mopar1rules

i was wondering if you have the float bowl with the little jet, on the carb with the choke lever. but you said that is starts in like 3-5 kicks, so i'm assuming you do.

i am going to be porting my banshee with a race logic stage 3 template. i was just curious how much it will affect my jetting. mine was jetted perfect at 75 deg with 340 mains, stock needles, middle clip position, stock pilots, and around 2 to 2-1/4 turns on the air screws. how much more will my jetting need to be fattened up....2 on the mains?

i tore the top end back down yesterday and noticed the head gasket wasn't sealing either. there was coolant between the head gasket and head. i also noticed it was wet and green at the bottom of the clutch side cylinder. i know people said if it gets wet there with coolant, that the rubber plugs on the bottom of the cylinder are junk. well, it just had brand new ones put in both cylinders, just to be safe. i think i'm going to be putting some right stuff on them, before i reinstall the top end. i also, noticed that the mag side intake boot, is now torn on the bottom side. i also noticed that on my intake boots, the little rib thats suppose to seal up against the reed assembly itself, is not sticking up above the rest of the rubber intake boots mating surface. so, it will never act as a seal. no wonder they leak. i think i'm going to order new intake boots, and order all yamaha gaskets this time, as this moose kit bit me in the ass this time around.

that's very good to know.

i see what you are saying jharader. thanks for the links BellicoseBanshee.

it takes some time to get some color to take form on brand new plugs. like 20 miles. you need to do a plug chop. search plug chop and you will get all the needed info. here: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

anyone know something?

i'll tear down and do a leak down test tomorrow. thanks guys for all the input so far.

like the orange high temp stuff?

whooops...my bad :smile:

the only thing to polish is the exhaust port. you want some roughness to the intake and transfer ports to help atomize the fuel mixture, so don't go polishing them.

i just got done putting my engine back together (it was apart for case porting) and now it has a big air leak. at least some of the air leak is coming from both reeds, hole where boost bottle plugs into rubber intake boot, and possibly the cylinder base gaskets. i sprayed starting fluid to confirm this. the crankcase seems to be ok. couldn't get it to rev up when spraying along the seam line. maybe the base gaskets aren't leaking, and that the leak by the reed block is sucking up the fumes, before it gets to the cylinder base gasket. i put anerobic gasket sealer on the base gaskets, so i would think that they would be sealing fine. i didn't put any on the reed gaskets, so maybe its just those? what do you guys think? what do you think i should do, for a greater chance of having these gaskets seal in the future? they were all brand new gaskets (moose racing brand from parts unlimited) and torqued down to the specs in the service manual.

is there any benifit to modding the pistons on a banshee? i am using pro-x cast pistons and was wondering if it would be helpful to open up the intake ports on the sides of the piston? either wider, or taller, or both? what about cutting the skirts some, so the flow isn't so blocked to the transfers.....or isn't it (skirt cutting) needed?

what's the best/easiest way to polish the exhaust port?

can someone post some pics of the tools they use for porting? i'm tosing up the idea of doing my own porting with a race logic stage 2 template, and would like to see some pics of the tools you guys have used to do your own porting. anyone have some good pic shots of their own port work too? how about even a used stage 2 template that someone would like to sell?

i'm looking for a good condition race logic stage 2 banshee porting template. anyone have one? please pm me.

yeah, send as many pics as you want to [email protected]

i never take it easy on my engines during breakin. just let 'em warm up real good and then drive it like i stole it. never had one problem doing this. drive it during breakin, the way you're going to drive it normally. i would drive mine through hell for like 10 min and then give a 15-20 min break. then go back out and do it again. repeating this like 4-5 times. i had no blowby on my pistons, breaking in my engine this way. i also ran 48:1 and amsoil dominator at the time of breakin.

yeah, i never noticed a loss on top end either.

exactly what i was thinking.

as others have stated, you could reuse it....if its in good condition. if you're in a pinch, you could spray some permatex high tack and reuse it. i would suggest getting a new one, if you can wait for it to come.

why would having the timing advanced +4, hurt you on top end?

i just got done shaving another .015". now a total of .030" off the head. i'll see how the shee cranks now.

nice pics. i'm still debating while the engine is apart here. to me its a toss up.

ok, cool. thanks guys.