bansheesandrider

Like I said, here comes the guys with the TORS replys. The TORS system is a seperate system from the park brake rev limiter. Bikes that are 96 and older only had the TORS system and it is a stand alone system with its own control box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil. Bikes that are 97 and newer have the stand alone TORS system AND the PB rev limiter that is built into the CDI box. The PB rev limiter will cause problems because the plunger in the switch can stick even if the PB is released, or if the wire shorts to ground. The rev limiter works by intermittently cutting out spark whenever the wire is grounded. The TORS works by cutting out the spark altogether when it senses that the thumb throttle is in the idle position AND the carb slides are not in the idle position. Therefore a TORS problem will usually keep the bike from running at all, while a PB rev limiter problem will cause the bike to run crappy. I do recomend removing both items fom the bike, because the PB rev limiter can cause the problem you are having and the TORS can fail in the middle of nowhere. To remove the PB rev limiter, cut the wire in the bike harness at the CDI plug, on the early bikes it was a green/yellow wire, it may have changed on the later bikes. Make sure you cut it at the CDI plug on the bike side of the connector, not on the CDI box side of the connector, that way the connector will keep the wire from grounding out. To disable the TORS system, unplug the wire at the top of each carb, at the thumb throttle, and at the control box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil. To remove it properly, you will need a TORS eliminator kit, it will have new carb tops, a new throttle cable and new idle screws that you will neeed to drill and tap the carbs for. It will clean thngs up on the bike and make maintence easier.

I bet a 27.5 pilot would be about right, I also think your main jet is to big. Most jet kits are a rip off, because they are the jets that work at the elevation and riding area of the vendor and don't take into account antwhere else.

There are always people around even if you don't see them. The tree hugger types are out in the woods all the time and you won't see them, but they will HEAR you and start pushing for land closures, unles of course you are on land that you own. The noise can sometimes travel for miles, depending on the terrain and piss of people that you had no idea could hear you. AND THE PEOPLE THAT ARE OUT THERE ARE PROBABLY THERE FOR THE PEACE AND QUIET, so you will really make them mad. Also, if I was your dad, I would not want to listen to your loud bike , so I would probably take you riding less. Don't get me wrong, I like a good preforming pipe, but you don't have to be loud to make power. As I said before, I have seen some loud bikes get their ass KICKED by quiet bikes.

I would recomend getting a set of Cascade CSFX silencers and if you want to be stealth, then paint them black. They are very quiet and they make them to fit most of the popular pipes. When I was sound checked at the Oregon Dunes after I put mine on, I was only 88db.

Definitely sounds like a fuel problem. If you have a plugged pilot or main jet, it will idle just fine on 2 cylinders, but when you rev it up, the side with thr plugged jet will quit running. Clean your carb, keeping the float bowls on the correct carb, they are different from left side to right side, make sure the choke tube is installed between the carbs and properly sync your carbs.

Did you have the park brake set when it was doing this? Banshees that are 97 models or newer have a rev limiter tied to the park brake that is supposed to keep you from riding the bike with the park brake set. There will probably be a lot of guys here telling you it is a TORS problem, but usually if you have a TORS problem the bike won't run at all. Hope this helps.

The problem I have with Amsoil is finding a dealer, they go out of business to often around me. I run the Klotz R50 oil at 40:1 for my premix, it burns clean and ny bottom end always has a good coat of oil on the crank and bearings when I open it up for maintence. I use the Klotz Flex Drive 30(part number KL506) in my ATVs for the tranny, and have never had a problem. The bike shifts the best with it, and when I tried the motor oil and ATF, my bike did not shift worth a damn, and there was glitter in the oil when I drained it. I even split my cases to see what was causing the glitter, but could not find anything. I ran BelRay for awhile and it was better than motor oil or ATF. I tried the Honda tranny oil when my dealer was out of BelRay, but the bike shifted like crap with it also. Then I had an independent shop turn me on to the Klotz and have been happily using it for the last 16+ years with no problems, i have not even welded any clutch balls in any of our bikes. The only problem I have with it is now I have to order it from Rocky Mt. ATV to get it. I usually just tack on 4 or 5 bottles every time I order from there. Just remember that oil is cheap compared to a ruined trip to the dunes or the cost of a bunch of failed parts.

x2 ON BOREING THE STOCK ONES. x2 PLASTIC IDLE SCREWS. SEND YOUR STOCKERS TO CASCADE AND BE DONE. If you are capable of stripping your carbs down yourself, ANY GOOD machine shop can bore them to 28mm. Just make sure that they don't go over 28mm, as you will have problems getting the idle speed low enough because too much air will be going around the slides in stead of blocked or going under it. It would be better to be at 27.9mm than it would to be 28.1 mm is my point. Otherwise it is just making a round hole 2mm bigger and any machine shop should be able to do that for you.

