bansheesandrider

It seems to me that you have an extra steel plate. I would recomend you do a VERY close inspection of your clutch pressure plate and clutch hub.Then I would replace the complete clutch, basket and anything else that is wore or damaged.

It is good oil, in it's day it was the best thing available. But it was formulated in the60s or 70s, and oil technology has come a long way since then. I think that there are farbetter oils available for the money.

It won't work unless it is mounted horizontally like it is on the Banshee. The compensating port in it will be in the wrong position to let fluid in and air out. But you could mount it on the frame somewhere and rig up a cable mand bellcrank to operate it remotely. Or could you rig up something using early Baster cable operated brakes.

I did mine myself back when the only thing that was available was the 90 dollar Pro Design plate. My buddy paid a shop to do his and then me and another buddy split the cost three ways with him. It ended up that the factory bolts with the built in washer on them sit right at the edge of the cast plate, so that is how much we ground out ours and set them up.

According to what I was told by my stealership when my 89 was new, ANY modification to the bike voids the warranty. They said if I brought it in with paddle tires on it, the warranty was void, however some dealerships will work with you and not mention certain things to Yamaha. If they are slow and needing work, warranty work paid by Yamaha is better than no work. If the warranty is extended and some kind of "claims ASSisant" is going to look at it you will be screwed if it is not all stock.

If the bike won't shut off with the off/run switch, then the off/run switch is not making a connection to ground. That has to be the problem, because that is how that switch works. If the coil itself was not making a ground connection the bike would not run at all, again, because that is what is needed at that location to make the bike run. There should definitely be a plug for the left handle bar switch and you should be able to unplug it and testy the function of the switch at that plug,consult a wiring diagram and you should be able to figure out where to place your meter leads to test what you need to. I just looked and with the switch unplugged, connect your ohmmeter to the black wire and the black/white wire in the switch plug. With the switch in the Run position the ohmmeter should read that ii is an open circuit. With the switch in the Off position, it should read that it is a closed circuit with very little resistance in it. If the resistance is high or it is an open circuit, then you have a defective switch. You can also plug the switch baci, go to the rear of the bike and unplug the 4 wire connector at the CDI box that has the orange, black, black/white, and red/black wires in it and test the black/white and black wires there for the same results I listed before. If it was OK at the switch plug but not at the CDI plug then you have a problem in your wire harness. The bottom line is the black/white wire coming out of the CDI box has to be grounded to shut the bike off, that is the sole purpose of that wire and Yamaha also tied the TORS system to this wire to shut the bike down if the throttle stuck. Hope this helps.

I guess his definition of "drag racing" is dragging the plastic through the sand as he is racing his bike. Also, remember, one guys creampuff is another guy's turd.

I would not do it unless you see the bike first and also make sure you get the correct ownership papers for your state. I had a buddy that just bought a Honda CBr600F3 off of Ebay because it was too good of deal to pass up. Now he is singing the blues and spending more money to get it fixed.

I had to buy a Rick's box when my stocker failed on a trip to St. Anthonys, it was all I could get. I rode it for 2 days in Idaho, came home and the bike sat for 5 weeks and then on a day trip to Sand Lake it gave me problems when the bike came off the trailer and by the end of the day it quite completely. After a major hassle with them I finally got them to warranty it and now I just carry it as a spare. Either stay with OEM or DYNA for a CDI box. For a coil I would stay OEM or else Nology or DYNA. For a stator, I would ONLY go with an OEM, all the high wattage staors are only hotter on the lighting circuit, the ignition side is the same as stock. There is a hop up ignition from MSD and there is also the PVL system, but I think those are aimed at the drag race guys.

First off, to do any kind of an EFI conversion on a Banshee, you are going to need to run a battery and a DC charging system so the ECU has consistent voltage.Then you will need sensors in the intake and exhaust systems and on the throttle system. So by the time you add all that weight you have negated any power gains. The second thing is, do you want more electronics that can fail in the middle of nowhere? As I see it the big advantage of EFI would be in the fact that as your elevation and/or temp changes, the bike would jet itself.

I would not run anything but a Wiseco based piston, and only let people that KNOW what they are doing modify them if you need sometning different.

1 side is definitely leaner than the other one, so that means you probably have an air leak. I don't know what all you are sending to FAST, but if it is just the topend they may not find it. Once the motor is back together, you need to pressure check it. It needs to have everything on it except the carbs. Air leaks can happen at the crank seals,head and base gaskets, case halves, intake gaskets, etc. Also, if it blew like this the first time, did you get all the shrapnel out of the bottom end when you put it back together?

