bansheesandrider

What color is the smoke, white, blue,or black? If it is black it is a fuel problem. If it is blue it is a fuel problem. And if it is white it is a coolant problem. You can do a leakdown test on the motor, it should hold 6psi for 6 minutes. If it doesn't you will need to see if you can figure out where the air is leaking out- you can spray a soapy water solution on ALL possible leakage pionts and look for bubbles. You can also pressure check the cooling system to see if a head gasket or something else is leaking.

You can't weld it, but you can take it to a radiator shop and they can repair it for you.

Do a leak test, there are a couple of threads on here about it. If your crank seal is bad the motor has to come out and the cases have to be split to replace the crank seals.If you have to slit the cases, then you need to make sure that your crankshaft, clutch basket, shift shaft, and kick idler gear are all in good shape. While you are in there, I would have the crank trued and welded if it is not already. You will also want to look into getting a modded shift star, a modded shift shaft, a pancake bearing, a billet clutch basket, and a billet water pump impeller. Every thing except the crank can be installed by just removing the clutch cover so the crank is the most important.You can research all this stuff on here just by doing some reading and I also recomend getting a service manual. Splitting the cases is not hard if you have a manual and work in an organized manner and take your time.

#1-replace the needle and seats and set your float level. #2- get rid of the airbox and put pods or a 2 into 1 filter on it.

Bought a Rick's Electrics CDI box from the Yamaha dealer in Rexburg, Idaho when I went to St. Anthonys in July 2008. It was the only thing they could get while I was going to be there as it only had to come from Boise. When I got back home to Oregon, it failed. According to my Trail Tech hourmeter I had not put 10 hours on the bike since it was installed. I called Rick's and they said they would not warranty it because there was no record of purchasing it from an authorized dealer. I said that Rexburg Yamaha got it from Western Powersports, who was an authorized wholesaler and that Rexburg Yamaha was an authorized retailer of Western Powersports so that should have been an authorized dealer. I ended up calling Rexburg Yamaha and having them call Rick's Electrics to straighten it out. I was then able to send it back to Rick's for them to INSPECT it. They had it for 2 weeks and I did not hear a thing. I finally called them and they said they could not find it. I threatened them with a post on the BHQ and they said they would call me back within 2 hours. Just as I was about to call them back again after 2.5 hours my phone rings and they said they would warranty it although there was not normally a warranty on CDI boxes, and they said they would ship it out the next day to me. I said they had better warranty it because when you spend $300 on something it should last for more than 10 hours and if they did not warranty it, I would write up a product review of them on BHQ and let everybody know about them. When I got the replacement CDI box, I plugged it in to see if it worked, it did, and I now just carry it as a spare part.

Is the choke tube between the two carbs in place?

First thing you need to do is get rid of the boost bottle, the weight of it bouncing around will cause your intake boots to tear and it does nothing for performance.I would advance yor timing and eitheer cut and chamber your stock head od get a cool head with some 21cc or 20cc domes before you port it.You could also port the reed cages and put a set of Boyesen petals on it, or buy a set of V Force3 reed cages. You should also verify that the crankshaft has been trued and welded before you do any other hop ups. I have seen bikes with nothing more than a set of pipes grenade the crank.

When I used a Pivot Works kit on my kid's Blaster swingarm I couldnot even get the sleeves to go in the new bearings. I ended up reusing the old sleeves and caps which were still in good shape, I had bought and extended swingarm from Cascade and the bearings were junk, luckily I kept the original sleeves and caps when I traded in her stock arm. My opinion of Pivot Works stuff is it is junk.

It does no good to have new shocks and springs if the control arms are flopping around loosely on the frame. You have to have all your pivot points tight so your wheels stay in alignment to have a good handling bike.

Firehead, where did you buy a house at in North Plains? I have lived there all of my life on a farm JUST outside of town.

A longer swingarm transfers a greater percentage of the total weight of the bike to the front wheels. This results in 2 things that are intertwined- it is harder to lift the front tires AND it is easier to spin the back tires. This makes it easier to climb hills because the front end is not trying to flip over. The other thing it does is increase your wheelbase, which results in a larger turning radius. This make it harder to turn the bike in tight situations. I personally run a +4 on mine and my wife's bike. I had a buddy that had a +6 and I hated it because I could not get the front end up over obstacles when I needed to. You have to evaluate what you need because every situation is different.

If nobody give the new guys a chance, then who is going to build our engines when the established guys are no longer in the business? I have seen multiple shops fold up, even though they had work lined up for a month in advance. In tis day and age, you never know when a shop is going to close and then you are looking for a new shop.Like I said before, find some local customers to talk to and maybe even ride their bike. If you like what you see and hear, then go for it.

Actually 2008 was the first year for Sandfest at Coos Bay, not counting the Sandfest that they used to have back in the 90s.This year there will be Sandfest at Coos Bay around the 4th of July and there will be Dunefest at Winchester Bay around the first weekend in August. Does the name jdforever12345 have anything to do with the long gone JD Racing?

