bansheesandrider

I have used Mop & Glo to restore the shine.

When cutting straight lines I use a cutoff wheel. To make it look nice, I hit the edges wtith a file and then some fine sandpaper. Then to bring the gloss back, use a heat gun along the edges. If you don't have a heat gun you can use a small propane torch.

How big are they bored? I have stock 26mm carbs bored to 28mm on my bike but it is a straight bore all the way through. They work fine, I have no problems setting my idle speed or the bike wanting to idle to high, etc.

When it is installed properly, the metal stud sits on top of the swingarm tube so the chain cannot push it down to far, it will rotate with the swingarm as it goes up and down. It needs to be slid on the swingarm pivot tube before the swingarm is put on the bike, unless it is a piece from TMDesignworks or UPP, I believe theirs are split so they can be put on the bike with the swingarm already installed. It is about time you got rid of the pile of crap stock roller that goes around the pivot tube, they wear out very quicly and then your chain is sawing into your swingarm pivot tube.

Also, I forgot to mention that in order for the engine to rev up it has to have enough fuel/air to support the higher RPMs, yes when they go lean they will rev up to some degree, but as it runs out of fuel it dies. It will not rev up unless there is a fuel/air mixture to support it.

If you have the TORS system it will either idle correctly or not run at all. TORS cannot cause it to run wide open, all TORS does is when it senses the thumb throttle is closed AND the carb slides are not in the idle position, it cuts the spark so the engine dies. The original purpose of TORS was to prevent stuck throttle/ runaway situations.

You will need ALL the gaskets and seals for the engine and transmission, you will also neeed the lockwashers for the clutch basket and countershaft sprocket. The rest of what you need depends on how much money you want to spend. Since you will be so far into it, you should look at the clutch basket for play, a wore out bushing on the kick idler gear, a sloppy claw on the shift shaft,and check or replace all the bearings. You could grind the shift star or buy a modded one , you could mod the shift shaft if it is good or get a new modded one from FAST, you should probably put in a pancake bearing in the clutch. You could also put in a billet impeller in the water pump, do the seal and bearing while you are in there. The list is endless, I have owned my Banshee for over 20 years and I still can find things to spend money on.

They should be fine on your Banshee, depending on what size they are, you may want to regear. My cousin used them in snow and they work awesome, he could go everywhere and pop wheelies and yet they did not dig in and high center him.

Those fronts look like they are Maier, they have the flange where you would have normally cut off the elephant ears. Maier comes without the holes drilled, that explains the egged out holes, and if they are the older style Maiers then they come from the factory with a flat, nongloss finish that is kind of rough. But all that does not excuse his actions or inaction. File a claim with PayPal and get your money back.

The short answer is, to do it properly you have to split the cases to get the new seal in without damaging it. I did have the mechanic at Florence Yamaha in the Oregon Dunes tell me that you could grind off the rib on the new seal and install it in the cases with Yamabond and let it set up, BUT, he only recomended doing this to get through a weekend at the dunes and NOT as a long term repair.

That is great except if you are not running headlights or taillights then you can leave the yellow wire coming out if the stator onhooked and do away with it and the voltage regulator also. That opens the circuit in the lighting side so the voltage regulator is not needed. With the yellow wire unhooked, and the lighting circuit open, it is reducing parasitic drag on the engine, it is just like putting a switch in the alternator field wire on a drag car.

Not all cranks on Ebay are HotRods, there was a thread on here about one of the sellers doing a bait and switch. He is showing a Hot Rods crank in the auction, but what you get is not a Hot Rods crank. I asked him about this and he denied it and got hostile when I pointed out the differences between what he was shipping out and a true Hot Rods crank. I had not bought one, I was just pointing out what the member on here received. You can get a Hot Rods crank welded from them but it costs extra. You can also get a stock crank rebuilt pretty cheap as long as the webs are not damaged, which it sounds like yours were, so a new crank was the right decision.

My dealer said that paddles do not allow the tires to spin causing to much stress on the crankshaft which leads to the crank spreading and failing. I was told this when I was buying my wife's new 96. That was the response to the question of why doesn't Yamaha weld the crank at the factory. Actually, they said Yamaha does not see this as a problem on a stock bike and I said that I have seen it on a stock bike with paddles and they said that is a modified bike by Yamaha's definition and it wouild void the warranty. Luckily none of the bikes that I bought new had problems under the 3 month warranty that Yamaha put on their 2 stroke ATVs, and I new that my bikes would be getting modified so I did not purchase any kind of extended warranty because I knew it would end up being voided by the mods.

