GrMeyer

Temp has a big key in tuning the bike in.. All in all what is your jetting right now. and if is bogging off the start and wakes up then try turning the air screw out 1/4 turn on both carbs to see if that helps out. But you need to get the mains set first for jetting and then the needle set then the pilot. Because if you have the needle set for one main and go larger it will change how it acts for the needle because the hole is bigger so more fuel...And banshee's are known for the bog at low RPM's and it takes some time to learn on how to get that gone.

1 1/2 turns from fully in and I start with my needle in the middle....But for jetting you start with the mains and work down to pilot jet. so get the main right. then the needle, then the pilot. which you have the 27.5 already so you can just mess with the pilot air screw to get the bottom end RPM's tuned in...

Yeah man after getting the porting done it was great just breaking it in..I could tell a big diff. All in all after tearing it down my jetting was spot on. I guess I can tell just by the seat of the pants without doing plug chops... Anyone know if the Wiseco or Hotrod Cranks come trued and welded or is it something I need to send it off to have done

got mine off ebay

What is your jetting? and with the K&N are you running the lid or without the lid

umm if you still going to be running some of the lid I would start around 290-300 and work down

when was the last time you put new plugs in? And deff pull the carbs apart and clean them out.

Well I just got done tearing down the motor after about and hour of easy riding because I thought I messed up my trans..well turnes out that the main bearing on the crank is bad. turns out one of the stop keys broke off and somehow went in there and did some nice shaving in there. the top end is fine and the cases are fine. so all in all I guess i just need a new crank that is trued and welded this time...

my brother has them on his quads ill have to ask him what brand they are... if i remember right he got them off ebay so its prob just a china import but any stainless for the rear will work better/look better then the stock...

You can get it at any auto store...I try to get mine from Walmart. They always seem to have the best prices for any oils. I want to buy a 5qt motor oil form truck and auto zone wanted like $5 more then walmart. But sense I run Type F in my trans I just buy the cheap shit because I change it so often

I just cut off the little back part of the old air box that where the bottle mounts to....then I got a 3LED light and put it below the bottle as for my rear tail light...So all in all there are the two bolts and i still keeps the overflow/catch can in the stock place

umm are you running the lid or with out the lid? and porting will change the jetting...As will temp and elevation. so I always try to keep an eye on how my bike is running and always check the plugs...But im the guy that can feel how the bike is running just by riding it. and sense i live here in Phx i always jet for the morning part of the day because from 6am it will be 75 and by noon it will be 105. I just dont push my bike at all when it starts getting hot...

anyone know a way to mod the stock trans without just the normal little stuff like the shift star...as in beefing it up

foot pounds or newton meters?

alot of my buddies I run with us the 27.5 pilots with the T-5...did you change the air screw at all and did you open the intake at all? turn the airscrew in 1/4 turn on both carbs to see if that helps...IE turning them in will Rich'n the idle to 1/8 throttle

get the tallest tire you can...

Try this site http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Great on whats with what for Tuning

The only down side I can see is GAS because you will want to keep to WOT all the time

I like the Noss head...easy on and off to change out domes for compression. As for 200hp your bet is to put in a 1000cc motor and turbo it. And as for the bottom end you can mess with the air screw to lean or richen up the bottom end. I had my banshee great at idle to WOT.. take some time to tune the bike in to the weather but when you get there you will understand what needs to be done. all in all try turning the air screws out a 1/4 of a turn to lean it up and see if it helps... if not then go back in try with a 1/4 turn in.

my compression gauge i put it up to my air compresser and set the reg to different PSI to see if they match...easy way to see if your gauge is close or not

yeah your best bet is to get the book... little ins and outs you have to know from the book like tighting bolt order... and that you have to go from like 7.5 up to 10 to like 15 (dont remember) and what bolt you start with like the crank side and then the trans side...

you might be able to get away with new rings!!!! but you can also get a head that allows you to change domes to bring up the compress and the compression from 90 to 150 will make a big diff...but pull the head and look at the pistons...pull the jugs and mic out the jugs and pistons. someone should have spes on how much wear. and if you are in the ball park you should be able to put new rings on and go!!! if money is tight try the rings first and then if that doesn help you will need to bore over one and get new pistons to that bore. if money isnt a prob then send off the jugs to get ported and new pistons and you will be a raped ape

I know...I dont want to because it just got put back together.... and have another motor I have to tear down...Seems like it is a bad year for me and quads but the other one is a easy fix...had a bolt break off so i have to pull the head and jug and thats about it.. Just time

Yup axle spins because i had to get towed back to my truck. It will shift through all gears sitting still. When I drained the trans oil I didnt see any metal or shavings or peaces

well the clutch basket is still on and I can take and spin the crank with the trans in (N) but put it into gear and nothing!!!