RadarRacing

Mexichrome for the win. MCFTW!

7 paddles are wierd , havent seen them before. Rippers are easier to get to spin if they have alot of air in them. You might try 6 or 10 lbs of air in them. An 8 paddle extreme may be a better tire for you. A 7 paddle ripper probably hooks like a 9 to 10 paddle extreme. Alotta peeps dont like em cuz they stick in the sand hard and their bikes are worthless after 4th gear.

Correct timing is dependant on squish, porting , and pipes. With small bore pipes you may be in the 8 to 10 range or even more , if you are running big bore pipes 6 to 7 should be a good place to start and probably not need more.

They aren't needed anyway. I have seen honest no wild non triple exhaust stock cyls make big power. One 7mil made 110hp. Some 4 mils are over 100 and even the rare 350 is 100.

Three wsm pistons mentioned here that were used have a .032 or .030 higher pin to crown and would corrctly fix your problem as well. Out you ran it like this art all you know that it has no lowend at all.

Good nees for you. Wiseco blaster pistons and a longrod stock stroke end up.031 or .032 shorter than they are supposed to. You need the cyls down basically .032. I have fixed two of that combo. One was a cub, one a stocker. Don't try to fix it with the head. It needs out off the bottom of the cyls too correct port timing and blowdown. I like .036 to.040 squish on an alky 350 depending on pipes.

I dont see why you would take a new crank apart. Vitos and wsm are good, even the wang crank webs are good, but rods are crap. I have a hotrods 4 mil crank with a bent rod if you want one to rebuild yourself or to use the webs.

MFer is in da Klan..... Figures , why he dont like high rollin jiggas with lectrons.

Whenever I havent purged my crap my carbs are gummy as hell and PJ lines are gummed or almost clogged completely. I have had this with super tech as well as 927. I dunno how you get away with not purging. I would for sure fry a motor.

I did a set recently. No need to do the trench any deeper but the top case has to be done and it cant be just bored , it has to have quite a bit of hand or cnc work, not just a bore as the lower part next to the crank journals gets square. Honestly the builders that do it for $100 or 150 are giving you quite a good deal.

Guys that have been to LS one time or have never been may not have had the usual conditions which are present. I doubt there will be 421s with inframes that will be faster there with a huge staggered tire and a plus 14 swingarm than a plus 10 or 12 and 12 to 14 paddle extremes. He asked about a setup for inframes , ( dune )riding and currently has a plus 10 swingarm. I see no reason to recommend a plus 14 and 16 paddle staggereds for him.

I would run the 10 over arm and a 12 to 14 paddle straight extreme. Thats what I ran on a very quick 421 duner. I honestly liked the 12s best but it had a tendency to stand up a bit when getting into 4th or 5th gear but was faster than with the 14s. It really depends on TQ and if it needs to spin. My setup was shearer BB inframes on alky 421 with 59 ft lbs of tq. If running OOF pipes on alky you can run more tire and even more swingarm if needed. It depends on how your bike is setup. Stiff and low is quicker and you can run a shorter arm with less tire. If it is high in the back it will spin like crazy for 40 feet then stand up and be hard to ride fast. There is tons of bikes out there like that.

I like a ÷10 or 12 and 12 to 14 paddle extremes in a 73 to 74 rollout. If you are going to run inframes stay with the plus 10 and just add a paddle or 3. You dont need a big high dolla tire to be fast. The reciprocating weight of the tire changes drastically by the larger circumference.

If it boggs off idle or wants to die. Richen the needle position. If it is like a rich bogg as well as having to clean up smoke , lean needle position. DGH is often fine, 160 is usually about 3 to 5 jet sizes lean for our elevation at 1300 ft.

If you have 320 mainjets then you do NOT have keihins. You have mikunis. Also to any and all that read this thread. YOU DO NOT JET CARBS BY HOW FREAKIN OILY THE PLUGS LOOK. I am not bashing you but there are way too many noobs that think thats how you set jetting correctly. "If it runs like a raped ape" and idles perfect , just ride it and enjoy. Your tuning thread is done.

Welcome Brently. Glad to see a good guy on here. My review. I drove 250 miles to dunetoys to work on and dial in my bike. What seemed decently fast riding the bike was improved on by 25hp with tuning and making ignition changes on the dyno and the bike ran cooler with a safer richer tune. Its hard to tune the bigger bikes on dirt or a gravel road. It was well worth the trip.

That is cool. I cant believe that bike has stock pipes on it. It would be cool to see a competitive banshee racing modern races.

The domes are between you and whatever engine expert sold them to you and cut them for you. You ordered em. As for jetting, you will probably end up close to the 148 range on mainjet,48 pilot. Start big of course like 158-165 and go down. I have seen guys think they had 35s and they were 39mm pwks. Make sure they are 35s or it will be quite lean with 150ish sized mains.

Good luck with that 11.

The one thing about CW is if you get it done then it will be done right. They get stuff true and done well. They will do a wang crank.

Buncha liberal assholes , look at that whole state and its politics.They are people that moved out of NY, NJ, Conn because taxes were too high or they made those states suck to live in. Here they come to your state and move to the suburbs or country. They know they can afford 5 acres so screw you. A general noise ordinance solves the problem but that is NOT enough for them.

On a non broken in motor a compression test is not going to necessarily read correctly. Check squish clearance, if it read differently after a few good heat cycles then there might be an issue but otherwise it should be fine. Since you are new to this you might check to see if the low reading side or both for that matter have the pistons installed correctly with the windows on the skirt of the piston facing the intake/reeds and NOT the exhaust. Many make that mistake.

He is a pretty well known bad seller who went to the chinese cyls because of supposedly not paying CP industries for his cubs he sold of theirs without paying for them, it looks like he is passing off known wang type chinese cranks as a real crank. That kit is junk IMO.

I like the black and white bikes. Good lookin build. Even a so called stock frame build like that isnt cheap.

Just like they said. Why spend $80 to 120 to do the cases when on stock cyls it doesnt add hardly anything. For cub cyls putt he gasket on the vase and use a marker to mark it. Then dremel or air die grinder out to the gasket mark and taper down at an angle down about 1/2 to 3/4ths of an inch. Its not rocket science at all. If you cant do it then you should leave your motor together and send it off. I revently saw where a builder charges $175 for it. Wow.