bansheesandrider

Get the chain slider to go around the pivot tube and you need to have at least the lower roller on the frame. I have been running mine this way ever since I took my AMP link off. The factory roller thing that goes around the pivot tube does not lasr very long and when it wears through, then your chain is sawing into your swingarm.

This one is a guy in Florida, not the ones from Hong Kong. The thread on the Hong Kong one the guy was happy with it and siad it was identical to the Boss unit. No info on the one from Florida, but it could be the same as the one from Hong Kong, this guy might have bought a large number of them to import and resell himself.

CheapCylceParts.com RideNow Powersports Apache MOtorcyles These are the cheapest sources for OEM parts that I know of. If they don't have it in stock they can get it quickly. their sites all have an OEM parts lookup and you can get parts for most makes from any of them.They all have websites you can order from. The harnesses are broken into 4 groups: 87-94 which have the round plugs, 95-95 which have square plugs, 97-01 which have the square plugs and the wire for the park brake rev limiter, and 02-06(in USA) that have the square plugs, park brake rev limiter AND brake light wiring. I also believe that the terminals inside the plugs are different between the round and square plugs.

I know the pressure plate moves very little- definitely less than a 1/4 inch and probably more like a 1/8 inch. I run 3 stock springs and 3 HD springs in mine so it is not so hard to pull. Try putting 3 stockers in alternating between stock and heavy duty and see if it is better. Or, if you need to you can do 4 HD and 2 stock, just put then opposit each other.

Are you talking about the stud into the cylinders or the nuts to the studs to hold the head on? If you are talking about the studs into the cylinder, then yes use some LOctite. If you are talking about the nuts to hold the head on, then no, do not use threadlocker. But you should go back and retorque your head when it is hot a couple of times till the nuts don't move when you torque them.

There is not timing in the traditional sense, it will only go together one way. The stator only fits the cases one way, the flywheel only fits the crank one way, and since it is a waste spark system that fires BOTH cylinders at the same time at BOTH TDC and BDC, it does not matter which cylinder is "timed".You don't even need to put a timing light on it, unlike a car which you can install the distributor in different positions, the rotor inside the distributor in different positions and then have to sync it all together. Hell, you don't even have to time a newer car that has distributorless ignition, the ECU is self timing, you can put a light on it to check it but you can't change it, unless you modify something. Unless this guy has a coil problem, it is probably in his carbs. He needs to clean his carbs, make sure the float bowls have not been crossed from left carb to right carb, put them back on making sure everything is in good shape and hooked up properly including the choke cross over tube, and then sync them.

I have been using Klotz Flex Drive 30(part number KL506) for about the last 17 years or so. I had tried moter oil, ATF Type F, Hondaline tranny oil and BelRay GearSaver before that. With the motor oil and ATF it was hard to shift and when I drained it there was "glittter" in the oil, I even split the cases to see if there was a problem but did not find anything. I then tried the BelRay and that was better as far as shifting and glitter. When my dealer was out of BelRay, I tried the Honda oil and the shifting SUCKED, it was not in there long enough to tell about the glitter. I then had an independent shop recomend the Klotz and I have been using it ever since. My bike shifts great with it and there is never any glitter in it when I drain it, it looks almost as good coming out as it did going in. I have not had any tranny or clutch problems- my Toomey clutch plates looked almost new the last time I was in there, I have never welded a clutch ball in any of the 3 Banshees or 2 Blaster we have owned, never lost any gear or bearings, etc. I think it is the best thing out there, but it is not cheap and I now have to mail order it from Rocky Mt. ATV to get it. I keep enough in the trailer that I can change both Banshees and the Blaster(all the bikes we currently own) on the road if I have to and I keep enough at home to do it again. I have an hourmeter on my bike and change mine every 20 hours and do the other 2 bikes as I see fit, they don't get the hours mine does.

PRM makes one like this, but I don't think this is a PRM unit. The weight may be a factor if you are tearing it up, but if the tank doesn't hold enough fuel to get you where you want to go, then you have to do something. When I was at St. Anthonys Dunes in Idaho, I could just get from Desert Oasis campground out to Choke Cherry Jill and back with my bike. I have a quick detach six pack rack on the wife's bike that we caryy a 2.5 gal. jug in, the six pack part comes off by pulling 1 pin and then it is basically a normal grab bar. I got it from a guy on Ebay, he makes them for several models. It is a home made deal, but with a little cleanup work it is presentable, I rounded off some corners, etc. to make it look better and if I had a TIG and knew how to use it, I might have redone a couple of welds also, but it does do what I bought it for and that is carry extra gas when we need it and not be there when we don't.

What does the overflow bottle have to do with jetting? If anything, it has to do with the temp. My wife's bike with FMF Fattys and a Toomey 2 into 1 K&N style filter ran 290 mains, 27.5 pilots, stock needle with the clip in the middle and we are usually riding from sea level to 1000 feet. It was jetted as perfect as I could tell.

Normally, hiting water will cause it to die out if you suck enough in. If you suck to much, it will hydrolock the engine, causing damage to the rods, pistons, cylinders, head and possibly evev the crank and cases.

Craptor plastic robs the Banshee of it's identity and anybody that puts that CRAPtor shit on a Banshee should be ran off this website.Every time I see a bike wearing this stuff I laugh that somebody would make their bike look like that on purpose.