Since you are changing over and you seem to have glitter also, I would probably change it sooner than 20 hours the first time, just to get the rest of the ATF out and to make sure the glitter stopped. Like I said before, my bikes love the stuff and I have never had a gearbox/clutch problem using it, not even a problem with clutch balls welding to the pushrod. I am going to pancake bearings in the Bashees the next time I have them apart, just to be safe.I know some guys swear by ATF in their bikes, but it did not work for me, I know the oil is pricey, but it is cheaper than having a riding trip cut short and/or having to buy a bunch of parts and splitting cases. Hope you don't have any other problems, Good luck.

I am not 100% positive on this, but a "g" indicates a stock piston I think. if that is the case, you will probably need a 513 series piston in a 64.5mm bore.

I recomend using the bracket out behind the house that is round and says rubbermaid on it. When I buy a bike, the first thing I do is get rid of everthing that is not needed and the coolant bottle is one of them.

All loud pipes do is piss EVERYBODY off, riders and nonriders alike. And that leads to more riding areas getting closed. I have seen bikes that were extremely loud get their ass kicked by a bike you could barely hear. Do everybody a favor and get some decent pipes and silencers and maintain them. Unmuffled drag pipes only belong in one place, THE DRAGSTRIP!

That was not his question. Assuming that it is not a stroker or long rod crank, then you just need the standard 513 series Wiseco piston in whatever size your bore ends up at. Remember you have to bore each side, so you should be able to look at your goos piston to see what it is and repair accordingly. I recomend letting whoever does the boring supply the pistons(as long as he supplies Wisecos), that way you get the correct pistons for your bore and the clearances are set to the pistons you will be running.

I would think that a welded crank would be needed, seeing as how most bikes need that without nitrous.

No, we are talking about the needle bearing that is on the lower end of the rod, that the rod rides the crank with. You should get a book and check all the clearances for the crank and rod, you can check rod side play with the motor in the bike. There is definite damage to the head from metal pieces fly around in there, that means that there could be some in the crankcase and you need to get them out. I would split the cases and see what you have if you don't know the history of the bike and clean everything up.

64mm bore x 54mm stroke X 2 cylinders= 347cc's. So each cylinder is approximately 173.5 cc's. And technically the formula is pi times radius(of bore) squared times stroke times number of cylinders.

I live in Oregon and ride the Oregon Dunes alot, and love them. Here in Oregon you have to have a tag on your bike that is issued by the Oregon Parks Dept. and is sold by many retailers, mostly bike shops, but some other places in the towns by the dunes. Starting last year, Oregon is also requiring an Operators permit for the rider also, it is gradually being phased in by age, this year everybody under the age of 30 is required to have it, next year it will be everybody under the age of 40 and so on. In Oregon, youare required to have these items, unless your state has a similar program and reciprocates with Oregon, then the tags and permits from your state are OK. In Oregon there are noise laws, we have a speed limit on the beach and there are some other regulations. Sometimes they set up sound checks out in the dunes and you have to be checked to pass, usually we just go another direction when we see them so we are not hassled, even though our bikes are legal. The dunes are patrolled by Forest Service Law Enforcement and 3 different county sherriffs, depending on what area you are in. But, if you bike is not unreasonably loud, you have the tag visible and you obey the speed limits on the beach and access trails they will usually leave you alone. Out in the dunes there is no speed limit. In 2008, we went to St. Anthonys, Idaho and did not have to get any permits as our Oregon ones were OK. The sand there was awesome and the hills were huge and steep, we loved it. We were camped next to a family from SoCal and went for a ride in their sandcar and had a blast. They said that the St Anthonys dune had bigger,steeper hills than Glamis, but Glamis was a bigger area and was a totally different expierence. Someday, I will get to make my trip to Glamis and check it out myself. As far as I know, all sand dunes riding areas require a flag. For more dune info, you can go to DuneGuide.com, it has info on all dune areas in the USA and more. It will tell you how to get there, what the regulations are and so forth.

