bansheesandrider

I run a cut and chambered head that gets me 185 at sea level when fresh, and is at 175 after 7 years on the top end.I have no problems with it.

The problem with your gauge is the adapterthat goes between the gauge and cylinder. Unless it has a check valve in the other adapter it is not getting an accurate reading on the engine. Also, when you check the compression, the engine should be warm, the throttle should be wide open, and you should kick it over until the needle quits climbing. 100 psi seems a little low even for 800 feet, if it was 1800 ft, it would be fine.

They are heavy and prevent the bike from revving quickly. That is why they give the illusion of traction, the bike does not have the snap that it used to. But bcause they are heavy and stiff, they don't flex to conform to the terrain.

Usually not, but it will affect the octane requirements of the engine.

Judging from what I can see, your piston did not get "clobbered", your crankshaft grenaded and the resulting shrapnel ran through the engine and damaged the piston, head, and cylinder. This is what an unwelded crank does. Make sure the new crank that you get is trued and welded.

ALL modded Banshees should have the crank welded, I have seen bikes with nothing more than pipes and paddles have the crank let go. I have never seen a stock carb have a problem with the stock bowls running dry as long as the tank vent and petcock were working properly. My stock 26 mm carbs are bored to 28mm and work great, plus I have the advantage of being able to use stock parts that are available at any good dealer when I am on a trip. Fattys make their power at just a hair lower RPM than T5s.

Cascade used to offer this mod.

Advancing your timing will improve your BOTTOM end. It is possible to hurt your topend overrev if you go too far. You can do either a head mod or a timing mod without the other. I would recomend the Chariot head set to +4.

It depends on the brand of tank, they are either 5.5 or 5.6 gallons. On both of them, you will no longer run the tank covers(still use the factory radiator cover), and I believe one of them you also cut off the fender plastic that is directly under the tank covers. There could also be interference between your tank and the handlebars and/or the steering stem depending on what you are using. The only two manufactureres that I know of are IMS and Clarke Manufacturing, you can go to both of their websites and see pictures of tanks on bikes.

The only reason Yamaha lists timing in the service manual is so that you can put a light on it and see if the advance curve in the CDI box is working. IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH CYLINDER THE LIGHT IS ON BECAUSE BOTH CYLINDERS FIRE AT THE SAME TIME. As I said it is a waste spark system- this means that each cylinder fires at both TDC and BDC, and since Banshees are a twin cylinder that is phased 180 degrees apart, it means both cyliners fire at the same time, when the left is at TDC, the right is at BDC and vice versa. This is because a Banshee uses 1 coil to fire both cylinders- the secondary loop of the coil send the spark out 1 wire to the first plug, down the center electrode, it arcs across to the ground electrode of plug 1, traverses ground(the metal of the cylinder head) to the ground electrode of plug 2, arcs across plug 2 and travels up the center electrode of plug 2 to the other spark plug wire and back to the coil, completing the circuit. This is why when you check secondary resistance on the coil your meter leads should be connected to each plug wire and not to one plug wire and ground like the book says. A modern ditributorless car works on the same principle, except there are multiple coils, one for each cylinder pair, and they only fire each pair once per revolution because it is a four stroke. The only way the timing can change on a Banshee is to use an adjustable timing plate, or a CDI box that has adjustable timing curves in it. Simply doing a top end WILL NOT change your timing because you have not taken apart anything that affects timing- the flywheel and stator positions are the only thing that affects timing. I hope this clears it up for you.

I used to take mine to work once a year and use the steamcleaner on them, then rinse them out with cold water until there were no more soap bubbles. Then I would set them in the sun upside down until they were dry. My fuel CANS don't have petcocks on them so that was not a problem.

I mounted mine under the rear of the seat, it sticks up through the hole in the rear plastic that the overflow bottle lid used to reside in. The wires are plenty long, you just have to unwrap the harness and reroute them. I might have even shortened them, I don't remember. I built my own bracket to do it. I to like to have the key switch for when I am away from the bike and it is sitting out.

Yes, what is your pilot jet size? When setting the idle mixture, start at 1.5 or 1.75 turns out and then adjust them equally for the highest idle speed. Once the mixture is set correctly, go back and adjust the idle speed screws for the desired idle speed.

