mopar1rules

good to hear you got the ports all chamfered. what kind of carb troubles you got?

no i hadn't yet. i will be soon, cause i'm going to be messing with the heads on my snowmobile here, withing a few weeks or so. building up a 780 big bore. should be fun :thumbsup: i'm drawing a blank right now....what's the F/P volume? since my cylinders are ported now, i have less comp than before. so, i want to mill like .010"-.015" off the stock head again, but cut the squish, so its like .045". what do you think?

am i sensing sarcasim? i have mine at .050" squish right now, and will be shaving another .010-.015" off the stock head, but then recutting the squish so its at .045". how come you call me the king of squish?

that's one thing that i always had in the back of my head too.

.....oh

when going to pods, you'll need to bump your pilots to 27.5.

what are you talking about getting 80 grit stones and doing it myself? the top end rebuild i was talking about? if so, i would do it myself. have done it 3 times before. i have the hones and everything, with all the different grit stones. i would even bore the cylinders myself, as i'm a machinist and have access to what i need. so, i even save money there. when i said the $350 that i saved will go towards a rebuild, i meant the pistons and gaskets.

i've got .030" milled off my head w/.050" squish and i still run premium....no problems. i'm going to mill another .01" off. i even have the timing at +4.

the uni-pods i believe are foam and if so, they would filter dirt better than your k&n's

throw in some 280's or like 300's then and try that

if you are very, very, careful. i used a vargus deburring tool, and very small hand file.

snope, i agree 100%. hey to all you "negative nancies" (that was funny snope), this year i ported my engine myself. i bought a race logic stage 3 template from snope and just followed the template ot a "t". i got some pics sent to me from another individual on here, so i had a better understanding of what needed to be done. i asked snope and some other fellows some questions and got some books, read the books, and had a very, very good understanding of what i was doing. you have to start and learn somewhere. i did just that. i took my time on the porting (11.5 hrs) and it turned out great. front end comes up without trying. :smile: i ported the engine with what's in the pics. you don't need to spend the $ to have someone else do it. i did it myself, learned something in the process, and will now for sure never have anyone else do it, cause i know i can. hey "negative nancies", with the $350 that i saved by doing my own porting, i can put towards a fresh top end (when the time comes) and it will be like i got it for free. :thumbsup:

changing your jetting will not make better use of the v-force 3's. having your engine ported will. that mod (porting) would compliment the reeds. the v-forces are more of a drag/dune setup.....so i'm told. if you had your engine ported w/dune/play port job, you would see the 2 mods go hand in hand and maybe see more of a difference then, when going from stock reed cages to the v-forces. my suggestion to you for your reeds, is to get some carbon tech petals, and bolt them up to your stock cages. you don't have enough mods, or heavy mods in my opinion, to need the v-forces. i was thinking the same.....aren't you a bit lean. even tho your in hot dallas, tx....i can't see you running a main smaller than 280 and i would think for sure that you would need 27.5 pilots too. hell if i were you, i probably would be at a 300-320 main and 27.5 pilots, w/needle on middle clip pos.

i would get the slp kit before the trinity kit. slp is great to deal with....trinity i've heard nothing but bad things.

i have no idea what pin you're talking about :shrug:

flotek does it too....he's also on this website. http://www.flotekperformance.com/services

2 thumbs up for the carbon techs

if you have to slowly roll on the throttle, that is telling me that its lean on the mains. the reason for the bog, when you give it a quick nail of the throttle is cause it gets such a charge of air, but not enough fuel quickly enough, so it bogs. but when you give it throttle easily, it can keep up to the incoming charge of air. just fatten up your mains to like 320 and see what happens. make sure the needle is in the middle position, or 1 clip position richer, and have pilots at 27.5. try that and report back. also, you said that the higher gears make it bog, well that's cause the higher gears load the engine more, and a loaded engine will want more fuel, but your lean mains aren't giving it the required amount needed.

leave the needle alone. so, you have the k&n filter w/powerlid? do you have stock pipes? what are all your mods?

yeah, try 320 or 300 mains and get rid of the reed spacers. they do nothing. i tried some on mine and it made mine break up on top end also. took reed spacers out and back to running like a champ.

....perfectly said.

i've never heard of a 380 kit. looking at my marshall distributing catolog here, if its bored .090" over than the cc's is 376. if its bored .100" over, than the cc's is 382. either way, you are at the engine of the cylinder life, as far as overbores go. 1 mishap with that motor and you will be needing to shop for some good used cylinders. most likely, it'll blow up on you (due to improper jetting) and you will be up shit creek with the cylinders. if its in good shape, a fair price would be around $3000.

what are the pro flow cans and pass threw cans? never heard of either.

that's a good idea.

for your setup, carbon tech petals on stock cages.