bansheesandrider

If you are running any kind of gasoline(pump, race or avgas), always use a 8 heat range plug. If you are running alcohol, you can go to a 9 heat range.

Cascade doesn't make them, they buy them from somebody and resell them. It would cost more to have a custom set made than you could buy a good set of aluminum 1-1/8 bars. The selling point of V bars are the cost.

I am running a Trail Tech Vector- it is a speedometer, odometer, temp gauge, hourmeter, and several other functions. You splice their fitting into the coolant hose and it gets its power from a wire I splice into the light circuit before the switch.

The top of the piston got to hot from either being to lean or detonation or preignition. You now have aluminum in your bottom end from the piston- the top turned to liquid aluminum and sprayed all over your bottom end when it let go. You will need to get it cleaned out, I would split the cases and make sure that everything is up to spec since you don't know the history of this machine. When you put it back together, I would pull the carbs apart 1 at a time and clean them and throw in some bigger jets. Then you can do a plug chop and see where your jetting is at. AND remember, jetting is not a performance mod, it is properly tuning your setup. You also may need to run higher octane fuel to prevent preignition or detonation. I would also recomend doing some reading on here and learn your way around your Banshee so you will understand what we are talking about and we can help you faster. Good luck.

If you haven't put the top case on, I would inspect ALL your gears for burrs, nicks or other damage. You also might try cleaning the bearings with some brakeclean and air and then lightly oiling them. It sounds like it is catching when you are just spinning the tranny, not shifting. If that is the case, I would not put it together until it is right. If the problem is while you are trying to shift, you need tosopin things so the dogs will line up and engage.

Since I live in a climate that freezes in the winter, I run 50/50 with the prescribed amount of watter wetter in mine. I usually don't have problems with it running hot, I have a gauge so I know where it is at. As for your leak, if it is the kickstarter seal you can replace that with out draining anything or pulling the clutch cover- just pry the seal out and put the new one in. And you might make sure the cover screws are tight before you change the gasket if that is where it is leaking.

X2 on this. It is much better to short out a low energy wire than a high energy wire, orange is high energy and the black/white wire is low energy. Yamaha put the black/white wire there to turn the bike off, so why not use it?

Plan on spending ALOT of money because your crank is seperating and when it finally lets go there is going to be alot of shrapnel causing ALOT of damage. At a minimum you will need a crank assembly, pistons, repair your head(cut and rechamber) or new domes for coolhead,bore job or possibly new cylinders or sleeves, and possibly even cases if they break. From the way you describe it it could let go as soon as you fire it up. The bottom line is you should just fix it while it is apart and if you don't have the money, let it sit until you do. If you are going to run the dog shit out of it, it will be sitting broken while you save your money. If it was mine, I would put a crank in, make sure the bore is good with forged pistons, port it, increase your compression, bump the timing, add some reeds and jet it properly. That will make a nice all around bike for you.

Most of the people I know would rather have a 2 stroke. The 4 strokes were forced upon us because that is what the factories decided to make because the US government was cracking down on emissions. It was easier to build a hotrod 4 stroke such as a YFZ450 or TRX450R than it was to come up with a clean running 2 stroke. Very few people know how much maintenence is involved with the high performance 4 strokes when they buy them, if they did they would still want a 2 stroke. The people I ride with would rather have a 2 stroke, but the ones that don't wrench themselves buy a new bike every 2-5 years and 4 strokes are all you can buy, so that is why there are so many out there.

I have never seen a set. The 1-1/8 bars came about as a way to get more strength in aluminum bars and all the V bars I have seen are made of steel.

Factory Yamaha is the best but you pay for it. Never used either Haynes or Clymers for the Banshee but I use alot of Haynes manuals for cars and trucks. As was mention, the Haynes also covers Warriors so you may have to sort through some extra reading to find things. Everybody here uses the Clymers but as was mentioned, there is some missing info. The factory manual cost more but has all the info in it and once you learn how it is set up it is easy to find stuff. It even has diagrams showing how every hose, cable and wire is supposed to be routed. When you need info right now, the extra expense is worth it so you can get your bike going.

Every crank I have seen, all of them have come from JD Racing or Twister, have been welded on the center pin and the rod pins!!!!!!!!!

