sandman

I did not mention the stator as I just didn’t see how it could cause yellow plugs & the bike would actually run great with it until the new plugs turned yellow. Live & learn I guess. After owning one of these for 24 years I still run into shit I’ve never seen or heard of before. Good thing I’ve got you guys around here to keep me straight!

Well after doing some part swapping & testing In the dirt it looks like you guys were mostly right . It wasn’t the fuel at all & was electrical. It wasn’t the CDI however it was the stator. I’d recently put this aftermarket stator on which I never wanted to do but couldn’t get my hands on a oem one while out on a trip so had to settle. Still don’t know how a stator causes yellow spark plugs but after switching back to an oem one they’re not turning yellow & bike runs like it should...smooth!

I suppose it’s possible alright but would a Cdi cause the the plugs to turn yellow? I should mention also that when I dropped 2 brand new plugs in, the studder on the top end went away until the plugs turned yellow 30 to 45 minutes into the ride at which point it returned.

I recently got back from a trip to the dunes & while I was there I experienced something I’ve never seen before. My spark plugs electrodes started turning yellow. I’ve read that this can be caused by old race gas & that the yellowing is caused by lead deposits. This effects the spark & in my case caused the bike to run rough on the top end (misfires). Has anyone else experienced this before? The fuel I had bought a month before trip from a distributor close to me which is where I always buy it but have never seen this before. I don’t know how old the fuel was before I bought it however. My jetting is spot on & has been the same for about 14 years. I run 50/50 race gas/ 92 octane with a dune port, +4 timing & 28mm pwk’s.

http://s547.photobucket.com/user/fastoyz/media/IMG_0482.png.html?filters[user]=86554056&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

I just picked up some MR16 led bulbs & plugged them in to the trail tech sockets. No more dimming at idle.

These pics. show the fact. banshee clutch vs. the older clutch pack I saved from an older bike that I believe is out of a R6 streetbike if I'm not mistaken. Fiber plates are wider on the R6 clutch vs. the banshee clutch along with the steel plates being round instead of irregular shaped. Gonna throw this one in & run it til it gives up I guess.

No it's the factory original clutch. The bike was tore down completely after I brought it home from dealer for powder coating, along with the cases being split for the stock crank to be welded up porting. etc.. It's been in there for 9 years. Basket looks really good as far as notching is concerned as what little bit of notching there is you can hardly feel if at all.

I was down at the ore. Dunes a couple weeks ago & started experiencing some difficulty getting the bike into neutral otherwise it ran fine. I drained the oil & found a lot of alum. Shavings. Once I got home I took the clutch cover off & found that the inner most fiber plate had broke into quite a few pieces. This is the first time in 19 years of being a banshee owner that I have had this happen. Anyone know what causes this to happen or is it just "one of those things"? Bike is an 05 & has some port work, domes prob. In the low 60's for hp I'm guessing with factory clutch basket/plates & stiff spring set on press. Plate.

Bike has just been sold locally. Thank you

Bike is still available. I have never shipped a quad before so please do your homework. I know there are lots of options out there & rates for that matter. I'm guessing you would be looking at anywhere from $500 to $700. to go cross country.

Thanks guys. As far as shipping goes I can facilitate p/u or drop off at a transport carrier however all cost & shipping arrangements would be up to buyer. Thanks again

My 2006 banshee up for sale: http://www.atvtraderonline.com/listing/2006-Yamaha-Banshee-350-111614548

This tapered bearing carrier has bearings, seals, zerk fitting & spacer collar installed. The carrier & bearings/seals are used but have a lot of life in them as I kept them greased. Carrier is a RAD brand & is chrome plated. I have no more use for this as I have switched to a roundhouse swingarm. Also included are 2 chain adjusters & 2 bolts/nuts for securing the bearing carrier to the swingarm which are also chrome plated. Carrier has one flaw which is a small chip in the chrome. See pic. Price $110 shipped Payment via paypal or POSTAL money order. [/img] Uploaded with ImageShack.us [/img] Uploaded with ImageShack.us [/img] Uploaded with ImageShack.us