RadarRacing

If you can get it to almost die when you crack the throttle right off idle then richening the needle clip position, pilot , and richening (turning in) the airscrew is usually what is needed. Just like stated above but also needle position. I usually do needle clip position if starting and idling are fine. To richen needle , drop the clip which raises the needle.

I would say they might have been in the airbox or filter and they threw it on. Meanwhile vacuum amd bouncing of the bike placed them in the cage. Makes you wonder if there were any washers that made it past the reed opening.

If you see the color change on the groundstrap it is out towards the end a hair. I think it will like 2 degrees more and if you go up a few jet sizes I think your plug chops will look a bit more pronounced and give you a good reading. The bike will also become much snappier down low and off idle. Just watch the jetting on the needle. If you do a plug chop at 1/2 throttle you want richer than WOT and more color on the plug.

Hey K. Many factors will make one bike need different jetting. If I had to guess I would say your domes were pretty aggressive or exhaust port is somewhat higher than the guys running mainjets in the 150s. If you want that bike to run quite a bit better it looks to be able to handle quite a bit more timing by looking at the ground strap. Adding timing requires quite a bit more fuel as well however. One thing adding timing does is it takes heat away from the pipes. You stated that the pipes were getting very hot. If I were tuning that bike I would go up on timing from where it is at right now and start at least 3 or 4 jets richer. I really dont think that chop looks lean. If its between the thickness of a dime and nickle it shouldnt be lean regardless of that grayish color. It appears to be a darkish thick gray and wide enough band. Some fuels and oils give wierd colors. Sometimes gray, brown or even yellow ring. For a rider or duner bike I shoot for a smoke ring the thickness of a nickle/quarter. On a 300 foot dragbike I tune a hair thinner/leaner.

Jeez Pasi, what the heck is wrong with you? Lmao.

In my opinion a few ounces extra is fine for the first tank or so then after that go normal. 2 stroke cranks with needle and ball bearings dont really need break in. The most important thing about 2 stroke break in is the rings which are being basically filed to mate up with the bore by the crosshatch from the bore hone. You dont want to get the rings hot which is what running across the honed cylinder can do. When hot they expand which can lead to too much expansion , hanging in a portn as well as heat itself damaging the quality and tension of the rings. I am patient about break in. I like to do 3 or 4 very short (30-60 second) startups with no riding to start the ring breakin process with at least 5 mins of cooldown in between. Then I like to idle and blip the throttle for no more than say 2 or 3 mins at a time with the 5 min cool in between. Then I will do a few easy rides of up to 5 mins with cooldowns in between. After that its good but I might still ride easy for the first 10 mins.

Stinger length as well as diameter is important regardless of what someone may have told you. Please dont spread incorrect stuff like that. If you build motors or pipes you know that. Bad info there.

Pasi, u dug that old crap up and now look.

Some people get sand in their vaginas way to easily and should stay off the dunes. I think I had the first ever big bike destroying crash at an HQ ride dragracing, there were 2 more that day. I came back to camp crosseyed, drank a beer, took 2 advil and went back out to trail ride. Its stupid to bitch about all the danger in racing when we all like it because MFers with big balls are riding the piss out of bikes doing what the average sxs or trail rider would NOT do. I agree the same fast guys will still be faster and the guys that cant ride , port, setup a bike, or tune will still be wayy slower.

Had you put a price on them you might have sold them by now homey.

Just get new wheels and throw those jacked up ones away or put the screws back in.

Wrong spot dude.

Those look decent. I dont really get including the degree key thing, they should come with orings for sure but very few pipe sets I have ever bought have come with springs. I agree with the 4 poke ear piercing thump. I hate it too. I will take the banshee ping any day.

A hotrods crank should already be welded. Jeff at FAST does real good stock cyls. You may want to send him a spare set and not the cyls off your bike as it may be down for much longer than you expect. His stock cyls do run great and he is great on helping line you out on supporting mods or tuning.

Good guy here.

I ignore what they look like for sync and trust the airflow the tool reads.

Yep. Got a washer pinched behind the nut.

I will take it. Thats a great price and you are close to me.

My husquavarna mower is a honda engine and made in usa. Thats why I bought it. Perfect combo to me. Ebay and the chinese in bed together doesnt surprise me. Ebay sucks , as does US govt owned shell company google.

Just like 332 said. I agree with him. 39mm pwks are just right and you dont need bigger.

3" too much swingarm. I would run a plus 8 with 11 extremes , a plus 10 with 12 to 14 extremes. Some will run a plus 12 swingarm with a 13paddle extreme or more. You are bigger than me and the rider can make the bike do what HE wants by quite a bit. Make that sucker stay down with a +10

Mine is the all aluminum one.

I may have new red tank covers still , I know I still have white and black factory yamaha ones still in yamaha foam wrap. Any of em you want $70 shipped. Radar

I have a nice low use one polished still. $50 bux shipped.