The floats themselves are identical, it is the float bowl that is different. The one with the brass BB goes on the left carb. You could have a problem with the neele valve seat- the o ring that seals it to the carb body either wears or gets hard and then fuel leaks into the float bowl around the outside of the seat instead of going through the seat.

You are essentially going to be in a paved parking lot in a marked parking space with other rigs right beside you, so if you dump your grey on the pavement everybody will know and you will be busted and booted. If you happen to be sand camping, you are not supposed to dump it and right now we have a MAJOR battle going on with the Eco freaks so we don't need you giving them a reason to close more of our dunes. I don't know of any body that will come out and suck out your tanks, but if you go north on 101 there is a dump station somewhere and there is also a state park where you can dump for free.

You can't just remove the lid and run it, the lid is what holds the filter in place to make it seal to the air box so you would be letting dirt into the motor. You need to get a Pro Flow adapter and bolt it to the airbox and get a good K&N or some other aftermarket filter to run the airbox without a lid. The adapter will come with directions telling you how to do it. If you look at the lid you will see 2 hooks at the front, these are what hold the filter in place. Of course the bike may already have a Pro Flow adapter, look for an aluminum plate bolted to the inside of the airbox at the front and the filter will be clamped to it. If it looks lean richen it up, it is always better to start rich and start decreasing jet sizes till it is right, than to start lean and go up. Starting lean and going up is a good way to damage a motor.

I have an 89 that I bought brand new in 89. I have Engine Trix pipes although Toomey T3s are what was really popular back then. I run a cut and chambered stock head because I did not want to spend the money for a Pro Design Cool Head, that was the only one available back then. You would either go with Boyesen Rad Valves or FMF Ram Valves for reeds, although I run ported stock cages with Boyesen petals on mine. I used to run a +4 JP Racing swingarm(stock style), butg it cracked repeatedly, so now I have a +4 stock swingarm that was cut and extended. I have JP Racing upper D arms and Lonestar lower A arms on it, an Axcaliber axle, Works triple rate w/rezzies up front and a reworked stock rear shock. Also, if you want to truly look like an 89, you are going to have to have 10 inch rear wheels as the 89 and 90 came with a 4 on 156 rear bolt pattern that only came on those years and 8 or 9 inch wheels won't fit with that pattern. Also, back in 89 there weas no billet parts and only some crappy looking seat covers available, so most of them were stock in the appearance dept. Mine has been chromed , billetized, custom painted, custom seat, etc. The only give away that it is an 89 is the rear wheel bolt pattern. If I had to buy parts to build or do a major resto, I would buy the current type parts and get the best perfomance possible. A resto looking 89 is not worth any more than one that has current parts on it, maybe it is worth even less in today's market.

Sorry, you sound like a kid who is more worried about how his bike sounds than having an enjoyable place to ride and a nice quiet bike to keep it that way. I personally hate loud raspy sounding bikes andthe people that think they are cool. A fast quiet bike is way more impressive than a loud fast bike.

Well he comes off as a kid who thinks loud pipes are cool and we don't need more of those running around! Most of them don't ever repack their silencers!

You might want to try the PIAA or Tusk Super Brite bulbs. The tusk bulbs are about $10 a piece and the PIAAs run about $35 a piece. There should be a thread on here about them, use the search. If those are not good enough, then I would do DC conversion and go with a set of HIDs. As was said, LEDs don't seem to project much light, but they are great for marker lights.

I would recomend keeping your silencers long. We have a big enough fight to keep riding areas open without more idiots running around with obnoxious bikes damaging our reputation. When I went to the longer Cascade CSFX silencers on my bike I did not notice any power loss over the shorter silencers I had been running, so I don't think there is much power to be gained by a shorter silencer, the length of the expansion chamber is more important.

X2 on this, I would recomend either Yamabond 4 or MotoSeal although Hondabond 4 is probably the same stuff as Yamabond 4 just in Honda packaging. All the OEMs have their chemicals and supplies made by someone else.

We went to SandFest and for every event that you entered you get a gift card from Rocky Mt. I wish mine would get here because I want a new set of riding pants.

Trinity pipes are the LEAST recomended pipe on here with the possible exception of DG pipes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did you put the choke tube back between the carbs when you re-installed them? Did you get the float bowls switched between the carbs when you reassembled them? You need to answer ALL of our questions for us to help you.