First try a different spark plug. Then inspect your entire wire harness for any wires damaged or burned, especially around the air box/pipe area. Also check for anything unplugged. Then, break out the service manual and ohmmeter and check your stator like it says. Also, check your coil, but when you check the secondary resistance, put each of the meter wires on each 1 of the plug wires. DO NOT put 1 meter wire on a plug wire and the other meter wire on ground- that is how you check a single wire coil. Also, make sure the coil is bolted to bare metal on the frame. If all of this checks out, then bum a CDI box from somebody and see if that makes it run. All of this assumes that the TORS system has been removed from the bike. If it has not then the first thing you should do is unplug the black box under the left side of the fuel tank beside the coil. This will bypass it enough so that it will start, a proper removal will require a TORS Removal Kit and some work on your carbs. But if it is on there and screwed up it will prevent spark.

All Banshees had some kind of connector for the headlights. On some early bikes it was just 3 individual bullet connectors for each light, and on the later bikes it was an actual plug.

No you don't need it. The only thing you use from the old basket is the drive gear.

Don't get rid of the Banshee to get it, getting rid of the Blaster is OK. 250Rs are great bikes. Stock to stock, a R will ride better and turn better than a Banshee, but the Banshee will outrun it. I think there is far more potential in a Banshee for upgrades in both suspension and power. If you ride sand, or desert, then you definitely want to stay with a Banshee, everybody in my riding group that had a 250R sold it to get a Banshee. If you are in the woods a 250R might be a better choice.

It could be the POS Ricky Stator or it could be your voltage regulator failed, the voltage went up and burned out the bulbs. Get a meter and check things out- checkvoltage while it is running and then ohm the stator while it is off. The values will be different than stock but the main thing is going to be continuity.

Like I said, it is a myth on a stock type motor. I tied to put a Vapor on my 89 and even with BR8ES plugs I had problems with it resetting. I took the bike to TrailTech and they could not make it work either. They replaced everything, sensors wiring and even the unit itself and tried every trick they knew of, but could not make it quit resetting. They ended up giving me a complete Vector set up and one of their crimper/wiring kits AND I got to keep the Vapor.

A pancake bearing on the internal clutch adjuster will prevent this. That being said, I don't have a pancake bearing in any of my bikes and I have NEVER had a problem,which I attribute to the Klotz Flex Drive 30 oil I use in my tranny instead of the ATF or other oil alot of people on here use. I have an 89 that I bought new and I ride and my wife has had a 96 and a 97 and we have not had any balls weld themselves running this oil.

Just remember when it comes to parts you get what you pay for. I bought a set of tie rod ends off ebay for my ground up build and the other day when i was looking at my parts i noticed the boots are already cracking. They have never been installed, just sitting in a box in the barn with my other parts and the bikes. You can get the bearings at any ATV shop, bearing house, a good auto parts store, etc. Just take out your old ones and have them match them up. Based on my expierence I would go to Yamaha for the tie rod ends as the original one on my 89 are still tight and the boots are in good shape.

Check the plugs because it easy to do. But, it could be the CDI box, or the stator, or the coil, or the wire harness. Use an Ohmmeter to check the stator and coil per the service manual. If those check out OK, then see if you can borrow a CDI box from a buddy and see if that makes it run. Also, make sure the coil mounts to bare metal on the frame as that is a ground point, and make sure all the wires in the harness are not burnt or broken, especially around the air box where they are close to the pipes.

It does not go by the surface where the locknut tightens, it goes by where the screw contacts the throttle slide. When you set your carbs up, screw the screws in until they just touch the slide with it all the way closed, then turn each screw another 1/2 turn. Start the bike and adjust the idle speed, turning each screw equally in whatever direction is needed. Once you have the proper idle speed AND each screw is equal, lock the nuts. Then with the bike turned off, stick a finger in the back of each carb and move the throttle, each slide should start to move at the same time. If they don't you need to adjust the cables on the carb tops. Lengthen the adjuster on whichever carb is the second one to move. This is all I have ever done to sync my carbs, I don't have a fancy tool and my bike seems to run just fine- both cylinders are running at the same temp according to my I/R temp gun, exhaust pressure feels the same, etc. I do have the stock balance tube on my bike and that is the reason Yamaha put it there in the first place, to make up for the MINOR discrepancies in intake flow from one side to the other.

I just did a lot of research for a ground up build I am doing. I wanted to use the original RZ shift forks that had the roller on the guide pin for the shift drum, but it seems that Yamaha discontinued them and used the Banshee style in the later years overseas. The advantage of the powervalve is that it improves low end power without sacrificing top end power. As you know, to gain power in one place, you usually have to sacrifice it somewhere else. The powervalve lessens that sacrifice by varying the size of the exhaust port, small ports make low end power and large ports make top end power. The powervalve is in the exhaust port of the jugs so refer back to my first reply. The stock RZ electrical system is DC, has a rectifier,a powervalve controller, servo motors and cables to run the powervalves, etc. If money is no object and you want to have something unique then go for it, but the money would be better spent on a properly ported and built 4mil instead.

Aftermarket pipes are single wall vs. stock pipes that are double wall, this means you will hear more noise in the expansion chamber. That being said, are you sure you don't have detotnation going on, or some other impending mechanical failure?

Yes hooking it to the coil will work for a while, but you never know when the spike from switching it off will zap the CDI.