mopar1rules

you should never post again, because everytime you post, you think you know what you're talking about and are always so negative. not to mention you only post stupid shit.

wow...those are pretty big and it looks like you have them on top and bottom?

klement, please send a buddy my way next time.

so it ran good w/the 240's for a while and then fouled your plugs? if so, then no need to jump up to 250 mains.

dajogejr, just curious how more oil = more hp. doesn't excessive oil, create excessive heat? and wouldn't a synthetic oil @ 50:1, make more power than a synthetic or conventional oil @ 32:1, cause there is less oil for drag/friction, and synthetic oil is slipperier (less is needed to provide same lubrication as a conventional oil), so there should be less friction, so theoretically it should rev quicker and make more hp. also, less oil to try and burn. i think its easier to burn/ignite gas than oil. i'm not trying to be a smartass or something, just want to know how more oil = more hp....i'm always up for learning something new. :smile:

guys, i'm going to say that its rich on oil, but lean on gas. i'm not seeing any piston wash, on the piston's crown, by the transfer or exhaust areas. if its rich on gas, then you would have some "clean" patches washed off those areas on the piston crown. the crown is being cooled enough from the fuel and doesn't have the chance to get hot and to burn/carbonize the oil to it. i'd say he's a little on the hairy edge. i know my shee is about 1 main jet size fat, and i have no carbon buildup what so ever on my piston crowns or domes like him (i run 50:1 mix). just some oily mixture, with piston wash on piston crown by the transfer and exhaust ports. 4stroker, what oil/gas ratio are you currently using and what oil brand are you using? just curious.

what are your riding temps? you could start off w/like 310 mains and work your way down if needed. try 27.5 pilots at 2 turns out w/air screws and stock needle in stock position. try that and report back.

what are your air screws at? set them to like 1-1/2 turns out from closed. leave needle at stock pos (clip in middle groove). and try those 240 or 250 mains.

now that i think of it, my ski-doo rev snowmobile has them stock too. that's getting ported to, for this years snow season, along w/my 780 big bore yamaha sx viper. i finished porting my buddies viper 2 weeks ago, and that thing is becoming pretty killer.

...i'd really appreciate it. get the misses a rhino...they go thru everything. i love them things. :smile:

i know what you mean.

i took my time.....11.5 hrs to be exact. patience = good outcome.

thank you dajogejr. exactly, kevin and all the other guys had to start somewhere too. they were once where i am now. someone finally gave them the oportunity to port their cylinders, then loved the outcome, then told their buddies, and it all grew from there for them. well dajogejr, when you get a spare set of cylinders, please give me a chance. the fellow who started this post, wants his shee ported for more power. so, i thought i'd post to help out. i can help his banshee breathe. :biggrin:

i don't remember. i know the exhaust got raised 1mm. if you know what stock is, you can figure it from there. i didn't touch the transfers yet on mine (meaning port windows, i did thin the runner bridge at the bottom for better flow into the transfer runners)....that's to come this spring. this fellow looking for a port job, will be satisfied enough and have a big enough smile on his face with the race logic stage 3 port job. i know i was right off the bat. 40t in back and 14t up front and front end comes up w/o trying in 1st-3rd.

that's because no one gives me the chance....its always kevin herr, passion, etc.

if you only have a k&n filter for mods, you are way rich, even at the colder winter temps, w/280 main jets. you will be better off w/240 mains. those choke tubes and throttle slides, will get a newbie every time....lol.

most people think that the polished intake ports, increase power, but they don't atomize the fuel properly. the carb doesn't atomize the fuel near enough. as the fuel/air mixture flows thru the ports, it catches all those little bumps (from bead blasting and are very, very, very small), the fuel gets atomized more. than the air/fuel mixture, gets inside the cylinder, and gets mixed in the turbulance created by the squish band, when the piston gets to top/dead center. the new air/fuel mixture also gets mixed w/old exhaust gas. the stuff that the cylinder didn't get expelled of.

here another one...

i'm going to try and post a couple of the pics here. i see its going to be a pita to post the pics, cause i can only get one picture per post. you can see that my exhaust port is nice ane even...no CHINA!

yeh, i don't say i can do something if i can't. i have pics of my port job on my shee if you would like to see them. i know i can do it....i've done it before. not to mention i port snowmobile cylinders....not just a clean up of casting flaws, but truly opening up the auxillary exhaust ports and opening up/reshaping the main exhaust port.

2001Stroker, you usually don't want any of the intake ports, or transfer ports polished. the fuel won't properly atomize and you will be down on power. its acutally more beneficial to have the ports bead blasted. that's smooth enough and then the fuel will atomize. the exhaust port is the one you want really smooth. you could just sand it with like 120-220 grit and that should be good enough. you can get it really smoooth, if you want. that would cut down on the chance for oil/carbon to stick. slobanshee, i have my cylinders bored .040" over w/a stage 3 race logic port job. the intakes were opened up big time (lowered/raised) and the exhaust port was widened/raised/reshaped. do you think it would be beneficial w/my type of port job? i wonder why the boost ports hurt your port work? i can't see how they should/could hurt ones top end.

i can give/do "real" port jobs. just because my name isn't kevin herr or fast racing, etc, doesn't mean i can't/do quality work. as a matter of fact, i prefer the exhaust port shape from race logic, over kevin herr's. i was just trying to help this fellow out.

i'm 99% sure they will work.

i ain't doing it for $170 guys.

slobanshee, did you ever get the chance to play w/the boost ports on your personal engine yet?