GrMeyer

I have a thing with buying shit that dont have titles. I dont!!!

Yup same thing happend to my buddy...But now if we are on quads or the rhino we just run to the dunes and dune them gone. But as for that all i have done is said that they are build in. They dont have the time to sit there and take your shit apart.

one big ? for you is what are you riding on? Snow, Sand, Ice, Mud, Water, Dirt....I think you know where im getting at with this.

Call Mine ACE!!!!

The Banshee is what i like to call a Money Pit!!!

dropped a tooth up front for last dune trip and it did great.... didnt get to run the hill because I put a hole in the piston from a pod coming off. so no more stock clamps on my bike... Learned the hard way on that one.

100LL and 100oct. LL stands for Low Lead theres the diff be theres more to it then just that

the break is pro armor

Firehead is one to ask on fuel. But this has been done in the past and needs to be tagged. But As what everyone else is saying. my .02 would be to run avgas and mix it. here in Phx there is a gas station pump for 100 oct for $8.00 gal. or I can go to the air port and get 100ll for $5.00 But you need higher oct so you might want to get some new CC domes.

your going to get everyones .02 and you need a jar to start collecting. But it all depends on how much you want to spend and what your wanting out of the pipes. The pipes will really open up your bike and alowing it to breath is a big key to the bike. There are alot of pipes to look at. So just research and talk to some engine builders is your best start. So all in all you want to dune, trail ride and drag every now and then. That is a good place to start and you just need to find out if you want mid range pipes or top end pipes. My .02 is that i have had great luck with my fmf Fattys and everyone else i have riden with love the T5 for the all around fast trail and dunes pipe. so just take what you can from everyone and start counting the coin

well mine was the same way tell as of now...now my motor is out and all in parts. so a new clutch will be going in no matter what. And I think my 660 raptor is the same way tell it is warmed up which means the clutch plates are warped. have you had it cold and started it and put it in N and it wants to move frw?

it melted because i had a pod filter fall off at the dunes at night. and by the time i figured it out, this was the out come. So have do some thinking that I might as well just get them ported and go from there.

here is the piston

no those arent stock pistons with that bore...i was running wiseco 65.50 which is bored .020 over. and the next size is 64.75 which is .030 over

there is nothing shiny. I still can see the cross hatching and I miced the top mid and bottom and the 64.57 was the biggest at the bottom

whats the avg $ to have them cut? in Phx

only put a small hole in the top...the metal just melted to the inside of the piston.

well melted down a piston and the jugs are fine. i miced them out to 64.56 right and 64.57 left. so do i just need to get the wiseco 513M60450, and a new bottom end gasket with new O-rings to the noss head? or do i need to bore them over one?

im in Phx and have 300's but with pods so i would start around 320-310 and work your way down

Thanks...That was what i was looking at... I fried my top end due to a pod falling off in sand. I was just wondering if my jugs were going to be ok and they are. ill have to mic the jugs and see what size pistons i need. I also need to split the case and pull all the shit out and make sure everything is true down there. but all in all if the crank is bad i might just sell the motor for parts and find a R6 motor or R1 depending on the size diff. just dont see why 850 for a block and then another 400ish for a crank then pipes and carbs just to feed it... so never know...

can i run big bore or would be it be better to just buy the 65mm bore block?

that check valve is to be ontop and i dontremember when yfz came with none rez type shocks. but those you can add on rez. a buddy of mine called elka today and they said that price online is for one shock for the add on rez. he said that there has to be some work on the inside. so I dont see why not seeing if a local shop can do this mod but all in all you have to look at what all comes on the price when you start adding shit up for add on and rebuilding. so it might just be better off to find a set of used shocks and then send them in for a rebuild if needed.

umm is there a way you can take a pic and post a pic of your shocks?

found one even better for the shocks that are able to have the rezzies added on...http://www.hygearsuspension.com/reze.html

called around today here in Phx and found a guy that will rebuild the fronts which is just seals, oil and recharge for around 120 pair. not to shab if you ask me... when you can buy the gold kit for around that price and still have to buy your oil and your gas. and plus you know the shock guy will have it done right. www.racetech.com this place you can get the dual or triple rate spring kit for the yfz450 shocks. they have a sport and race series. they are around 299.00 from them but im guessing you can find someone or online that has a dealership with them to get them cheaper. if you have the yfz shocks which i have and am going to put the triple springs on them and get them revalved down the road. I feel that the yfzs will be better then the standard elkas due to the fact that they have compression and rebound adj. so I would rather build onto something that I already have. Just my .02