RadarRacing

Freaking nuts on here anymore. I cant believe some of the crap I read that people post.

They also will go straighter and basically slightly quicker with a little less leverage if a side had more traction. I don't like mine crazy narrow tho,

Money sent for mine. Thanks again.

If you ride woods type trails there are many other options for much less money than a serval. A serval is a thing you would do agter you already have pipes, reeds, advanced timing etc. Since you are asking the questions like clutch, pipes, swingarm etc you definately need to either read more about them or tell us what you have now and what type of riding you do. Also almost every builder sells servals not just two of them.

If you are wanting more power in a specific gear when trail riding or dune riding lower the gearing from stock of 14 front and 41 tooth rear. You would go smaller front and or larger rear. A 13 front is easiest without switching chains.

What model duro are these?

I have 127.36 in my paypal if you want it for the tires. I need a set of fronts and a bud needs some 9" rears. You didnt say what size rears are 9 or 10" Thats a hellova deal on carbs and easy to convert.

Ok. One problem. Those pistons do show a lean condition or a bit too much heat. Ideally the piston tops will show at least a wash pattern near the transfers where fresh incoming fuel washes off the piston. Those show quite alot of heat. This isnt exactly what you should see but it gives you an idea. https://www.google.com/search?q=banshee+piston+wash&client=ms-android-sprint-us&hl=en-US&source=univ&tbm=isch&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=i9hXVP-VHoqiyQSJn4L4DQ&ved=0CBsQsAQ&biw=598&bih=287

I think wheelman chassis does em. Stockers cut and milled are 1 lb lighter than lsr ones.

You wont notice. It doess suck tho that even on really expensive huge paddles you see the paddles all crooked and spaced differently. Too bad they dont have any real good competition yet in that market. STU has smaller padla brats that kick butt but then a gap until you get into about a 25" tall tire. A 76" rollout staggered padla brat would sell and be a good tire for many.

Lectrons can sometimes be. Buy high priced carbs , got wrong needles, buy $70 set of needles, burn up motor because you now realize they have the wrong seats, spend $70 on new seats, fix floats cuz they leak real bad, then the tune ride and be happy. See how easy they are. Lol. No really I like lectrons but pwks are great carbs. Mine are .122 dumps , dgh, with the PJs turned about half way. I love em. Great user friendly carbs when done right.

I was wondering too. Was thinking about getting draggin plastic but the fiberglass look nice.

Wth. Dude I wouldnt let either guy change sparkplugs for me. Send the cyls to ANY site sponsor on here. There are some I like alot better than others but most are at least competent. Expect them to tell you they should be in the trash. That first dumbass needs to refund you your money as well as pay for replacement cyls.

Nothin wrong with any brand of carbs IMO. Keihins with about a .120 drilled dump and mainjet with a couple different needles will be a good start. Maybe .118 with egl or egn needles. Those pwks will work fine.

If they have dgh needles in them it should be good with those needles. Basically when you drill the dumptubes you might want to start as small as .116 and do very short passes checking for heat on the plugs. I just tuned a 521 supercub last week on the dyno. .116 was too lean so just jumped to a .122 and did the dumps and mains at .122 with the dgh needles they came with the carbs it was perfect after leaning the needles one clip. The 521 SC draws fuel well so the two that I know of that were converted used dgh needles instead of richer ones like a 421/465 cub would want egh or egl. Dont drill larger than .122. If it is lean on needle or main at .122 go to a richer needle.

Awesome. I know KT does em right , they are pretty popular on their cubs. Seen alot of 38mm mikunis they do up to like 40.5mm. $30 from a legit company is good.

Carbs put on wrong sides makes em do that. Left on right , right on left.

Agreed , send all that stuff to a better builder and or if you think that builder os good tune your bike better, it should run good. I dont believe it would have wsm cyls or a ported head.

Coils bad. Imo

If you would like to lean the mid and top down a little it is easy with just a needle swap. Your dumps are quite big. It should have probably had about .116 dumps and .116mains and a needle in the EGN for duner/drag use or EGL range if you are a track only guy or use alot of timing in your setup. Then you would have been close to being able to use your powerjet for tuning a little. I would try some dgh needles in it with the .125 dumps and leaned out about 1 clip from the top and see if that gets you in a nice range to use your smaller mains like you have now but be good with a little PJ if needed. By the way there is no problem with running PJs all the way closed if they need leaned out more. Tuned 2 like that this weekend. I set my new pwks up last week so ot would be right in the middle and use 1.5 turns out on the PJ but can dump quite a bit more if needed. Hope that helps

Always some smart assed answer for you rather than an actual answer. Eric at Empire I believe does them still.

Skat track can bone us for 400 to 1200 for a set of paddles and still not put them on straight. Lol.

The cylinder may not be on their site or updated due to the unfortunate health problems including the eventual death of CP Calvin Pollet who started the company. The port layout on a serval is different than a stock cylinder by having 6 transfer ports instead of 4 , a main exhaust port with two added auxillary ports instead of just one exhaust port and a much better layout. It is basically what we would love to have in a factory cylinder. Remember 800cc twin cyl pumpgas snowmobiles commonly have 160hp, yet we were given 30-40hp 350s. The serval in every way looks like a cub but the serval has much more rounded power delivery with much more useable power in the lower rpm ranges. A 100 hp cub for normal riding is very flat down low and then the power slams on very hard. The serval would be much more rideable in the range under say 5000 or 7000 rpms where a cub would be gutless. Hope that helps.

Why dont you just run the normal 7 plate setup and a GP engineering slingshot that fits the stock cover with a little grinding of the 3 nubs inside.

$525 for a bushmaster on grabagun.com. tough to beat their prices. I cant hardly build em for that.