Make sure the play is not at the pivot on the frame, J arm or D arm bikes are notoriuos for wearing out the pivot bushings. That and the fact that Jarms bend pretty easy is the reason Yamaha switched to A arms.

T6s are made to go on a bike that is not going to see any other mods at all. They are a better all around pipe than a bike that has T5s and nothing else done to it. If you are going to add a head, reeds, porting, carbs and other hop ups, you definetely need to go with the T6s, even if you have not done the mods yet.

And all I am saying is that those guys did not have a reputation at one time. Everybody has to start somewhere, Louie at Twister used to get HIS engine work done at the defunct JD racing in exchange for painting stuff for them.

If you really want to know how good they are, ask them for the names of some local customers that you can contact and see how happy they are with the work RIS did. I am all for supporting the site sponsors, but I also have a real problem with shipping my motor off to some shop that I have never seen. I like to be able to walk into a place ans see how it is run, is it neat and clean, will they show me what they are working on, what they have for inventory, etc. There are alot of shops in this country that do good work, but are not site sponsors unfortunately.

Lets stop for a minute and analyze this. New piston rings will probably NOT fix your problem because a Banshee is a 2 stroke motor. If it was a 4 stroke motor the problem could be piston rings or some other stuff I won't go into because it does not apply here. The only way rings will cause this on a Banshee is if the compression is so low that the cylinder is not firing properly, and if that is the case you should probably be boring the cylinders and putting in new rings AND PISTONS. If the right side is smoking on a Banshee. the problem is most likely that the crankshaft seal is bad and it is sucking tranny oil into the crankcase and that oil burning is what is causing it to smoke. The proper way to diagnose this is to do a leakdown test while the motor was still together. Since you did not do that, at this point I would put the new rings in and hope for the best. The Wiseco pistons have a little tiny pin in each ring groove, the ends of the rings should go on each side of this pin so you can compress the rings to get the cylinder back on. Once you have it back together, if it still smokes you need to do a leakdown test. If it won't hold pressure, then I would pull the clutch cover to see if it is leaking at the right crankshaft seal.

You won't be checking voltage, you will be testing the resistance of the stator using an ohmmeter. It tells you how to do it in the electrical thread list above. Like it was already said, check the pickup coil gap also.

I am out at North Plains so I am very local to you. There was a place on 25th street by the airport called Longhill Motorsports that has closed because of the economy. I was told that he is still running the business out of his garage at home now and you can still get ahold of him at the phone number on his website. All the other builders I know of in the Portland area are located out in the Estacada, Boring, Damascus, or Clackamas area. They are Twister, Cascade, Top Dog Racing, White Knuckle Racing, Midnite Motorsports and there are a couple of others that I am not sure do porting. I personally use Twister for my machine work and do all my own service and assembly work. My bike was ported by the long gone JD Racing.

There is a lot to getting a crank true. You need to get all the clearances correct, you must get the pins 180 degrees apart, AND then you need to get the thing to spin true without wobble. THEN you need to TIG weld it with VERY little filler rod so you dont upset the balance of the assembly. It is next to impossible to tell you how to do this step by step, but somebody that has done a couple of thousand will make it look like a simple process. I watched Twister do the one that is currently in my bike and Louie made it look easy, but I would NEVER attempt it myself even though I have most of the stuff you need(except the special jigs you need to support the crank while pressing it) to do it and I have over 25 years of mechanical expierence.

Yes you need Warrior ball joints, the Yamaha part number is 1UY-23549-00-00 and you can get them from any Yamaha dealer. or CheapCycleParts.com or RideNowPowersports.com online. RideNow will probably be the cheapest. You can also get them from BikeBandit but you will have to find their part number. I don't recomend the Honda balljoint mod, it is not needed with the D arms. I have the Lonestar D arms also and have never wore out a set of ball joints. If you need to look up the numbers yourself, the application is a 87 Warrior and it is the same number for all 4 joints.

I cut my pegs apart and moved the peg back and down so it now resides between the mounting bolts and welded the up. If you do this, make sure you know what you are doing when you weld them as there are incredible forces on the pegs when you jump or blaze through the rough stuff. This mod makes it much easier to move from a sitting position to a standing position on the bike as I have bad knees from playing youth football years ago. As I said before, there are some "race pegs" out there that do the same thing, but some of them are not built strong enough to hold up to jumping or even trail riding. Another alternative I have been told about is to put Blaster pegs on a Banshee, you have to use a longer bolt and a spacer on the right side to make up for the step on the frame where the right peg bolts on. After you move the pegs, you can modify the shifter and/or brake pedals as needed to fit your feet, there are both made of steel and can be bent, cut and welded as needed to fit.

It is not a silly question, Yamaha has a torque spec for just about every fastener on the bike. If things are not torqued tight enough the they come loose, and if they are overtightened you might snap off a bolt or strip the threads out of a hole. The only way to know if they are tightened properly is to use a torque wrench properly.

The Yamaha manual says 32-33 foot pounds, and I have found that if you don't use a torque wrench and ride in sand that the next time you want to take them off it is just about impossible to get them broke loose without an impact wrench.