mopar1rules

then the bottom end/choke circuit is rich. that's why you don't need to choke it to start. the reeds must have richened your bottom end up a tad. try turning the air screws out some and see what happens. what are your pilots at? did it do any of this even a little bit, before the addition of reeds and coolhead?

like snope said, it depends on current base gasket thickness. for example, lets say you have a current squish of .073" and you want to see .050" squish. you will need to have a base gasket that's .023" THINNER than the current base gasket used. if its a stock head, you can easily mill .023" off and be safe.....if its a dome insert style head, you will need to change base gaskets, but you will also lower the rpm that the engine makes peak power at. if a guy didn't want to drop the rpm of peak power, he/she would need the exhaust port, transfers and boost ports raised that same amount that the cylinders were dropped down from the thinner gasket......i believe. guys, correct me if i'm wrong.

the slide cutaway is the angle cutout on the bottom of the throttle slide. the throttle slide is the barrel looking thing, that slides up and down in your carb when throttle is pulled or let go. it has the angular cutout on it at the bottom of it. that angular cutout has to face the airbox. check for it asap and report back. here's a link to a pic of the throttle slide and the cutout....notice on the left of the slide at the bottom, there is that angular cutaway that i was talking about. that has to face the airbox, when the slide is installed in the carb. there is also a right and left slide tho. http://www.dansmc.com/slide1.jpg

very true....i am making the assumption that he's around sea level, so i like to set him/people up with a safe/rich suggestion than a leaner one that may work. gives the tuner a chance to fine tune it to his area and not blow things up right away :smile:

oops, i had a brain fart. i thought he said 10-15 minutes before it comes down. i don't know how i comprehended that tho. its been one of those days:)

i'm over in the green bay area. what pipes you got on that sxr motor? those motors are built to last. actually, if you want a srx motor, my bro has a complete engine, with the wiring harness, cdi, carbs, etc. motor is a 2000 and only has like 700 or 800 miles on it. can you send me pics of the atv that has the sxr motor in it? [email protected]

sounds kinda like an air leak or something. usually when cold if you have an airleak, it will want to idle low, cause its too lean for the cold engine. mine wouldn't hold a steady idle and would need all kinds of choke to stay going. i would try 27.5 pilots and check for air leaks. and check to see if the choke is on a little bit or something. now that i think of it, i remember mine idling higher, when the choke was on a little.

i have 340 mains in my stage 3 ported shee. the mods are in my sig. i would throw in some 350's for now. put pilots at 27.5 if not already, and leave the needle in stock position. try that and report back. 270's are waaaay lean.

...here's a video of a banshee w/snowmobile engine....just scan it to like 7/8 of the way thru video.

you drop a 700 yamaha srx motor (snowmobile engine), into a banshee and i can gaurantee that you will be smoking anything out there. the '00-'02 700 srx motors, were 145 hp stock. those engines came on a snowmobile that weighs like 585 wet, and can still power the machine to 115+mph! in a light banshee, that thing would be just insano. you probably wouldn't keep the front end down:) and since its a 2-stroke, it would be way lighter than a cycle engine, not to mention the srx motor has power valves. hey ChippewaTSI94, where are you from?

does anybody know if the 1mc (90 deg) handpiece from cc specialties, will work on this motor from harbor freight? i need something quick and cheap, to port 2 snowmobile engines. i would love to buy the foredom motor, but don't have enough cash. the 1mc handpiece is expensive enough. i need to be able to get at the auxillary exhaust ports from the inside of the bore. that's why i need the 90 deg handpiece unit. here's the link to the harbor freight unit.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=40432

your 4-stroke will get better mileage. part of the fuel/air mixture, goes right out the exhaust port and never gets burned up during combustion. so, another reason our shees are crop dusters. :biggrin:

to view my tools used, go to here and scroll halfway down approx. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...p;hl=race+logic

yep....exactly. i'm lucky to get 1hr on the tank, especially if hard on the throttle.

