mopar1rules

steel sprockets will last longer hands down. steel is harder than aluminum....we all know that. a steel chain will win every war against an aluminum sprocket. throw in some sand and the sand will win against the aluminum sprocket too. i like the idea of the aluminum sprocket...less rotating mass, but the steel sprockets is what i suggest to use, especially in dirty riding conditions. i have a jt sprocket on my shee and the teeth are starting to go south already as well. probably only has like 20-30 hrs of runtime on it. i don't ride in sand or anything. i ride on the back roads and hay fields. i think the grade of the steel used on the sprockets aint worth a shit. rubberneck, i guess the only thing i can suggest, especially if you have double checked the alignment, is maybe have a machine shop or sprocket specialties make you one out of like a a2 or s8 tool steel or something. maybe even 4140 hardened. i'm not sure what the current steel sprockets are made of, but it sure seems like some shitty hot rolled garbage or like soft mild 1018 carbon steel.

here's a pic of the plugs on my shee, at wot. what do you guys think? i think i'm perfect at these temps (75*feren). if it gets down to like 50-60 degrees, i think i will go up one on the mains.

that's why its such a bitch to start. there'e no comp left to that motor. even though you are checking it cold, you should still pull 110-115lbs+.

i have a k&n filter. right now its sitting in a cardboard box in the corner of the garage. that's how well i like it.

actually start with some 280's and see what ya get.

exactly, that nicasil plating is sooo damn hard, that they hardly wear. the aluminum piston skirt will for sure wear out b4 the nicasil does. if there is no cylinder wall damage, i wouldn't worry about it. if you are still set on doing it, i would send it to millenium tech in plymouth, wisconsin. for my snowmobile cylinders, its $235 each, so i don't know how they told you $350. was that for the 2 cylinders? are you talking to kurt koppelman?

was this engine rebuilt recently, or does it have lots of run time on it? if you just rebuilt it, how good was the bore? was it a out of round? was it honed? if so, with a shitty ball hone? what oil do you run? i use amsoil dominator. you said you heat cycled it 3 times. i wouldn't worry about heat cyclying it. with mine, i just let it idle and warm up good and then just giver hell down the road. did that right after the fresh rebuild and never had a bit of blow by on mine. tore the top end down to confirm this. only reason i tore the top end down, was to clean up the ports a little. engine was still fine. you don't want to be dicking around during breakin. you want to get the rings seated, b4 the crosshatch is worn off and the cylinder walls are glazed. another reason i asked if your cylinders were honed, is cause if they weren't and they were glazed, the new rings wouldn't of seated correctly, giving you the blow by that you are experiencing now.

yeah, i just got done from tracing the wires from the main switch housing and sprayed clean the big white wire connection, that comes from the main switch housing and took off the safety wire thing for the parking brake. also, the ignition key switch doesn't work, cause the previous owner put a scotch lock in the wiring. i just got done trying it out and it seems to be working fine. thanks again.

hey, my banshee will run fine, as long as you don't turn the bars to the left. if you turn the bars all the way to the right, its fine. if you turn the bars all the way to the left it dies out. what's going on. it sounds electrical and that's not one of my strong points. does anyone know what it is or could be?

try 260 mains, stock needles in stock position, stock pilots for now, and just play w/air screws. if the low end is lean, get some 27.5 pilots, and play w/air screws again. i would think the 260's will be fine for you. i don't think you will be having to go up as high as 280 mains.

if it were me, i would run the stock box w/lid removed. you can have a little better airflow w/pod filters, but they get soo dirty, soo damn quick. they also like to suck water in easier, cause they are just right there in the open. the stock box w/lid removed will help keep mud and water out.

bones, i would just do a plug reading at wot, to determine if the jetting is still ok. if you have to fatten things up, it probably is like only 1 size on the mains. i think its funny that k&n says that no rejetting is necessary with their filter. ok, makes a guy start to think this....what would make a guy have to rejet/go richer after adding a higher flow filter? the increased amount of air that's what. well, if k&n doesn't say that you have to fatten things up, are you really getting better flow and increased amounts of air to your engine with a k&n filter than?

i agree. shave it .020" to .030" and call it a day.

i got a bad crank that i could have repaired and then sell to you. how much are you looking to pay?

....improper breakin. ....shitty oil used.

try to find snopczynski on here. he's very knowledgable with the 2 into 1 thing. here ya go: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showuser=20806

i wouldn't worry about getting a different cdi box. just pick up an adjustable timing plate or modify your stock one, so you can advance it +4 degrees. you said you want to stick with pump gas, then i wouldn't run anything smaller than 22cc. you can also just have your stock head shaved and it will give you some bang for little buck. also, i can shave the head and modify your stock timing plate for you. you said you do mostly trail riding, so i would go with either fmf fattys or pro circuits and get some carbon tech reed petals for your stock cages. do you see mud and water while trail riding? how bout sand? i need to know the answers to this to be able to tell you what airbox/filter setup to run.

yamaha paints the cylinders inside and out. installing the tors removal kit incorrectly, won't make it draw more fuel. also, you can run it will either plug wire on either plug. it doesn't matter.

here's what i found @ nossmachine.com : Sea Level 1000' 2000' 3000' 4000' 5000' 18cc 197 178 171 170 165 145 19cc 183 167 160 158 152 137 20cc 169 156 149 146 140 129 21cc 156 145 138 134 128 121 stock 130 125 118 112 106 100

...yep, leave it to a fu#$in china part to f#$k over a good americans vacation! i HATE that country!!

no that doesn't sound high. sounds just about right. actually, sounds perfect.

need to know the type of riding that you do.....trail riding, mx racing, etc.

take them 30 pilots out and put the 27.5 pilots in.

throw in some 27.5 pilots and maybe even some 240 mains.....depending on temps. try out and report back to us.

no