mopar1rules

if you need main jets, i have some.

run the b8es plugs and drop down your mains 1 size on those warmer days. leave pilots alone, leave needles and clip position alone, and you could probably leave the air screws alone, when going from a warm day to a cold day. 32:1 oil ratio is fine. if it were me, i wouldn't run the ratio that rich, just a waste of oil. plenty of lubrication @ 50:1 ratio, with good quality synthetic oil like mobil 1.

i'd try 280 mains

here ya go 280-300 mains as stated, stock needles w/clip in middle position, stock pilots (27.5 are too big!!), and 2 turns out on air screws.

if your running forged wisecos, then have swain tech put some tbc coating on the domes too. it stops the piston from expanding soo much, so you can run a tighter piston/cylinder clearance.

i'm figuring that, but i just wanted to start fat/safe, and let him work his way down :smile:

i heard that the namura pistons are cheap and tend to crack. just passing on what i have heard. i personally haven't ran them, so i don't know for sure. i do know that i personally will stick to wisecos, pro-x, and wsm pistons.

well there's a couple things that you didn't specify, that would be good to know....how much of timing advance? how much shaved off the head? what's your riding elevation? what are your riding temps? what kind of port job.....mx, trail/woods, drag, dune, what? here's what you could try starting off with, (giving an estimate, cause i don't know your elevation/temps)....here ya go, try 360 to 380 mains, stock needles in stock position, 27.5 pilots, and 1-1/2 turns on air screws.

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ok, i'm for sure not doing it. i was just a little stubborn at first with believing that it isn't worth it, but now it sunk in. :smile: thanks guys for the info.

you would think that if herr jugs racing does it, that it does work and would be worth the effort and time.

...exactly. i always roll my eyes when people say that the pilot doesn't flow anymore past 1/4 throttle. how doesn't it. does a little leprocon (i know its spelt wrong:) run inside the pilot circuit and build a dam inside to stop the fuel flow :biggrin: fuel is being drawn from the pilot jet at all times. i would think that it flows more fuel, the more you give it throttle. think of the small hole in the jet as a small straw. you can suck your captin 'n coke up through those small straws more easily than those larger 1/4" diameter ones at mc donalds. now, that's why at idle to 1/4" throttle, the small amount of airflow that comes through the carbs, is all that is needed to successfully draw the fuel out through the jets and why changing the pilot jet has the most effect on the idle to 1/4 throttle range. also, cause its on the engine side of the throttle slide. fuel can't quite suck the fuel up through the main jet and nozzle yet, when approx at 1/4" throttle. as the throttle is opened more, there is more airflow coming through, and now the fuel is going to be able to get sucked up through the nozzles and main. yeah, the pilot jet's hole is very small compared to the main jet, so the pilot jet has little to no effect on plug color and fuel demands at wot. the pilot is still flowing, but you would have to change out mains to get the proper fuel amount and plug color at wot. i always tuned my mains and then pilots. i've never really needed to mess with the needles on anything.

maybe wana try like starting with 330-340 mains.

i'm pretty sure it would become leaner, if the reed spacers are removed. when i put reed spacers on my shee, i noticed it got real rich on top end. think about it, putting reed spacers on, pulls the reed assemblies out of the intake more, thus opening up the boost port more, letting more air/fuel get up into the cylinder. so, when you take the reed spacers out, the reed assemblies are going to move into the intakes that much more, and start to block off the boost port, thus letting less air/fuel in through that port.

yeah, i was just be a little sarcastic with the 10,000 feet remark :smile:

so, you were able to get everything done to every port with just the flexible shaft?

how's the book called "the high performance two-stroke engine"? i just ordered one and don't want to be dissapointed :biggrin:

that to, but i doubt he's 10,000 feet above sea level

what has everyone had to go up in main sizes after they had their shee ported? this would give me a better feeling with starting at 2 sizes up on the mains, with leaving everything else the same.

what pilots do you have in now....30's? if i were you, i would try 27.5 pilots, 340 mains, and stock needles w/clip in middle position. set air screws at 2 turns out.

did you give it a complete compression check on a good reliable tester? if you did, yes 105 is low. you would need to re-ring at minimum, if the cylinder walls look ok. maybe have to replace pistons to, if the skirts are worn beyond the acceptable limit. if cylinder walls have scoring going on, which the scratches are deep enough to catch your fingernail, then you will need to overbore.

i would like to do the same thing as you. but good luck on anyone giving you specs on a particular port job. it seems to be top secret info to many.

whooooo shit, how many axis is that? how the hell do you get into the ports with that thing?

thanks. its ok if you're still busy. my top end is tore back down right now anyhow, cause the pos gaskets didn't seal.

what's you elevation and riding temps. i'll get you ballparked without the pos dynojet kit.