mopar1rules

klemet banshee, i sent you a pm.

Ryanman05, i can give your cylinders a stage 3 port (dune/play), as i have the race logic template. let me know.

i ported my banshee myself, using race logic template. cost me a template and a few carbide bits. my bro already had the die grinders, so i just used those. i got my shee ported for less than you Sanie21.....lol.

a buddy of mine had the wristpin bearing on his shee, totally shatter. i believe it was a wiseco. this was 2 yrs ago. i think the current wiseco wristpin bearings are made in tiawan. i think their wristpins are too. never hear it happening much, but it does happen. i just heard from a local motorsports shop, that they won't be recommending pro-x pistons anymore, cause of 3 pistons failures on dirtbikes within 1 weeks time. what some junk now a days. everything is turning into china shit quality.

i am thinking about buying some 2-stroke tuning software. anyone have the TSR stuff? i was thinking of the stuff from BiMotion too. http://www.tsrsoftware.com/ http://www.bimotion.se/ what are your opinions people? any input appreciated.

i'm looking at running or making a specific plug. i just wanted to see if others agreed w/what my book was saying, and if they had some ideas/info to spread alone, about head profiles and such.

what would this give a guy...more bottom end power? my buddies 19cc dome for his pro design head, looks kinda like this. it doesn't look like a true radius.

now snop....its got to be worth the time to learn how/what to mod on the head, to make our shees faster....lol. remember those fellows, that said its not worth porting our engines ourselves? well, you and i both know that it was worth it. look at how much faster our shees are, and what more we learned from that. i don't mind investing the time. i would just like a few pointers on head modding.

that's what i figured, but i think the book wants you to bring the spark plug closer to the piston crown by bringing the entire "dome" profile down towards the piston crown. if a guy just ran the projected tip spark plug, wouldn't you have the threaded end of the spark plug, sticking way down into the dome? then, wouldn't the fuel mixture thats being stuffed up into the "dome" of the head, collide into the side (threads) of the spark plug? if the end of the spark plug ends flush with the top of the dome, then the fuel mixture that's being compressed/stuffed up into the dome, would sweep right into the electrode (instead of the side of the plug or threads), where it would be burned. do you know what i'm trying to say?

josh, i'm not looking into running a different plug, as i have no issues what so ever with the b8es plugs. i'm looking for any info on the software and or/tips or tricks on coming up with head profiles and of things to keep in mind/know about head mods etc. bigred, i went to your photobucket link, and your shee sounds killer. what pipes are those and what did you do to the heads?

i am thinking about buying some 2-stroke tuning software. anyone have the TSR stuff? i was thinking of the stuff from BiMotion too. http://www.tsrsoftware.com/ http://www.bimotion.se/

i was reading thru my "two-stroke performance tuning" book, by graham bell...and in the chapter on cylinder heads, it says that you want the "dome" of the head, to be as small as possible and to have the spark plug as close to the piston crown as possible. by keeping the "dome" of the head as small as possible, it exposes a smaller portion of the flamefront to the piston's crown, versus if the "dome" was larger...so, with a small "dome", it keeps the piston cooler. now he says the reason for the spark plug being centrally located in the head and as close to the piston crown as possible, it helps the squish band head from deto, because the time for the flamefront to reach the end gases, that are on the cylinder's outter edge, is reduced to a minimum and the end gases don't have the time to heat up and spontaniously ignite/deto. the subject about keeping the "dome" as small as possible, to keep the piston crown as cool as possible, wouldn't that be more oriented towards an air cooled engine than a liquid cooled engine? also, wouldn't having the spark plug as close to the piston's crown as possible, create a hot spot in the center of the piston crown? would you have to drop a heat range on the spark plug then? maybe this topic can turn into a sticky or something, for us tuners to look back on.

broke in my shee w/amsoil dominator and had no issues w/the rings sealing.

clean up low end burble, give better throttle response, equalize pressure between the 2 cylinders.

i run amsoil dominator in my shee @ 50:1 w/no issues. 20:1 is way overkill. no need to be richer than 40:1.....IMO.

i have no idea how you don't need the 27.5 pilots. what is the riding temps there right now? i would also think that you might need like 320 mains.

if i remember right, the dynojet needles are fat like the vitos needles. just put the clip in the middle position, with NO additional washers and try that. otherwise, just throw your stock needles in, with the clip in the middle position as well, as your modded shee doesn't require the different needles....IMO.

i'm keeping my eyes peeled for that honing head, but haven't come across anything yet.

i'd be willing to bet that you get 1194 instead of the 1211 as shown.

nope, totally got it. thanks for the info. :thumbsup:

...lol...that's what i was thinking. i was going to just keep quiet, but then i couldn't hold it in any longer.....lol. :biggrin: ...hopefully this guy can do my porting and head work too....lol :biggrin: yeppers.

replace them every time the cases are split, or one becomes leaky. if you put in new crank seals...are they in the right way?

i'd like to hear what you have to say there deckheight..... :smile: i mean .02 :biggrin:

i use the threebond 1104, which is now called 1194...its only $6, versus the $20 for the threebond 1211 :smile:

start it up and let it idle to get up to temp. then give it hell. don't be afraid of going wide open. just don't hold it there very long.....like 3-4 sec. basically, just drive it like your going to normally drive it. no need to let it sit and rev the piss outta it, cause you need a load on the machine to seat the rings. this topic should just be a sticky or something, as it gets brought up way too much on here.