bansheesandrider

Also verify that the water is not coming in where the wire harness leaves the stator. I had to RTV the grommet into the case and also squirt some RTV into the wires where they go into the grommet to get my stator to stay dry.

Get on the website for Yamaha in Europe and see if you can look up the part number for it, then take the number to your local dealer and try to order it. They may tell you they can't get that part though as it is not to be imported to the USA.

While a piston may be frozen, it probably won't be stuck to the bore. It has probably siezed becuase you had incorrect clearances, it was not broke in properly, or you ran it lean and/or overheated it.

You need to use a factory bolt on the pressure plate as they have a shoulder on them so that they tighten up and put the correct load on the springs. Get a manual as it will tell you everything you need to know about all the adjustments you need to make, except TORS removal.

We put a Magura on my buddy's bike, it worked great and there was no problem with clutch slippage, but he had 3 Toomey springs in it. The only problem we had was that on the second ride, the plastic tubing got on his pipe and melted. So we had to upgrade to the braided line kit which if I had known about we would have done when we put it on.

I run it at 40:1. The Supertechniplate has about 10% Benol added to the R50 formula. Benol is awesome oil if you run your bike hard or use alcohol, but I ran regular Benol before I started using R50 abd I was having problems with carbon buildup in the wife's bike. I switched to R50 about 15 years ago and have had zero problems since- no carbon buildup, no cranks going bad and my current topend has 7 years and has only lost 10 psi on the compression gauge.

I know of no seperate reservoirs at all. I have the ASVs mounted to my stock reservoir and it works great. Why do you want to seperate them? If they were seperated, what happens when one of them gets knocked out of alignment with the other part, you have no brakes?

I believe that Lonestar makes a hub that is Yamaha splines with a Honda bolt pattern. That is the only option I know of, but you could also check DuraBlue, RPM, or some of the other drivetrain/suspension manufacturers.

If it doesn't matter, why are all coils marked either + and - or Dist. and Batt. Even Banshee ciols have a + and - if you look closely. That being said, I believe that Banshees come with the orange wire on the front terminal which I beleive is marked -. I am not trying to argue with anybody, I would like some input on this as I read somewhere that you should switch the orange wire to the + terminal.

The slides will physically fit in either carb, but they will only be propely installed in the barb that they belong in. If they are in the wrong carb, they will be backwards and the bike runs like shit.

No, it is a vent to allow air to get above the slide so it does not become vacumn locked at wide open, or to allow air to escape from above the slide when you go to wideopen.

I have had excellent luck with Stabil also. I usually don't put it in every jug of fuel, but come late summer or fall I usually put it in all the bike gas because I don't know when the next time I will use it. I also put it in the lawnmower, pressure washer, weedwhacker over the winter and everything I use it in starts right up in the spring with no problems. I did work on a customers Raptor this spring that did not have it in it and the carbs were a total mess with all kinds of deposits in them.

And if you are listening to it, you will know when to shut it off so it does not run away. I have never had a problem with mine running away in the 21 years I have owned it. I have also never lost a crankshaft or topend from running out of fuel either.

X2, with the exception of the Dyna most aftermarket CDI boxes are not as reliable as a stock replacement. And I said MOST.

I am talking about a RETHREADING die not a CUTTING die.

WTF are you talking about?

Yes thread files come in metric. If you want a rethreading die you will have to go to a Snap On truck or Mac, Matco,etc. I would not use a tap and die set from Harbor Freight, you might end up with a bigger mess than you have now.

I can't find a better deal on a good crank that is trued and welded. Yes I can find new cranks that are less money, but they are not trued and welded so you have to have that done and around here that is $75-$100. Plus Twister is local to me and I don't have to pay shipping. I would rather have my crank rebuilt than buy some POS crank from China or Korea.

I am not 100% sure but I believe each pound of pressure raises the boiling point 3 degrees. If it is shut down as soon as it boils and it only happens once very little engine damages occurs. If it is running at 220 or more all of the time, your rings will start losing their tension and compression will drop.

,50mm and .020" are the same dimension, one is expressed in the metric system and one is expressed in the American Standards system. Also, your PISTON is not bored out, it is your CYLINDER that is bored out.

Why not just turn the fuel petcock to off and run the carbs out of fuel? The remaining fuel in the carbs will be an insignifigant amount.

When you drilled and tapped the carbs for the idle screws, did you grind off about 1/8 to 3/16s of the carb body so the screws can go in far enough to actually move the slides? Just removing the TORS should not require any jetting changes, assuming you got the slides back in the correct carbs. You can put either slide in either carb but if thet are not in the correct carb then they will be installed backwards.

You will need the stock thumb throttle and the Motion Pro cable from their TORS removal kit. A stock cable wil NOT work if the TORS caps have been removed from the carbs.

From what I read in my Yamaha manual, you are outside the specs for a new unit but you are still within the factory service limits, meaning you can run the crank for awhile longer. But my expierence has been that a crank can let go at any time with no warning, based on that I would send the crank to Twister. They will rebuild it with new rods, thrust washers and all bearings and then true and weld it for around $350-$375. You will then have a good reliable crank that won't let you down.

If you had a factory service manual, it would tell you the threads are 12X1.25 and the torque spec is 58 foot pounds. I would try to find a RETHREADING die to chase the threads. A rethreadind die will try to reshape the existing metal back into good threads and not just cut new threads.