IF it was a PERFECT circle the circumference is the diameter times pi, with a tire you have to factor in the fact that the lower half of the diameter is less than the upper half because of the flat spot where it meets the ground. I realize that the rollout is the most accurate method and will even be different than measuring the circumference of the tire off the bike. With a 3/4 inch difference, it will probably measure out to around 2 inches difference. But the other factor in all this is that is a much heavier tire to get spinning and therefore a little more gear will also help that out.

Did it actually grenade or are you just doing it because it is getting tired? If it is tired then you will probably have to do more than hone it, it will need to be bored. If it grenaded, then there could be enough damage that it will need to be bored and not just honed. depending on how bad it blew up, you may need to split the cases to get all the shrapnel out. You can try to wash out the pieces with solvent or parts cleaner with the engine upside down. If it was just tired, then there shouldn't be any thing to worry about. Get a service manual and you will be able to do it and save money, even with the cost of the manual. You will have to get the cylinders off to see what is going on, and then take them to a good machinist that does motorcycle/ATV work and have them measure them and bore if neccassary.

The bottom line is it is personal preference. If you have one style on your machine and don't like it, get the other one and see if you like it better. You can always switch it back if you don't like it. But most of the guys running twists started out riding motorcycles and like to stay with what they know.Most people that started on quads prefer the thumb. There are some exceptions and some people have handicaps or other physical anomalies that dictate one or the other.

It could be your kick idler gear woblling, they are notorius for the bushing wearing out and then the gear is moving around and flips the snap ring off. When mine came loose, it ruined the primary drive gears on the clutch basket and crankshaft, thewater pump drive gear, the idler gear and the snap rind and special washers. When my buddy's came off, it cracked a bearing on the crank. I would pull your cluct cover ASAP and take a look at what is going on, something is definetely out of place in there. Get a good service manual and you can get parts diagrams from several places on the web-RideNow Powersports, CheapCycleParts.com, or Apache Motorcyles, these are sites that use Yamaha part numbers. You can also use BikeBandit.com, but they use their own numbering system that only works if you order from them, and I think the other places are cheaper also.

Shop around, there are good deals to be found, but remember, you get what you pay for. I think Cascade is a little high becuase they are a reseller and not a manufacturer. Also if you look at JJ&A Racing, you can find deals on carriers in their closeout or scratch and dent or clearance sections, whatever it is called. Another place to look is Metal Tech, and the aforemwntioned Stellar Machine.

Check inside the light assembly where the black wire is soldered to the lamp holder, this is your ground and may have broke off. It is a slight possibility as it sounds as though both lights have problems but it doesn't hurt to check. You could also try the other leg of the stator to see if it makes a difference.

I use Twister Crankshafts in Boring, Oregon for all my machine work and put everything together myself. Cascade also does engine work. There is also White Knuckle Racing although I have heard some shady things about them that I won't go into in public. I know we are supposed to support site sponsors, but I like to be able to drop off and pickup my parts and talk in person to see what the builder and shop is like. The last crank that Twister did for me, I was able to watch him do it from a pile off parts to a complete welded assembly.Just do your homework and make sure you know what you are supposed to be getting. There might also be some others in Portland, these are the ones that came to mind quickly.

You need to figure what your compression is. Depending on what it is you might be able to mix pump and race gas together. I don't have 19cc domes but my bike runs fine on 2 gallons of 108 octane race gas mixed with 3 gallons of 93 octane pump gas.

Depending on what the mud is like you may HAVE to regear for them. They are a big heavy tire and will suck all the power out of your bike in mud. Anytime you are building a mud machine, you need lots of power, and taller tires rob power. You need to find the gearing chart, on a truck website, that shows what gears you need for running bigger tires. Plug in your numbers, get the new ratio, and hopefully you can just change the front sprocket to get there. Good Luck.

I run twists on all of our bikes. I grew up riding dirt bikes and it is very natural to me. My Banshee twist is very smooth and never sticks or causes any problem, but it is a high end Magura 312 and is no longer made. I was hesitant to put one on our daughter's Blaster, but we got sick of having to stop to let her rest her thumb all the time, so we put one on when she was 13 or 14 and have no problems, it has been on there for 9 years.

Go to DuneGuide.com. It will tell you where there are dune anywhere and what you need for eguipment, permits, regulations and even how to get there. Once you find a place to reide you can meet some new ones to ride with. Hopefully some Florida guys will chime in. Good luck.

I agree with 421, i think 10s are better for all around duning and the 8s are better for serious drag racing. So I would go with the 10s.