My wife's first Banshee was FMF Fatttys, and a Toomey 2 into 1 K&N style air filter. At home we are 220 feet and in the Oregon Dunes we are at sea level. Her bike was jetted spot on with 290 mains, 27.5 pilots, clip in the middle of the needle. I am not sure of the air screw, just adjusted it till it was right.

I posted in this thread the problems I had when I did mine 2 years ago and I was using BR8ES plugs the whole time.Also, when you are tearing the dunes up, it is difficult to read the tach and your eyes should really be on your surroundings- that is the reason I am using the Vector, it is the same thing as the Vapor without the tach and the resetting problems.

Why would you break down the crank you just bought? Was it used or new? If it was a new crank, you don't need to break it down, just get it trued and welded if it is not already, it should only cost $100. If it was used, I would not put it in without a complete tear down and inspection and rebearing and trued and welded.The only thing you can tell for sure about anassembled crank is what the clearances are. A bearing can look fine and fail right away and when a crank lets go it can damage alot of other parts. It costs less in the long run to do it right the first time.

Most bike that are running stock carbs don't need more than 27.5 pilots. My wife's bike with pipes and an open air filtr runs 27.5s, my bike with a cut and chambered head, dune port, pipes, timing, ported reed cageswith Boyesen reeds, and +4 timing, and carbs bored to 28mm runs 27.5s also.

The book is correct, there is a shoulder on the bolts that keeps them from getting to tight and leaves clearance for the clutch to operate.

Mine from Cascade are billet aluminum. Never had any problems with them.

First off, Klotz and Belray do not make ATF type F. Second all ATF type F is pretty much the same as the standard is the type f part, so if it is type f it is the same. Dexron/Mercon ATF is a different oil, you can't tell the difference by looking at it, but the friction modifiers in the oil are different to match the different composition frictions that GM used in their trannys. Type F was for the old style C4 and C6 trannys that Ford used to use and they had a different composition friction plate than what GM used, hence the F was for Ford. Current Fords use frictions similar to GM and therefore use Mercon ATF- Ford could not call it Dexron as GM has that copyrighted, but it is the same spec.

I had FMF pipes and a Toomey 2 into 1 air filter and it needed 270 mains and 27.5 pilots, it needed the 27.5 pilots with just the air cleaner. Also check your reed petals,that can make it backfire and not run on a cylinder. It definetly sounds like it could be a fuel problem but your compression is a little low also. When you cleaned the carb, did you pull all the jets out and blow air through all the passages and make sure that they are open? One other p[ossibility is the float bowls got mixed up, they are different from the left carb to the right carb. Good luck.

I agree that having it properly tuned makes all the difference in the world, no matter what parts are in it.

Have you tried increasing your idle speed by turning the screws in further? When the TORS eliminator kit was installed did you grind enough off of the side if the carb where it was drilled and tapped for the screws? Once you have the angle flattened out you usually need to take another1/8 of an inch off of it. The screws have to go into the angled slot in the slide to adjust idle speed by moving the slide up. I would clean your carbs, making sure you have the correct float bowls on the correct carb, the left is different from the right. Make sure your idle screws go in far enough to properly adjust the idle speed. Put the carbs together, screw in the idle screws till they just touch the ramp on the slides and then turn them 1/2 turn more. Start the bike, and adjust the idle screws EQUALLY until you achieve the desired idle speed and then tighten the locknuts. Turn the bike off and with the air filter removed, stick one finger inthe back of each carb so you can feel the slides. Open the throttle and see if the slides move at the same time. You will need to lengthen the screw on the top of the carb that is opening slow until they are opening at the same time. When the slides slam closed, you should only hear one click, not two. Make sure the cable has a little free play and you are set.

Stock carbs are only 26mm unless they have been bored out, so that accounts for part of the difference.

Yes, they qiut working, some of them have problems with high RPM misfires, and some of the Ricky Staor ones don't even work when they are installed out of the box. Ricky Stator used to make their stuff in the USA, but they switched to China manufacturing and their quality went to shit. Stay away from Ricky Stator, or RM Stator which looks like a renamed Ricky Stator. There are multiple threads on here about this. If you have to have a big stator, try Moose, Electrix or Electrosp[ort, I have a hunch these are all from the same manufacturer, but they are the ones that I have heard the least bad news about. I was going to do a large stator, DC conversion with a battery, but I am now looking into some light that will work with just a DC conversion and a battery, because my wife wants some LED park lights so she does not get hit when she is parked watching us race the hill at night.

You can do it if you have to, but Yamaha recomends a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze. If you live where the temp gets below 32 degrees then you are compromising you freeze protection. Remember a Banshee has a very small cooling system compared to your car or truck, so a cup can be a substantial percentage. Some guys on here run straight water but I would not, antifreeze also has anticorrosion protection in it. You can say you will antifreeze later, but will you remember before it is too late in the winter. Personally, I would do away with the overflow bottle, run the hose that used to go to it down the frame tube behind the radiator and cut it off at the bottom of the frame and zip tie it down. Fill the radiator up, start the bike and let it come up to temp and burp out what it needs to and call it good. That is the way my bike has been for the last 18 years with no problems. I also change my coolant every 2 years in all my bikes so there is absolutely no corrosion in the system anywhere.

No one has mentioned this but your air screws have nothing to to with the wide open fuel mixture. They only affect idle and maybe just off idle. Also, if it is electrical, it could be your stator, flywheel, coil, it could even be a wire shorting out some where. Normally the TORS will not cause it to sputter, they normally just won't run at all. But, if it is a 1997 or newer, the park brake rev limiter could be causing the problem.