GrMeyer

i have ran 32:1 for years and have had nothing but greatness with it.

You dont need 110 gas for 120psi in the compression. you can run 91-93 and be fine unless your running some massive timing. when you get around 150psi is when everyone starts running 100 oct. so unless you get the fuel for free I would save the money from the gas and buy some mods. as for true and welding. Crankworks.com is $115.00 in Mesa Az. Duncan racing is $100.00 ATV Racing in Phoenix Az is $75.00 So all in all I just use google and search for it

Yup we need as much info to help you on the jetting. so every mod dont to the motor.

as for the jet kit I dont know what...I just buy a shit load of jets and go from there. As for the filter it depends on where you ride. if your in water and mud alot I would go with the inbox air filter. if you ride sand and dry desert then I would say the dual clamp on filters. And for jetting to start with there should be somone people to throw you their .02 in what they have in for setting up

I had to go with ear buds because i couldnt hear the music unless I was low rpm...But i have gotten almost all of my dune'n crew onto listen to music while they ride. FYI JasonsBanshee if you cant ride by the feel of the quad then I dont know what to tell you on that part. I guess I have built in for riding so long

found this on a Rat rod site Atmospheric pressure is approximately 14.7 psi. (ballpark estimates): 8:1 - > 102.9 psi 8.5:1 - 102.9 > 110.25 psi 9:1 - 110.25 > 117.6 psi 9.5:1 - 117.6 > 124.95 psi 10:1 - 124.95 > 132.3 psi 10.5:1 - 132.3 > 139.65 psi 11:1 - 139.65 > 147 psi 11.5:1 - 147 > 154.35 psi 12:1 - 154.35 > 161.7 psi

Here is a site just made for the rhion like this one for banshee's http://www.rhinoforums.net/

Just a ? for you on why your wanting to ride a banshee slow? but im guessing that the carbs are flooding out. Just my .02

wouldnt going up in elv woundnt that be going rich due to the air being thinner? and its only around 2k elv so it isnt going to be that much of a diff so maybe one jet down on the main. i could see going from like sea level to 5k for about 2-3 jets but thats about it. when I go up to strawberry from phx I only have to jet down one.

got a lonestar on my raptor...well that should be a Was...I snapped it in half doing about 10mph doing desert riding...but have had good luck with my locking nuts on the that one... But yup tread locker...works like a champ. dont need much tho

I got ride of all the connections and the black box and was good to go...

Thanks for the input guys!!! Im going to call R's Atv sense they are close to my house!!!

Ok so I need/wanting to get my stock crank trued and welded because i just got my jugs ported and dont want the crank coming apart. So does anyone know anyone in Phx that does this work. Im sure there are plenty of engine builders out there but just wanting a shop I can drop off and then pick it back up.

and use some blue threadlocker on the nut. I have had to retighten mine after every ride tell i put on some thread locker

have you synced the carbs? and get the Tors gone. they are just probs. but for that set up and you are up to 3k on el so I would have to say move up to around 320 mains and go from there. work on mains first then work your way down the the needle and so on.

save your self the time and money and get a cub!!!

my raptor 660 thats got 52 hp to the wheels vs my banshee was well even most of the time. My brothers got a 700r putting out 60hp to the wheels and it smoked my banshee. But all my banshee had was pods, fmf fattys and noss cool head 20cc domes. So all in all...Im going to say porting will be the biggest key in killing a moded raptor.

I think a new shaft from elka is around $100.00+ rebuild from a shop

are you running the CPI pipes or what pipes...and you have porting as well so Im guessing you need to contact the porter/engine builder. But someone here should be able to get you close tell you can do some plug chops

all I can say is pull the carb and see what your running before you end up using a front end loader to move your cash to the bike for what it will eat...

just go get the shocks when hes not looking!!!

If you go the Raptor shock you will have to stay with the 01 and thats it. they changed the style on the 02-new... Best bet is to buy a new spring for the weight and arm you have. The valving will be off alittle but you can do that when you have some cash do get that done. Most shops will charge around 100 for a rebuild on the rear shock. so look around and try to find a shop that will A: rebuild it with valving. B: just new oil, air and seals. C: spring with (A) and (. You can get an eibach spring for the weight and go from there!!!

forced air induction for cooling is what i would have said!!!

Has the shop been doing all the work for you...If so then they will have done the jetting for you. and if they dyno it, they will most then likey jet it to get the best numbers.

I start with 5psi and see how they hook up and go down from there. if it is really soft sand ill drop them down to around 4psi and if it is wet sand ill put them up to around 5-6 depending on how much grab im getting out of the tires but all in all 5 psi is a good starting point. Just remember that the temp in the tires will change from day to night so the psi will go up and down.