mopar1rules

i would start a little fatter like 300-280 and then go down from there.

mofoka, you can modify the stock timing plate. click on the link, scroll down, and it will be question #56. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html

banshee1982, you should see if your shee wants more gas....checking plugs after wot for like 6 sec. you might have to bump up to 320 mains, but double check your plugs to know for sure. you can go here, to read up on modifying your stock timing plate. its question #56. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html did you shave your stock head .030"? believe me, its safe. what is the casting number on the top of your head?

yeah, i got fattys on mine and love 'em to death too.

yeah, it seperates the 2 small oil rings in the bottom groove of the piston....on 4 strokes that is.

...X2! :beer:

if i remember correctly, yamaha says that the maximum out of round a cylinder can be is .0004". you're much more than that midway up the cylinder, which is probably close to the bottom of your stroke. if it were me, i would get a fresh bore. if the out of round was like .001" to .0015", i would say just hone it, but .003" out of round is too much for my taste.

lunatic, you will need to know the piston crown angle and then i would assume go anywhere from 1 to 2 deg greater with the squish angle versus what your piston crown angle is.

so, skinny squish band widths make an engine more "peaky/pipey" and a wide squish band will make an engine's powerband more broad? also, how does a guy know what radius to put on, or make his hemisphere on the dome too? is there some common norms, or what?

i see what you are saying, but you wouldn't have to necessarily make the dome "deeper"....would you? couldn't you just keep the same dome depth, but then just widen/open up the diameter, where it meets the squish band? you know, the squish band width would get skinnier. that way the spark plug wouldn't stick into the dome any further. yeah, so i guess the radius of the hemisphere would be greater.

that's what i too was thinking about the .050" situation. i know that taking like .005 off a stock head (on head gasket surface i mean), can reduce the head cc volume by like .4 something. so taking .050" off (i know we are talking the squish band here), might get you into high comp trouble quickly, without taking a little more out of the hemisphere part of the dome, like 4stroker said. you also have pm.

well you probably are going to be like 1.5 deg greater on the squish band angle versus the angle from the piston crown edge to the piston top. piston angle is probably around like 12-14 deg. may i ask, why are you using blaster pistons? i don't know much about the stroker kits on banshees. i'm unsure of the cc size of the newly machined domes. if you have a burret, you can fill up the dome with engine oil and then know for sure the actual volume of the domes. it won't be the actual installed cc volume tho....remember that. i can machine the domes for you if needed. i'm a machinist and have access to the machines needed for the job. you just have to let me know how much you want off and where. let me know.

what elevation are you at? you got all that done to your bike and are only running 240 mains? sheesh, no wonder it blew up

i didn't mean to piss you off bud. you simply stated that you could machine this fellows head for "X" price and i posted that i could offer the same service for "Y" price. my price happened to be lower than yours, but i never meant to get into a bidding war, or to piss anyone off. if you want to do it for free, than by all means, go ahead. i'm just trying to help out another banshee fan like you were. you just wanted to make a few bucks for your labor too, like me.

lets keep the setups coming :biggrin:

a little piece of sand ain't going to plug up the main jet. it would have to be like a little stone that's like .030" in diameter. hard to plug up mains, especially the 350's or whatever he's using. he's either got a air leak and/or deto happening.

i can shave the head for you as well. i'll do $35 shipped to your door after work is done.

higher octane won't destroy your motor. depending on your altitude, you could safely run 22cc domes on 92 octane fuel. if you know you have some "good" quality 92 octane, you could run the 21cc domes. most people advance their timing 4 deg. it will wake up your bottom and midrange. you can mod your stock timing plate, or buy ones that are already adjustable.

shit justs happens i guess. did the piston skirt break off? if so, that would be from too much piston/cylinder clearance.

sounds like you are getting some totally shitty gas, cause 100 octane should be fine holding back a 160 comp motor from deto. i would back the timing off to +4 instead of the +6 that it says in your sig. your mains sound good. i'm going to be droping down to 350's from 360 in my shee. what's the needle clip position at? i just noticed that in your sig it says that you have k&n pods. go to like 350's-360's mains and try that.

if you measured 64.40, it means you are bored .020" over.

yes its fine if the black dot on the throttle slides, go past the glass window at wot. just make sure that when you give it enough throttle to center the black dot in the window on one carb, that the dot on the other carb is centered as well when holding the throttle at the same position. this will tell you the carbs are in sync. yeah, as stated before, if your jetting was fine before and now this, you have electrical issues.

shave it .030". its still plenty safe for 92 octane.

you will need to split the cases to get all the debris out and inspect the crank bearings. put new crank seals in and some 1194 on the case halves and torque back together. put new gaskets everywhere in the top end, new wisecos or pro-x pistons and rings, get a fresh overbore, jet it correctly, put back together with the bolts all torqued to spec and have fun.

water wetter is to be added to your coolant system. it can be used w/straight h2o or with 50/50 mix of water and anti-freeze. IMO....water wetter is junk. used it in my r1 bike and make no difference. engine ice is coolant all in itself.....meaning its not to be mixed with antifreeze or more water. the engine ice is already mixed properly from the manufacturer, so you just dump it into the empty coolant system and go. yeah, whoever is doing the work on your shee should just be shot. he doesn't know what he's talking about. what mods are all done to your shee? what is your elevation and what is your current jetting? i have quite a few mods done to my shee and it doesn't overheat ever. never has, never will. is your system bled properly? did the guy even put coolant back in it? lol