bansheesandrider

The manual is wrong on how to check the secondary side of the coil, the way the manual says to do it is for a typical coil that only has 1 wire or tower on it. The correct way to check a Banshee coil is to connect 1 lead from your meter to EACH one of the spark plug wires and see what you get.Check your magnets in the flywheel to see if they are ok, check the air gap on the pickup coil, it should be .017 inches or about the thickness of a matchbook cover. Ohm out the stator, pickup coil, and the coil, if they all check out, then borrow a CDI box from a buddy and see if it will run. According to the Yamaha manual, there is no way to check the CDI box, except by substituting another.You should also check the spark plug caps on the coil, they have a resistor in them that can go bad.

When you do a compression check, you should have both plugs out of the motor and hold the throttle wide open. Kick it until the gauge quits climbing. Also use a gauge that does not use an adapter to screw into the motor and it should have a check valve right at the end where it goes in the motor. Adapters and the check valve being anywhere else will give a false low reading.

My Trail Tech Vector shows 180-200 when I am riding, when it gets to 215, I either quit racing the hill or go for a high speed ride under light load. I know this does not hurt the motor because in the 7+ years I have been riding on this topend, I have only lost 10 psi on a compression test. I run a 50/50 mix of Prestone and distilled water with a small amount of Water Wetter added per the WW instructions, and I flush and change the coolant every 2 years or less. There is absolutely no corrosion in my cooling system.

Um, if it was a J arm bike, it was not a 91. J arms were only used on 87-90 model bikes, 91 was the first year of the A arm bikes. Every thing should work out fine as long as you have the later style spindles to match the later style calipers. I was planning on doing the same thing, but I have now collected so many parts that I am just going to build another bike from the ground up and only use a few high performance parts off the old bike. I am going to replace them with stock or not so high performance parts and use my 89 J arm bike to take as a spare or buddy bike.

Try the 25 pilots again. At your elevation with the Toomey needles, you may not need any more pilot than that. It also seems loke your main jet is pretty big, you might verify that you are not rich and do a plug chop to check it.

You can sand camp out in the dunes, I would recomend reservations even to camp in the sand as it is very busy in the summer and even out in the sand there are designatrd campsites. In the Florence area the only improved campground that you can ride out of in the summer is Driftwood II at the south end. At the Winchester Bay area, there is a county campground right next to the dunes, Half Moon Bay, that you can ride out of. There is another county campground closer to town, Windy Cove, that you can ride from along the road to the dunes. There is a private campground right next to the dune also. It is called Discovery Point and they have RVand tent sites and also cabins that can be rented, some of the cabins are actually RVs that are permanently setup there and some are like motel rooms. At the Coos Bay area, there are several federal or private campground that you can ride out of, even a KOA that is kind of spendy in my opinion, but it is nice and has hot showers. Also, the Federal improved campground, Horsfall, has showers. There is Horsfall AND Horsfall Beach campground, don't mix them up. As I said there is sand camping at all 3 areas also. No matter where you are staying, in the summertime I recomend reservations. Also, Oregon now requires an ATV Operators Permit for anyone under the age of 30 to ride on public land, next year it will be anyone under 40, and then 50 the year after that. You can find out info on that at www.rideatvoregon.org to see if you need one based on age and out of state requirements. If your state reconises Oregon tags on the bike then the tag on your bike will be reconised by Oregon. The Oregon Dunes does have sound laws and they setup random checkpoints to enforce it, I have always managed to avoid them, they usually put them on a narrow section of trail so they can control who goes by. My bike is perfectly legal, but I am not sure about the wife's bike.The law says that it needs to be below 93 db, the law also says that it needs to be a USFS approved spark arrestor, but they USUALLY don't enforce that part as there is not that much out there to burn.

Will the dunes be open by then? I am not sure how it works, but I know that at least part of the dunes are closed in the winter, and used as a deer, elk, or moose feeding area. You might want to check before you go. The town of Rexburg is to the south about 15-20 minutes drive, as said. If you follow the road into town, instead of getting on the highway to town, it will take you right to Walmart and several other stores. The Yamaha dealer is right off the highway, there is a NAPA and other auto parts in town. If you want to camp at the dunes, I recomend Desert Oasis campground, it is basically in the middle of the dunes, so you are centrally located and can ride anywhere on a tank of fuel. That is where we stayed and when we rode to Choke Cheery Hill and back, I was just about out of fuel. There is a BLM campground that is next to a lake and a little bit closer to Choke Cherry Hill, but the amenities are not quite as nice as Desert Oasis.There is a small store at the BLM campground that has spare parts-plugs ,sprocket, flags, etc., and they also have St. Anthonys hats and T shirts. There is also Sand Hills Resort to camp at, it is probably the nicest campground, but it is also the farthest from the big hills as it is located at the opposite end of the riding area from the big hills. It has grass and I believe, even a playground for the kiddies, we have friends that we ride with here in Oregon that stay there and swear by it, but they take their kids and they ride four strokes so the gas distance is not a problem.

I used to run my Haulers at 2psi and they hooked up great. But I got tired of buying tires bcause a paddle either split or flew off. I now run them at 5psi and it doesn't hook up as good, but I am not losing paddles either. The hookup doesn't bother me too much because I have quit racing, it's just the wife and I having fun in the dunes. I intend to try a set of Extremes for my next set to see how they hold up at lower pressures.

But not nearly as fun or as fast! If you were to go 4 joke, at least get a decent 450. The only people that I know that ride 400EXs are the girls in our group.

Cascade used to offer this mod. I have a buddy that bought a brand new 1999 from Cascade/ Florence Yamaha. When he got it, it had a hole in the clutch cover and they used one of their billet inserts to seal it up.

