebuild it was the same price as of a new one. Just shop around and look for a local engine builder. What is going to kill you is shop time. There are some guys in Phx that build some sprint car motors that i have talked to said they would love to try it...I just started to laugh. But wheres my warranty on that one...But you never know...Just start calling around on some Motor/car engine builders to see how much it would take for them to repress and true and weld...And your best luck is to find the shit and take the supplies with you to the builder... Just my .02

it is a new tester and i had the topend rebuild about two years ago but the bike has only been trail ridin in the last year of about 5 trips and no dunes... so thats why im lost. Oh well I might just pull the pistons and put some new rings on them and see if that helps. Or i might just wait tell I can throw some money down on a port job. But dont think it will be coming anytime soon due to Xmas and the newyears. Not like this is my only bike. Got to love my 660 raptor and the rhino because they have never let me down yet..(knock on wood)....I guess i will see how she runs when I send it off for the dyno tuning... just dont have time to be chopn plugs due to living in phx uptown. I could just see it now... High Speed Chase on a banshee...Damn choppers!!!! :ninja:

New update... compression on a warmed up engine is at 112 left and 115 right PSI. with 20cc domes in Phx.. I guess ill be having a new top end soon. I have a Tors kit coming and K&N pods. My last question is what oct gas should I run? im thinking just stick to 91 due to that fact that my compression is not as high as I was thinking it was going to be. But the Noss head is GREAT... no leaks or anything. Ill be putting up pics here later when i find my cam. Thanks for all the help :thumbsup:

Had no Gas left so i went and got the exstractor from H-Depot and it was like $20 which is cool now i have it for this crap later... and the think works like a champ..Good invest for this stuff!!! Thanks for the help

Ok so here is my prob now.. .I got he Shee taken down to the head and the last egg nut for the head rounded. :: Here is my question now... Whats the next best way to get the last nut off? tomorrow im going to heat the hell out of it and put some PT oil on it. I have tried the vice clamps on it but the damn thing wont break. need some help to put the Sweet lookn Noss head on!!!! :biggrin:

I have a feeling that it will not fit... I have the GTRY on my 660 raptor and it will not work on the Shee

Oh sorry im n Phx Az. so just 20-22 lbs and are there three heat treat ments for re torquing the head? And where is the best place to order or buy jets from?

I need to know what the torque specs on the Noss head and the heat treatments. And sec ? is for Jetting. stock carbs and intake moving up to K&N pods. No jug mods. FMF Fattys and no timing. Just needing a place to start im thinking like 27.5 and 280-310 mains?