bansheesandrider

If you wait, you will be taking a chance on it grenading and you will have to buy $30-40 worth of gaskets that you have just bought.

If you have an air leak it IS running lean. It may have been properly jetted before, but once an air leak develops it is getting more air and is running lean. Before you pull the head, I would do a leakdown test to see if you have any air leaks and then pull it down and do a topend job and fix any other problems you have.

X3, I have ran nothing but a K&N since day one on my 89, first one in the airbox and for the last 19 years a Toomey 2n1 setup with a K&N element. I also have them on the wife's and kid's bike. I have never lost a motor because of dirt passing the filter. As long as it is properly oiled and has a good outerwear on it, they are the best filter for riding in the dunes. I also have a K&N in the stock airbox of my truck and there is never any dirt in the intake tract of it either.

You can eliminate the problems the TORS causes by unplugging the wires at the carbs and thumb throttle and then unplugging the TORS control box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil. This disables the TORS system and the bike will run like it is not there at all, but you still have the big, ugly carb tops there in the way. The only way to get rid of them is to buy the eliminator kit, or at least the carb tops and new cable. Then you will have no way to adjust your idle speed, unless you buy the idle screw kit.

My crank seperated and let go with nothing more than a set of pipes and paddle tires(stock bore and pistons). I won't run a Banshee without welding the crank after that expierence. If the crank lets go, it will cost you around $700 to repair the damage, assuming you can repair the head/dome you have and there is not any major damage to the cases.

The mark is going to cause your rings to leak. The other problem I see here if you are not boring it to the new pistons is that cast pistons require more piston to cylinder clearance than a forged piston does. This means that the Wisecos will have too much clearance when you put it together and you will have piston slap. Anytime you replace cast pistons with forged pistons in a Banshee, you need to bore the cylinders to have proper clearance to the forged pistons.

The hole in the case behind the left cylinder does NOT get a vent. If you look at that hole, you will see that it goes all the way through the bottom case and is open to the ground. It is there to give a drain for the crud that accumalates on top of the cases under the carbs. The case vents in the rear of the upper case under the rear motor mount, and there is a second case vent comming out of the clutch cover by the water pump. Hope this helps you.

That sounds like a box from Rick's Electrics, at least that is what the one I bought from them looked llike. Not to jinx you, but mine quit working with less than 10 hours ride time on it. They did replace it under warranty after a major hassle and threatening to post on here about them. Just my .02.

I only mentioned it because everybody on here always brings it up. I ran my bike for about 7 years with one end of the coil mounted with an insulated wiring loom clip because 1 mounting ear broke off the frame. The last time I did a frame up rebuild I rewelded the bracket back on and mounted it factory style again,but I had no problems with spark when it was mounted with the insulated clip. But, several posters on here claim their bikes run much better with the mounts being bare metal and it is just easier to mention it to begin with. Several people on here have had no spark issues with RS stators brand new out of the box.

It also sounds to me like the slides are in the wrong carbs. I strongly recomend that when you are working on the carbs, you only take one apart at a time and/or you mark which carb the parts came from as there are differences in the two carbs.

Get the specs for the coil and check it out with an ohmmeter. When you check the secondary resistance make sure you hook one lead from the meter to each plug wire, not one to a wire and one to ground like most books tell you to do. If you can get the specs for the RS staor you can also check it with an ohmmeter, the ignition and pickup specs should be the same as stock, only the lighting side of the stator should be different and that is not part of your current problem. Also, check your pickup coil gap, make sure your flywheel is good, that the coil is mounted to bare metal as that is the ground for the coil, or that you have no bare or shorted wires. If everything that I have mentioned checks out, then see if you can borrow a CDI box from a buddy to swap and see if that is the problem. Either the Dyna or Nology coils are decent coils to use.

The Banshee script looks similar to the style that Trail Tech uses, I would try them. I know they make bar clamps.

Does anybody know where I can get marine grade vinyl in a zebra print pattern? I have already contacted Cascade and they said they could make a seat cover for the wife's bike if I can come up with the material, but that they have never been able to come up with the print themselves.

At a minimum, you will have to pull the clutch cover, clutch basket and shift shaft to change the bushing. But if a worn bushing is the cause of your seal leaking, then a new seal probably won't help. The bushing will have to much play and will side load the new seal and cause it to leak also.

Your bearings are probably corroded to the spindle. I would use an axle flange puller to put pressure on it and then smack the pressure screw of the puller with a hammer to jar it loose.

From what I have heard, he can do any of his designs to fit the Maier cover.

JDS Customs has a couple of grilles on his website for the Maier radiator cover, and from what I have read if you can give him a drawing of what you want he can make it for you.

I have been using it since 1995 in at least 4 different bikes,one of which I started with and still have and 2 that we replaced. I have had ABSOLUTELY no problems, I have never lost a bearing, or crank. My 89, which I have owned since it was new, has at least 7 years on the top end and has only lost 10 psi of compression in that time. Before I ran R50, I ran Benol, but I had problems with carbon buildup in the rings of the wife's Blaster( injector removed).

Where are you actually buying these from? The reason I ask is Fullbore is located in Portland, Oregon and that is more than 5 hours from Pennsylvania. I am not sticking up for them because I actually don't like their "race face" plastic, I prefer the traditionasl Banshee look. Also, right now they probably have their hands full getting ready for Sandfest, as the company's head man is one of the organizers of that event.

The seat itself may not go bad, but the o ring around the outside of it that seals it to the carb body will go bad. You can't get that O ring without the seat, I tried some O rings out of a universal O ring kit. They worked for awhile and then it started leaking again and I ended up buying new needle and seat assemblies.

Usually you will se white smoke coming out of the exhaust but not always. That is a pretty small amount of coolant. How full are you filling the overflow bottle? If it is too full it will force out some coolant when the bike gets real hot and then appear that it is low when the bike cools off some. Most people do away with the overflow bottle and run the hose that use to go to it down the frame tube by the front motor mounts and cut it off just below the bottom of the frame. My personal bike has been this way for 18+ years and every bike I have bought since is done this way also.

Even the early bikes had to have a jumper wire installed. If you study any Banshee wiring diagram it shows the 2 wires going to the key as being connected when the key is on. It is possible that the key blew out if it was left in the off position while hauling the bike. I made a non stop trip once and when I arrived home, I found the key laying on the back of the trailer next to the tailgate/ramp. I did have a key fob on it so now when I haul the bikes, I leave the key switches in the run position. I tried taking the keys out when I haul them, but after arriving at tne ride spot 1 time and finding that I left the key at home, I now leave them in the bike and leave the switch on.

You can get a new key switch and be back in business. Be warned though that there are at least three different plug styles for the key switch depending on year. The last one I bought of Ebay was supposed to be for the year I needed, but when I recieved it, it turns out that somebody had spliced my style plug on a different year switch. When I confronted the seller he said that it came off that year Banshee and he knew nothing more about it. I would recomend just buying a new one for your year bike.

With a hose on it. the hose should t into the one coming from the clutch cover and then be routed up by the handlebars.

X2 on this. If it wobbles visibly then it is going to cause vibration and it could cause the end of the crank to snap off.