bansheesandrider

X3, and while you are in there check and make sure your flywheel is still good.

Some of the aftermarket billet stator covers use either a paper gasket or an O ring, instead of the rubber OEM gasket.

Check the grommet where the wires exit the stator case. There should be a sleeve extending up the harness about 4 inches, but they get rotten and dont always seal. After I have installed the stator and flywheel and done any adjustments or whatever, I usually squirt a bunch of silicone RTV in between the wires and grommet and between the grommet and case and anywhere else that I think that water could get in around where the wires exit.

Are you testing the coil properly? The book says to check the secondary with the meter leads hooked to 1 plug wire and to ground. THAT IS WRONG, you should hook one meter lead to EACH plug wire and check the secondary resistance. The way the book describes is the correct way for a single cylinder coil or a coil that is used with a distributor. On a Banshee that fires both plugs at the same time, you need to check it the way I have described, also on cars that use coil packs you check them that way.

If you need a CDI box stay with the factory unit or go with a DYNA unit. Most everything else out there is unreliable crap. I had to buy a Rick's Electrics CDI box when I went to St Anthonys 2 years ago because it was the only thing I could get while I was there. When I came home it failed with less than 10 hours on the bike/box. They did warranty it but I now just carry it for a spare.

That pushrod is probably hardened and when you use a drill bit on it you are going to end up with a bunch of broken pieces in the hole.

Split the cases before you damage something else.

With the heavy equipment that I normally work on that is considered a tack weld and as I said it takes no time to remove it.

Also use Loctite on them. If you go with a slit style nut use it on both the axle threads and the pinch bolt threads.

Between my bike and the other bikes I work on,I have installed at least 5 cranks from Twister and had no problems with any of them. They TIG weld them and it is not more than 3/4 of an inch long, that in my opinion is a tack weld. I would not waste my money on a used time bomb. I can get a rebuilt crank that is trued and welded for less than $350 and that is good piece of mind, I have seen cranks taken out of brand new bikes that have lees than 20 hours on them that needed to have rod kits in them because they spread and screwed things up.

Because when a crank is trued and welded, the welds are nothing more than a tack weld that can be ground off in about 15 seconds to take the crank apart. A tack weld is all that is needed to ensure that the crank does not spread or twist.

I run a 50/50 mix of Prestone and distilled water with Water Wetter added per the instructions on the Water wetter bottle. When the ambient temp is between 70-85 degrees the bike is usually around 180-185 degrees as long as it is moving.

I recomend relocating the overflow bottle to the trash can. I took mine off the bike 19 years ago and have never had a problem with it not being there.

I have been running Water Wetter for years in my 50/50 prestone/water coolant mix. It works great and I have had no problems with it.

You might try getting a hold of LED, this is the company that Arlan Lehman started after he left LRD and the new owners ran it into the ground. Arlan is the original founder of LRD, Lehman Research and Development. I believe LED stands for Lehman Engine Development, and I think they are located somewhere in the Portland, OR metro area.

You should have said it was for something else as some other machines are left hand threads.

Yes you can just unplug the control box under the gas tank on the left side next to the coil to run your twist throttle. DO NOT buy the Vito's kit as the cable will not work with your twist throttle. Some twist kits come with a cable that leaves the stock TORS tops on the carbs, and some twist kits come with the new round tops. If your kit has the new tops with it, then all you need to purchase is the idle screw kit from Motion Pro.

That is your problem, you need to have a bearing that takes the clip to hold everything in position.

I run the Klotz Flex Drive 30, part number KL506. My bike shifts the best with it, I have never lost a bearing gear, or had a clutch ball weld on me with it.. In the past I have tried 10-30 motor oil, ATF type F, Hondaline tranny oil, BelRay GearSaver, and a couple of others. With the motor oil, ATF and Honda oils it shifted really crappy. With the motor oil and ATF ihad metallic glitter in the oil when I drained it, I even split the cases looking for a problem but could not find one. Put it back together and ran them again and it was still there, switched to the BelRay and it went away. When my dealer was out of BelRay, I tried the Klotz and it was so much better shifting and no glitter in oil that I have been using it ever since. I stongly recomend finding a good oil and sticking with it, whether it is in the tranny or premix oil. Not all oils are compatible with other oils and if you get the wrong combination from changing oils all the time, you will end up with no lubrication in your motor. When I change brands of oil, I drain it dry. If it is the tranny, I flushed before I put the new stuff in. I use the Klotz R50 as I had problems with carbon buildup and rings sticking in my wife's bike when I was running Benol.

Do you still have the park brake rev limiter on it? If so check for water in the switch by the clutch lever. You can disable it permanetely by cutting the green/yellow wire at the plug for the CDI box, just cut the wire on the bike side of the plug. Do not cut it on the CDI box side of the plug. It could also be a TORS problem, but that is less likely as the TORS will usually keep the bike from running at all.

I have never been there, but my expierence in the Oregon Dunes with Sandfest or Dunefest says that if you don't have reservations you won't have a place to camp. If you can get reservations, I would do it so you don't have to worry about it, and you can arrive when you want.

No that is a piece of crap from RM Stator, look at the sellers name. If you can't afford a new Yamaha stator, then buy a used Yamaha staor, it will be better than a new aftermarket one. There are only 2 part numbers for stator- one fits 87-94 and the other fits 95-06 USA bikes. You can identify a Yamaha stator by the grey coating on the windings.Moose stators seem to have the least amount of people complaining about them, and they look to be identical to the stators offered by Electrosport, which is probably the manufacturer for Moose.

There is NOT supposed to be any groove on the eccentric, if you old one was grooved then it was trashed. Yuo are supposed to turn the eccentric so the hooks on the shift shaft have equal gaps to the pins on the shift star, with it in gear, not in nuetral.

Stick with 8s for any kind of gasoline. If you have to go hotter or colder, there is something else wrong that you are trying to cover up or fix incorrectly, as long as you are running gasoline.

Did you properly adjust the shift shaft eccentric when you put it back together?