i used the stage 3 template from race logic and loved the outcome. front end comes right up w/o trying. mods on my shee are in my sig. be prepared to spend like 10-12hrs on the port job. if you guys pm me your email address, i will send a video of my shee pulling the front end up.

you could even look into fmf fattys or pro circuits. you could get your stock head shaved .030". you could get a port job. you could get a stroker. you can do whatever you funds will allow. what do you want to spend?

oh, i got it. you were talking the only tube as being the main fuel tube. the other tube then that yours was missing, was the choke tube. yeah, it would start/run like shit w/that missing...lol.

for sure you need to stick that 27.5 pilot in. try 320-330 mains too. also, you said "When I do put the head on, the timing will be advanced (+4 roughly) to keep me from detonating." you have it backwards...increasing the timing with higher compression, would double the chance of detonation. 21cc domes should still be fine on 93 octane, but if you increase the timing to +4, than you will need a blend of race gas and 93, to keep from detonating.

mine was being a bitch at idle too. was an airleak, right where the boost bottle sticks into the intake boot. 2-stroke_couch, what other tube are you talking about? there is only one tube that connects the 2 carbs.

cheap shitty oils will smoke more than the more expensive higher quality synthetic oils. you're also running it @ 32:1. IMO....get some amsoil, or other quality synthetic oil, and run it at no richer than 40:1. my amsoil @ 40:1 or 50:1, hardly smokes and smells good...IMO. as far as fuel mileage, i don't really know how long a stock jetted shee should last, but my modded shee really sucks fuel. seems like the whole tank is gone in 1hr of riding, than again, mines jetted like 14 sizes up from stock....lol. i just thought of something, since it sat for a long time and you said it wastes gas, how is the condition of the rubber tip on the needles? does it piss alot out of the overflow?

i bought a set of race logic stage 3 templates from snope, this summer. it was my first banshee port job. i took my time (11.5 hrs) and it turned out great. made a big difference. stroooong midrange and front end comes up without trying. next, i'll be opening up the transfers. my bro had the die grinders and such needed, so i only had to spend like $40 on bits. i was very happy with the templates and i'm now thinking about buying 2 more templates for my snowmobiles:) worth the $90 in my book. you can always use them more than once. hell, have your buddy pay for the templates, let him port his motor, then borrow his tools/templates and port your own banshee. it will only cost you 10-12 hrs of your time. big deal....you will have a big grin when you nail the throttle. oh yeah, mods are in my sig.

you can't just look at the small picture, which is the $ that he will spend on tools and books to port his banshee. that's what a lot of the people on here seem to do....is look at the small pic. if he spends all that $ to do one motor, then yeah, maybe not the best investment. but, you need to look at he big picture, which is, if he buys the tools and books, and learns from his first banshee port job, then it will save him $ down the road, because he will already have the tools/knowledge to do more porting on more engines. hell, he can even port his buddies motors for $, which would pay up for the cost of tools/books. the cost of the tools/books would also, get payed up, for what you saved on the port jobs, by doing it yourself. i ported my banshee this summer. i used a race logic stage 3 template. worked great. i took my time (11.5 hrs), and bought some 6in long carbide bits. they were 3/8" cylindrical round end, both single cut and double cut. i also made my own extension for sanding the exhaust port. i also used some short dremel style bits. i ended up using my bros 1/4" straight die grinder, and little pencil die grinder. i'll try to find the pic of my tooling used.

you want to get your head milled .003"? .003" is the thickness of a hair on your head. if your looking for more compression, .003" aint a pinch of shit. you need to have .030" milled off the stocker to get anywhere.

mine does the same thing....you need to rev up and clutch the bitch to take off. mines ported tho, and i already have 27.5's, so i'm going to go up to 30's. for you tho, go to at least 27.5's, needle clip postion stock w/stock needle, and run like 320-330 mains.

i would say 320's to 340's, depending on temps.