I don't know of any street tires for ATVs, especially that fit the stock wheels. Some guys run 12 inch tire for a honda or mini on the front. You could also try some go cart tire and wheels on it.

When my topend was fresh I had 185 and it currently has 175, my timing is set at +4 and I run 2 gallons of 108 or 110 octane race gas mixed with 3 gallons of 93 octane premium pump gas, mixed 40:1 with Klotz R50 at sea level. I never have any problems with detonation or preignition.I have a cut and chambered stock head by Twister and I don't remember what the chamber size is.

Oh, I didn't mention that after every mod for power, you will need to jet the bike properly.

Stay away from a boost bottle, it won't give you any power and you will end up with cracks in your intake boots from the bottle bouncing around on them. If you just want to go the bolt on route, then I recomend pipes, better intake breathing by removing the air box lid or goinig to a 2into1 or indiviual pod filters, a cool head or milled and chambered stock head, advancing the timing 4 degrees by either modifying the stock plate or a Chariot Performance plate, better reeds by porting the stock cages and using Boyesen petals or a V Force 3 setup in that order. From there you are looking at porting and other internal motor work. There are also several mods that should be done for reliability- weld the crank, pancake bearing, billet impeller, etc. There are also some mods for rideability- shift star, shift shaft mod, better shocks, proper tires for where and what you ride, etc.

I usually don't remove my float to adjust the height, I just use a pick and screwdriver to put pressure where it is needed to adjust the height as requiredwithout putting pressure on anything else.That way you can easily see your progress.

Is it possibly a broken spring from the clutch? It is probably what scarred up your cover and definetly what went through your gears. Your are going to have to buy a clutch basket as that is the only way to get the gears that go on it unless you buy straight cut gears. You will also need a crank gear and any other parts that were damaged. As for the impeller, what you are describing is typical of billet impellers- their shafts are actually softer than the factory shaft. Mull Engineering actually makes an impeller that goes on the hardened factory shaft, but they are currently out of stock.Also, inspect your kick idler gear for a sloppy bushing, if the bushing is sloppy it will flip the snap ring off the shaft and run it through the gears like the other piece did.

My point was that it does not matter if it sucks air or coolant back in BECAUSE AS SOON AS IT HEATS BACK UP IT PUSHES OUT WHATEVER IT SUCKED IN. My personal bike has been setup the way I described for 18+ years, my wife's current bike has been this way since we got it, her previous Banshee was this way, all my friends with Banshees have theirs setup this way and probably 90% of the guys on here are setup this way and none of us are having problems caused by not running an overflow bottle. The only reason they started putting overflow bottle on cars was to keep the coolant off the pavement and enviroment.

If you want to stay local, there is Twister Crankshafts- they do full builds, Cascade and White Knuckle Racing in the Boring/Estacada area.There is also Redline Racing in Sweet Home, they are a site sponsor. The only one of these I have dealt with personally is Twister, they do all my machine work and I assemble things myself. I am not positive, but I have heard that Cascade has Twister do some of their work for them, they are only about 3 miles apart. In the past, I have heard some things about White Knuckle, that I won't repeat in an open forum, that keeps me from using them. I know absolutely nothing about Redline Racing other than they are a site sponsor. Everybody on here seems to speak highly of FAST and Herr Juggs.

Glad you figured it out. You need to get a good service manual, most guys on here say to get the Clymers manual, they like it because it costs less than the OEM Yamaha manual. I have never used the Clymers, I use the Yamaha book. It cost more, but it has excellent pictures and diagrams of how all the cables and wiring are supposed to be routed, and list every possible spec and special tool needed to work on the bike. You can get versions of the factory book on CD Rom off of Ebay, just make sure you are getting a copy of the factory book. Some of them even have parts diagrams on them. A good service manual will have a wiring diagram so you can figure out what wires to get rid of.

A big mean dog tied to the bike and a .45 under my pillow. I also use a disc lock on each bikes brake rotor and run a braided Kryptonite cable through all the bikes and the frame of the trailer.

Take the hose that used to go to the water bottle and route it down the frame tube behind the radiator, zip tie it to it and cut it off right below the bottom frame tube so it spits on the ground and not the bike. Mine has been this way for 18 years and I do all the newer bikes the same way. Fill the radiator and bring it up to temp easily and let it spit what it needs to and you are good to go. It will spit a little out and when it cools it sucks in a little air that it will push back out the next time it comes to temp.

Why do you want to do this? I have been told using the YFZ spindles and hubs throw off the front end geometry and make s the bike handle poorly. I have not done this myself, so I don't know for sure. I have been told that you can use YFZ calipers as a direct bolt on to the later style Banshee spindles(1990- on). Yes the spindle did change on a Banshee between 89 and 90, not between 90 and 91 like some people thnk because that is when the J arms became A arms.

This is plus 3, I actually brought this up n the very first reply and then further explained it in a subsequent post.

As far as I know the key is only available from Yamaha unless you have an advance key. It is easy to tell an advance key- the top half is offset from the bottom half. If there is any kind of a step on it, it is either an advance key or a wore out stock key, either way it needs to be replaced. I would not use any anti-sieze on the crank, you want that flywheel to be stuck in place good so it does not loosen up. When it is time to remove it, install the puller corectly and then tighten the screw until there is pressure on it. Then smack the end of the pressure screw with a hammer and the flywheel will pop right off.

Your problem could be caused by water in the Park Brake switch at the handle bars, the water is providing a path to ground for the rev limiter wire, you should be able to unplug the PB rev limiter wire at the bars and see if it fixes it.