Who ever bores your cylinders better know what they are doing, the ports all have to be chamfered after the cylinders are honed, you need to have the proper cross hatch and finish on them afterwards, etc. I always take my cylinders to a reputable motorcycle/ATV machinist and let them bore it and supply the piston. That way they are bored as much as they need to be to clean up the cylinder walls, the pistons are the right size for the bore and everything has the proper clearances to work correctly. Wiseco pistons are the only piston you should use and they are an oval shaped piston that requires that you know the proper method of measuring them to get the clearances correct. When they come up to operating temperature they are round. Also, most of the 4 mil kits on ebay or where ever use a spacer plate and that is not the best way to build a stroker, you should talk to knowledgeable builder and have them set you up with the proper head, bore job and port job that is optimized for a 4 mil motor. Whatever kit you get needs to match you rods, if they are stock rods it should be a 513 series piston; if it is a long rod, it needs to be a 795 series piston and if it is a long rod stroker, you will probably need a 795 series piston AND head mod to make it work. Remember, it is cheaper to spend money the first time and have it done right; than it is to save a buck the first time and have to do it more than once.

Depending on how much stuff you take, either a backpack or a fanny pack. My wife and I each have a fanny pack big enough to hold a self made tool kit or first aid kit and a couple of water bottles or cans of liquid refreshment, and some other small items. If we need more than that, we have a backpack with a waist strap so it does not flop around. If we need even more room, we have a quick detach six pack rack on her bike that we can either put a small cooler or gas can in if we need it. I always carry a ATV tow strap in a pouch where the factory tool kit goes in the rear plastic.

If you order a crank from HotRods directly, you can request that it be welded and pay extra for it. I am not positive, but I believe that Vito's cranks come welded, if not then you can option it from them also. I would recomend a Hot Rods ubit over Vito's, if you find a smoking deal on it from somebody, you can always get it trued and welded locally f0 $50 to $100. Beware though that there are some scammers that are selling Hot Rods cranks on Ebay that are not really Hot Rods. They show a Hot Rods crank in the auction pictures, but what they actually ship to you is not a genuine Hot Rods crank. Also, a properly oiled K&N filter with an Outerwears on it will not let anything into your engine that will damage it. Some people claim a foam filter is better in the dirt, but I have seen granules of sand actually work their way through the pores in the foam, that is why if you ride sand you should always use a K&N.

Take a good look at your crankshaft and rods, this is the kind of damage that I have seen when a crankshaft rod bearing fails and sends the pieces through the motor. Also, if the crank is ok, make sure you get all the shrapnel out of the crankcase before you put it back together. If that head was not milled, it can be saved by having it cut and rechambered. Good Luck.

When I put my quads togehter,EVERY bolt on them gets either antiseize or some form of Loctite. I ride in sand, so corrosion is always a problem. I use blue Loctite on almost everything, besides not having to worry about anything falling off, the Loctite fills the voids in the threads of the fasteners and prevents moisture from getting in there and corroding things. It is usually easier to remove something with blue Loctite on the threads than it was to remove something that was installed dry. As for your calipers, at least give them a VERY close inspection for damage from the heat of the torch- lok for signs of the rubber melting on the boot or caliper seal, ant signs of leakage from the piston, and if the piton can be pushed back into the caliper easily to get the new pads in. I would also recomend bleeding your brake and getting fresh fluid in there that has not been boiled. It sounds like your bike needs to have all the fasteners soaked with a good penetrating oil such as Rust Release, or PB Blaster before you start working on it. The other thing I recomend is a good service manual, and a good torque wrench, and torque your fasteners to the correct spec and nothing more.

Mine usually runs at around 180 on my Trail Tech Vector, depending on the air flow over the radiator. Once you get above about 240 coolant temperature, you are probably not doing any good to your rings and pistons.

It does put less stress on the skirts but not because you are using a 795 piston. You are using a 795 pistpn because you went to a longer rod and have to get the clearance back somehow. The less stress is because the longer rod changes the relationship between stroke, rod, and piston and puts less side loading on the piston when it rocks over at Top Dead Center. It is a good mod to do when you have to rebuild or replace your crank, but I would not spend the monet to do it before your crank is done.

I have a cut and chambered head, mild dune port, ported reed cages with Boyesen reeds on them and my carbs are bored to 28mm. With this setup it would run fine on 93 octane. Then when I advanced my timing to +4, I had to start mixing 2 gallons of 108 or 110 octane race gas with 3 gallons of 93 pumpgas. I knew this going in, that is why I went ahead and bumped the timing, because my wife's Blaster would not run on pump gas and I was having to buy it for that bike so why not put it in my Banshee also?