You will need a complete TORS removal kit- it will include a new throttle cable to match your throttle(twist or thumb), 2 new carb tops, 2 idle screws with locknuts, a tap for the idle screws and maybe a drill bit and some instructions. You will need to disconnect the TORS wiring at the carbs, thumb throttle and the control box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil. You will then remove your carbs, disassemble them, grind down flat the boss on the side of the carb where the idle screw will be installed, drill and tap the carb, clean the carb and re assemble them with the new round top instead of the TORS top. You will then have to adjust the idle speed and sync the carbs. You will gain much easier access to your carbs and other things on the bike for maintenance, and you will not have to worry about the TORS failing and causing the bike not to run, that is especially good when you are out in the middle of nowhere.

DO NOT RUN INJECTOR OIL IN A BANSHEE. I used to run Benol my Banshees, but I had problems with carbon buildup on the piston and rings in my wife's bike. I switch to the Klotz R50 oil and have had no problems since. I run it at 40:1, that is a 1 pint bottle to 5 gallons of gas. I have used this for 15 years and had no problems, I've never lost a crank with it and my top ends last a long time. R50 is pure synthetic and the Supertechniplate is synthetic with a little Benol in it, both are good oil. Alot of guys swear by Amsoil, but you have to find a dealer for it. With Klotz, you can walk into most any bike shop and get it. You can switch if you want just run the tank and carbs dry before you put the new stuff in. I also recomend the Klotz Flex Drive 30(part numberKL506) for the transmission- my bike shifts better with it than anything else, there is never any "glitter" in the oil when I drain it, and I have had no failures with any bearings, gears, or even a clutch ball welding itself to the pushrod using it. T6s are OK if you intend to do NOTHING else to the bike, T5s would be a much better pipe if you intend to do more mods down the road. You may not think you are going to do more down the road, but sooner or later everbody does more to their Banshee.

I know there are aftermarket boots available to connect the airbox to bigger carbs, but I don't know who has them. I would Googlr Banshee airbox boots or try FAST, Cascade, or some of the other vendors, maybe Modquad.

Mine has been this way for at least 16 years, I also have a cut and chambered stock head and I run 2 gals of 108 or 110 octane race gas to 3 gals of 93 octane pump and it works great.

Slimy white chunks are what you get when water mixes with some oils. Did you use factory base gaskets that have the silicone bead on them. If you did not then you just spent the money you saved by getting cheap aftermarket gaskets. It just about has to be either the head gasket or the plug on the bottom of the cylinder, that is the only way for coolant to get in the cylinder.

If you are going to hone it, you will definitely want to get new rings because honing it will ruin the seating of the rings. If all you do is hone it, you will need to get rings that are the same size. If you don't want to buy rings, then leave it alone and put it back together.. If I was doing it, I would give the cylinders a LIGHT hone just to break the glaze AND THEN MEASURE THE PISTONS WITH A MICROMETER AND THE CYLINDERS WITH A BORE GAUGE. If the clearances check out, then I would buy a new set of rings, CHECK THE RING GAP IN THE CYLINDER, file as needed and install them. You will also need to check the chamfer in the ports after honing. If the clearances don't check out or the ring gap is to big then you will need to bore it and get oversize pistons and rings

The two wires that go to the key have to be spliced together, every thing else can just be unplugged- the TORS, headlights taillight, brakelight if you have it, even the switch on the left handlebar can just be unplugged. If you wanted to, you could splice the key switch wires at the harness side of the CDI plug in the rear to get rid of more wires. Just get a wiring diagram and see what wires go where and what you want to get rid of.

All they have to say is the part caused the engine to make more power than it was designed for or it caused more stress than the bike was designed to handle. Some of the reasons I have heard are-riding 2 people on it put to much load on the frame, suspension or engine, running paddle tires puts too much load on the crankshaft and causes it to spread, any aftermarket air filter allows to much dirt to pass OR to much air to pass and damages the engine.

If you don't have a crossover tube, you need to make sure your carbs are synced PERFECTLY. The purpose of the crossover tube is to balance out any differences in flow from one side of the engine to the other. If you are not running a crossover or balance tube then I would definitely get the sync tool from FAST abd use it.

The TORS will definitely affect the spark, it's purpose is to kill the spark when your throttle slides stick, it is not a rev limiter in any way. The only rev limiter is the one tied to the park brake. However the TORS is notorius for going bad and not letting the bike run at all.

If you are asking where these are at, then the first thing you need to do is get a manual, and read the trouble shooting section. Did you unwrap your wire harness and actually look at each individual wire? There are multiple threads on here about weak or no spark, use the search and read them. You will need to use an ohmmeter to check your stator and coil per the manual. You will also need to check your pickup coil with the ohmmeter and then also check the pickup coil air gap. I don't know about the Clymers manual, but the Yamaha manual has a flow chart to trouble shoot a "no spark" problem. there is also a pinned document on here in the technical info section on the electrical system that will help you learn about how your bike works.

There are an awful lot of people that are more than stock, but less than cub. As it is right now, I don't even know what determines your rank. Besides, why do we neeed a rank- we are all members, some are premium and some are not. And it seems like most people form their opinion based on your post count.