bansheesandrider

Of course it held pressure, the schrader valve in the end of the gauge kept the gauge from loosing pressure, but you could still be losing pressure at the adapter.

Banshees don't have transfer cases, they are only on 4WD vehicles. Do you mean your ENGINE case? If you do, it depends on where and how bad the damage is. If it just broke the upper case that hangs over the sprocket it is no big deal. If it broke the cases bad enough to leak, or that the bearings,shafts, or seals are not adequately supported, then you are going to have to replace your cases or have them welded up dependig on the damage. Also, there was a reason the chain came off- either it was loose or wore out, or you have bad axle bearings or something else is wrong.

X2,I have seen to many broken skirts on stock pistons to not use a good piston(Wiseco).

I admit I did not read the linked thread,I have had far better luck with DID chains than I did with the RK chain I used to run. Just my .02 and opinion based on the expierences I have had.

Actually the stroke is the distance from the center of the main journal to the center of the rod pin TIMES 2.The stock rod are 110mm. You can get 110 rods on a stroker or a stocker, you can get 115 rods on bothe a stocker or a 4mil stroker.

They used it because they were getting paid to use it, it's all about the money.

I would only use a .125 wheel if you are fairly light and don't do much jumping. Hell my wife bent the last set of .125s that I put on her bike on the first ride without even getting any air.

I have been in multiple shops that sell both Modquad parts and Cascade parts- Florence Yamaha and Parker's ATV are the first 2 that come to mind. As I have said before, Cascade is a great place to get seat covers and bling, but there are far more trustworthy and better engine builders out there.

Wrong again, TORS has been on every Banshee made starting in 1987. You are right about the J arms from 1987 to 1990 and then the A arms from 1991 to 2006. I would recomend that you buy the newest bike that is in good shape as Yamaha did make some minor improvements over the years, such as changing spring rates and adding a brake light in 2002, etc.

It should be trued before it is welded. Any good welder would be able to weld it, but you need someone that isfamiliar with crank work to true it properly and make sure it is in phase.

Just get a stocker from where ever it is convienent. They work and they are reliable if taken care of. Some guys on here have had problems with the Motion Pro cable not being the right lenght and having problems with getting the clutch adjusted and working right.

The stock Banshee stator is AC only with an external voltage regulator, the regulator is mounted at the rear of the bike next to the CDI box. The stock stator puts out enough power to run 2 35W headlights, a taillight and a brake light.If you need more power, I would take your stator to a repair facility and have it rewound for more power. DO NOT buy a stator from RM Stator or Ricky Stator as they are made in China crap. Some guys claim that the Moose Racing stator is OK and the one from Electrosport looks just like it, like Electrosport is the supplier to Moose, but I don't know that for sure. I don't know anything about the Zeeltronics CDI, will it work withAC power or do you have to do a DC conversion to use it. If it needs DC power, I would just run a Banshee compatible box, either an OEM or a DYNA if you want to play with timing curves. Good Luck.

You have to have freeplay in the cable to keep it from changing the idle speed when the bars are turned. If you have freeplay then the carb slides are bottomed out and it won't idle. If you adjust the idle at the bars, you are removing the freeplay. If you adjust it at the carbs you don't change the freeplay, just the slides position so it will idle. Yes, your way will raise the idle, but it is the wrong way to do it. Why else would Yamaha put an idle adjustment on the carb or would Motikon Pro make a kit to resore the adjustment at the carb when the TORS is removed?

When I ran Yamalube I was fouling plugs continuously, the bike smoked alot and I had a crank seperate and tear up my motor. I realize that the crank seperating is not reallt the oils fault, but I think there are far better oils that protect your engine from damage. I have been running Klotz R50 for the last 15+ years and I like it much better- I have 7+ years on my current topend and it has lost 10 pounds of compression in that time, I rarely foul a plug and the bike smokes very little. Everytime I have had my cylinders off, the bottom end has a nice film of oil on everything.

WRONG, you adjust the idle speed by the screws on the tops of the carbs if you still have the TORS tops and if the TORS has been deleted properly, then you adjust the idle by the screws that were added on the sides of the carb. The only time you adjust idle speed by the cable is if the TORS tops were removed and the screws were NOT added to the sides of the carbs. The problem with that is your idle speed can change when the bars are turned.

From what I heard they have already called it quits. After Arlan Lehman sold the company he was still working there. Then he got tired of putting up with the new owner's bullshit so he quit and started his own new company, LED, Lehman Engine Development.

Putting a 12 on the front is a pretty tight bend for the chain and will make it wear pretty fast. I would go up on the rear sprocket instead of down on the front.

The only carbs that have ever been on my bike are the ones that Yamaha put on it when it was new. They have been bored to 28mm for the last 17 years or so and work awesome, plus I can get parts for them anywhere. On a 350, big carbs are way overrated and totally unnecessary, you just end up with a motor that is real boggy on the bottom end of the powerband.f you learn how a carb works and take the time to dial them in the stockers work great.

It is a rev limiter because it cuts out spark when the PB is set and the bike will only rev to about 1/4 or 1/3 of its maximum RPM. It does not shut off the spark completely like the TORS system does, it limits RPM. It is called a Park Brake Rev LImiter in the factory Yamaha service manual.

I would check all your electrical connections and make sure you have no shorted wires. It sounds like it is losing spark for some reason. One time mine lost spark, I towed it back to the truck, tore everything apart and as I was about to start checking things with an ohmmeter, I found the orange wire to the coil hanging off. I put it back on but it was loose. The spade terminal had loosened up where it slid onto the coil terminal. I was able to bend down the tabs on the terminal and tighten it up. My point here is make sure all connectors have a GOOD connection.

The TORS system does not limit RPM, when it is activated it shuts down the ignition system completely. If you have a CDI box failure the bike is not going to run anyway so there is no need to shut it down.

The rev limiter only works when the parking brake is set. It is there to keep you from riding the bike with the parking brake set. It is usually a green with yellow wire in the CDI box plug and if you want to remove it just cut it at the plug on the bike harness side, not the CDI box side of the plug. That will keep the wire from shorting to ground and limiting RPM.

Well, this is a Banshee forum and we are talking about Banshees here. I would get a genuine Yamaha seal and give your shaft a good inspection for grooves and do it sober. If the shaft is grooved you will need to replace it.

No, it is not part of ther TORS system. The TORS system has it's own control box and the rev limiter is built into the CDI box on 97 and newer bike only. All years of Banshees came with the TORS systen, but only 97 and newer bike have the rev limiter connected to the park brake.If you look at the wiring diagrams for the different years and trace where the wires go, you will see this. Also, hooking up the tether to the coil so it shorts it can lead to a damaged CDI box. It should be connected to the wire that went to the Off/Run Switch and short to ground there.

Most, if not all aftermarket pipes use the stock size springs. Toomey silencers are meant to have a hanger that looks like a miniature version of the front pipe hanger and the only place I know to get them is Toomey. I am not sure, but I think Modquad make some for Toomey silencers but they don't have the rubber flex joint, they are solid alum.