bansheesandrider

You will still have to do a DC conversion and with 30 watt HIDs you may need to have a battery to have enough power to get them to fire off.

The first ime I powder coated my frame it cost $100 and lasted about 5 years. The second time I did it, it cost me $200 for just the frame and it has been on there for about 12+ years.

You should always buy the best, you can go broke trying to save a buck. The cost to repair the damage from using inferior parts that fail far outweighs the savings of cheap parts.

First it is PITA not PETA, that's who looks out for animals(People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals). Now, to your problem, you could do a modded shift star,or the easy roller mod, or both. You could also do the FAST shift shaft mod yourself. One other question, what oil are you using? My bike shifted like crap, even with a modded shift star, when I used motor oil or ATF or Hondaline gear oil. It shifted OK with BelRay Gearsaver, but when I switched to Klotz Flex Drive 30 it made a huge difference and now I never have a problem shifting.

As long as you change both the bike and light sides of the connectors you can make it work, but I would use a connector that has 3 terminals in it and is dust,water, and oil-tight so you don't have problems with corrosion down the road. That is why I recomended the GM MetriPack connectors, you could also use Deutsch connectors. I would not just use the cheap bullet connectors, at least buy the good weatherproof bullet connectors that have the solder and water tight heat shrink on them.

Stock gearing for ALL years EXCEPT 87-88 is 14/41 and in 87-88 the stock gearing is 13/42, just don't want anybody to be confused.

90 psi means it is time for a rebuild.

When you put the lowers on, the shock mount on the a arm should line up with the shock mount on the frame. The uppers will only fit one way and clear the shocks. Also, on each arm you will notice that the ball joint is not centered straight out from the pivot tube, the offset of the upper arm will be the opposite of the lower arm on each side.

I prefer the stock style carrier. If you use a tapered bearing carrier with a roundhouse swingarm you lose about half of your chain adjustment. I am sold on the tapered bearing carrier because I have never had to replace the bearings since I put it on and before that I was replacing bearings every 10-12 months. Besides that, I am not lazy when it comes to adjusting my chain and don't mind dealing with a couple extra bolts, even some round housings have 4 bolts to deal with. One other thing that I think is important is it should have skidplate mounts.

One other advantage of boring stock carbs is you can walk into any Yamaha shop and get parts for them.

Go to jjandaracing.com, they have every thing you need. That is the website for JJ and A Racing.

That is the problem with an aluminum shifter, if it ever gets loose at all and you keep running it you will NEVER get it to tighten up. You bolt is probably not cross threaded, it just can't squeeze the shifter any tighter because the splines are wore. You might try taking it off, cutting the slot in it out wider and using a bolt that has threads ALL the way down.

My stock carbs are bored out to 28mm and work great. I know other carbs will make more power, but boring mine only cost me 35 bucks apiece instead of 300 plus for Keihins.I really can't say how big of gain they gave me because I did a complete build all at once- ported cylinders, cut and chambered head,bored and ProLite pistons,ported stock reed cages with Boyesen reeds and the bored carbs were all done at the same time.

87 and 88 supposedly have some kind of connectors but I have never seen them. My 89 that I bought brand new uses the bullet connectors with the clear tubing over them. I also know that 96 on uses a three wire connector and possibly that is what your 93 uses also. I also don't know what year the change was made but early light have a true glass lens and a plastic grille that can be removed. The later bikes have a plastic lens and the grille is part of it and has to be cut off. The plastic lenses also get scratched up and reduce light output, but as I said, I don't know the year the switch was made. The hot setup would be to use whatever year housings are the color you want, early style glass lenses, a set of 93 wiring pigtails to match your bike,remove the plastic grilles as they reduce light output, and then install theTusk light bulbs at $10 a side. PIAA also makes some bulbs that put out ALOT of light, but they are expensive. One other thing you could do is cut the plugs off of the bike and lights and use some GM MetriPack connectors that you can get at a good auto parts store, then you won't have to worry about matching plugs.

Their site says they are closed until Jan. 13, is that 2010 or 2011? Are they still in business? Just got home and checked the thread and have not done any research on them. Thanks

Cascade Innovations and Pro Design come to mind right away, but I personally think Pro Design is to proud of their stuff(price).

Thge purpose of a reed valve is to prevent reversion into the carb, not to build compression.To build compression, you have to have all holes entering or exiting the cyl. sealed off and there are no reed valves in the exhaust or tranfer ports.It builds compression by the piston blocking all ports as it comes to Top Dead Center.

I don't think they will have them for a Banshee.

bad gasket or O ring on head.

Put up a picture or a link so we know what you are talking about.

A dial caliper is not nearly as accurate as an outside micrometer, ther is to much flex in the mechanism and jaws that do the measuring. A dial caliper is great for quick and easy measurements to get an idea of the general size of things.

Try heating the hub with a torch and letting it cool, then see if you can drive the race out. And yes Warrior hubs have the same part number as Banshee hubs, at least for a 97 model.

87-90 have J arms, 91 on have A arms. wiring harnesses ran 87-94, 95-96, 97-2001, 2002-2006. CdI boxes follow the wire narness breaks except 97-2006 are all the same. Front brake master cylinders changed in 2002 when they added the big rear brake/tail light. Stators are 87-94 and 95-2006. Coils and voltage regulators are the same for all years. Most of the switches also follow the wire harnes breaks or are the same for all years All year front wheels are the same, the rear wheels and hubs are different in 89 and 90, all other years are the same. The rear sprocket uses 6 bolt from 89 on, the 87 and 88s use 4 bolts. There are other minor differnces over the year but all the big stuff pretty much interchanges.

That is a really inaccurate way of doing it. You should be using a bore gauge or inside micrometer to measure the cylinder, and you should be using an outside micrometer to measure the piston. If you are using Wiseco pistons you also need to know the correct place to measure them as they are oval shaped when they are cold and when they come up to temperature, they become round. This is because they have a steel strut in them that controls expansion.

Anybody else got any ideas on where to find the vinyl. I really don't want a seat cover with a bunch of extra seams from sewing together a bunch of black and white pieces.