RadarRacing

Color is not a big deal. It depends on fuel brand as well as oil. I have seen black/gray , brown, and even yellow plug chop rings. Lucas synthetic oil is great stuff but gives me bright yellow rings on the porcelain, no brown or much color at all so I do not use it for tuning. I think the gray you have instead of brown is just the color of ash that oil leaves behind. It appears your ring is at least 1mm tall and that is more important than color really. Richer will leave a much taller/thicker and darker ring, leaner will leave a thinning ring untill it fades away to nothing (way too lean) . Our sweet spot is in between. You also read the flat base at the bottom of the threaded part of the plug and yours shows heat and plating burn there going around the base. The left plug shows burning from 6 o'clock to 9 o'clock and the right plug shows burning from the groundstrap 1 o'clock to 7 o'clock. That tells us quite a bit as well. If these plugs have one or two very long runs on them or numerous hard passes then they should be safe but if it was only 300 feet a few times then I would go up one jet size. This base plating is how we read alcohol plugs as well.

Good dude and picky about his stuff, takes great care of everything he owns.

Those are gonna be high dolla.

If you lean out the needle remember that leans out everything a little. I would jump up to the bigger main maybe depending on what it looks like with another chop. Dont be lean on the topend. Beer bottle brown ring the thickness of a nickle is always 2 or 3 jet sizes safe/rich when I have tuned on the dyno. Glad it runs good.

If it is beer bottle brown and not black then you are good. It looks slightly black but pics dont always show color the same as your eyes in person. Beer bottle brown is easy to remember. Beer is good. Lol.

Good and safe lookin to me. If you are greedy it still looks slightly rich.

I dont know who built it but I heard there was a 3.54 from a 465cc motor too. Those are all super fast times. Good job to all and Currie is doin well every year. Props.

I run it in my dragbike with very little warmup at all. It is fine and will go in gear easier than atf anyway.

I saw it sitting on the trailer in oklahoma a bunch of times and it never went out while we were racing there.

I have seen numerous bikes that have a right side crank seal leak8ng and while they dont suck oil they will pressurize the trans case and blow quite a bit out the vent tubes. I havent seen any blow all of it out tho. I would think the cases would have to be leaking or the drain bolt would have to be leaking very badly for all of it to disappear.

I tried calling him numerous times and emailed him because I needed a stator. No answer , I wasnt real impressed. Oh well.

The rotella we use is just the white jug truck or car oil. I dont remember the weight. Much hetter fork wear on overrides. With the springs setup on the duneables in my writeup on spring balancing and adjustment fork wear is nearly non existent.

Shawn did a 14 mil 70 bore cub that I think was shooting for that 525 class as well. Might have been the 10 mil 72 bore or the 14/70 combo.

You guys dont know what you are missing by not using oil instead of type f. I will never switch back to atf after running quite a while with $14 a gallon Rotella diesel oil from oreilly or walmart. Better clutch and transmission feel, much less creeping when dragracing as well as easier to get into gear or neutral when warmed up. Much less shift fork wear and the clutch lasts and holds just fine. . All the motorcycle oils or gear savers work well too. 125hp will hold with a stock 7 plate setup and a slingshot lockup under the stock cover.

Holy cow. Better start big for sure then if 162 was lean. I would get a 170 at least or 175 and start there. Gray or white is not good. Was that Wide Open Throttle (WOT) or half throttle?

I would wait on it but yes you could do a 52 or if it tunes fine 1 turn out there is no reason whatsoever to swap pilots. I usually only go bigger pilot if it wont tune enough. Even almost closed is fine, yet the guideline is 1.5 to 2.5 turns. Do timing around +5 or

Im with dildo /\ I have had issues with ignition components as well. Ricky stators mostly but also a couple cdis and oem stators. Signs of lean alky, burned plating on base of plugs or burned off ground strap as well as motor failures.

Honestly 28s dont hold the smaller servals back as much as you'd think. I know of a 421cc serval that made 83hp with stock carbs and yet only 85hp with 35s and 86hp with 38mm. For pumpgas domes the CUB domes used in servals have caused some detonation issues with some pipe/ dome/porting combonations. Serval domes for pumpgas work better with less compression than what are common CUB pumpgas domes. Same for race gas domes.

You are probably close with the jets you have. Serval are quite different to tune sometimes. Dont use cub domes BTW. I think you will be in the 155 to 160 range but start with the biggest. Ideally start even bigger than your 162. Like 168 and start working dow. Do a proper plug chop and report back.

Yup , yup. Or add another powerjet. I would think an egl plus an open PJ should feed your motor enough but some builds with an aggressive (good) dome setup and certain pipes will need lots of fuel. Are you positive you do NOT have a fuel delivery issue? Do you have big bowls? Carbs setup for pump or gravity feed? Definately make sure you have the carbs as well as all powerjet lines clean and the pj lines should be short.

Its always fun to read how great you are.

Wang rods = made of wood or lead or something. If you have one that is holding up your not making power like you could. I saw a 10 mil that luckily just made one rod a half inch shorter and didnt break. Most break.

They should work. Make sure you get a 77" rollout or bigger and a staggered will work better on real sand but isnt necessary for a good groomed track that hooks well.

Click any site sponsor or call them. I would advise you to NOT buy one of the chinese wang cranks on ebay or elsewhere. A 4 mil crank is the most common crank you can buy. FAST , Redline, Currie, No Limit, Sandtoys all should have them in stock.

Get your stuff from a legit builder not an ebay seller. I have seen numerous issues a year or two ago from domes that were just fine for cub applications but did not work well with a serval. The builders that have done dosens of them have them sorted out.