GrMeyer

thats ok im fine with tusk.... I have ran one in my raptor with 52hp to the wheels for three dunes season and with trail riding. Just now pulling the motor out to put new rings on the piston and some more port work... So if it can hang on to riding the dog piss like that out of it then im pleased to use the shit of clutch. as for the banshee. only have 10hrs of ride time on it. And its not that hard to change out the clutch on the banshee. Might even move to a lockout after this clutch.

660 arms are diff

let it cool and on a cold start pull the rad cap...start it and if you see bubbles in the rad then you have a gasket leak...

all i can say is I put the tusk hd kit in and put a new cable on and shit...im going to have some bad ass arms after some rides

well if they are not ported then get them ported then have them turned...that way you get two birds with one stone...as for a top end everyone likes weisco...

PORTING all the way!!!

http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

place the tabs every 60deg apart starting at 12 and working your way around...So it turns out to be every other hole for the tabs...

while you have it off buy a cool head so you can up the compression with domes...

looks like a big spring for the front...if you get them you might have to get a softer one if he can take a spring off then there should be a #weight marking on the bottom.

my 660 raptor did it...it is warped clutch plates...I went way when I put a new clutch in...

how in the hell are you running that high of compression and on pump...at 155psi i go to 100LL. but then again im also in Phx Az and the highest pump we have here is 91.

What? the mains should be the same in both sides...and the pilots are smaller and require a flat head to get out... and they are the same for both sides... about 3/4's down the page is pics of where everything goes http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

I was going to ask the same questing because it seems i go through the cleaner fast then I do the oil... and i clean mine after every dune trip or every two-three woods riding. and I have 7 bikes and a rhino i have to clean... so this shit adds up!!!

im going to say a shit load better then because you dont have to change the studs

NICE!!!!

+1 and do a plug chop to check

and plus if they are rubber they will shrink and expand due to temps...so im guessing some glue!!!

Noss is a great head...I have had it for two years with no probs. http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm everything you need to help figure it out is on this site

if you want to try it out...go to ACE and build some out of rubber bushings

Cheap way to get a temp gauge on the bike http://www.dunereview.com/Modifications.htm

umm what filter set up are you running and your needing to up the pilot... and the mains for a starter.

i would say looking into some 28' or even 30s if you looking at doing some upgrades like porting down the road...

umm a builder should be able to help you out on what kind of rpm you will be in most of the time...most of the 4mil drag bikes i see have 35's but if your doing alot of low end to mid riding i would prob have to say 33's but 35's leave room for more upgrades

the haulers are the only way to go...both those tries are heavy....contact ORTires.com on Ebay and get some haulers... I have ran his tires for two season and my brother has had his for three season...had a paddle come off and he sent a new tire out free of charge.. all we had to do was send him a pic. http://stores.ebay.com/Ortires-com_W0QQssP...fsxQ3asstQQtZkm