RadarRacing

4 mils in stock cases. 7s or bigger require case trenching up to 10 dont go thru the cases, there is no reason for billet cases for a 10 mil.

For sand pits and play riding there is nothing wrong with t5s IMO. Call a good builder and see what they recommend and how long it will take to get em done. I think a good dune port will surprise you how well they can run. FAST does good work and so does redline. Redline usually has quicker turnaround.

You also need the crank gear that matches that gear. Hell starwriter maybe he thought he was screwin somebody cuz they wouldnt work. Haha.

Drag ported 350s with drag pipes are fine with 39s.

Most can not be ran either way without modifications. Running a pump for alcohol is necessary with some thirsty motors, it doesnt have to be just a big motor but most running a pump are cubs running 400 feet or more or bigger CC builds. Running a pump can be a pain at times to get some carbs to not leak but usually isnt a huge deal.

Lean on the pilot or needle circuit. IMO if it holds 6psi for 10 mins it passes leakdown. Pilots can be clogged, gas can be bad or old, needle jetting too lean possibly. Hope you figure it out before any further problems.

22 inch kenda klaws work great. Holeshots are decent as well with low air. My bike would wheelie easily on sand with the 22" klaws on backwards and climb.

9 hp is not wayy less hp than a non ported 4 mil. I would call 40 hp less wayy less. Please do not exaggerate.

Plugs ground strap has a distinct burn line right at the bend. Looks perfect to me. Gearing is too high probably.

I have leaks fairly often when using gaskets. Yamabond em.

I dont like 13 tooth chains especially in sand. If you use a 14 tooth front you can use 14-43 or 44 and for dragracing start in 2nd. You may find if you start in 1st you will wheelie right when you hit 2nd and also what you lose in tire momentum right out of the hole will make you lose a bit which will equate to a couple bike lengths at the end of a dune pass. Good luck, we all started with trail type bikes and just wanted to go faster.

Powerjets closed because they arent the same as others. Needles will probably be too rich so leaned out and 152 , maybe 155 mainjets.

10 mil vs 14 mil price difference is nothing hardly. I dont know why people keep building these huge motors and then go get their asses kicked by 4 mils 98 percent of the time with a hard to tune, clutch breaking, crank wrecking pieces of crap. I havent seen maybe 10% of the 14 mil or bigger stroke motors that havent broke once or twice before they were tuned. If you have tuned and wore out a few cubs then move on to bigger stuff. Otherwise do what most of the non broken ones have done and buy it all new , have it all tuned and setup by a builder and shipped to you.

I sold it. Sorry I didnt update earlier.

I just stripped out two of my bolts cuz shayne said one was good. I like it a lot better now. That is actually a cool plate.

More trinity crap? How you supposed to adjust timing without taking the flywheel off if they are allen heads.

There are actually std and metric allen wrenches. They are sometimes close to a std size even tho they are the metric size.

There are actually std and metric allen wrenches. They are sometimes close to a std size even tho they are the metric size.

Jack your timing up to plus 12 richen the hell out of your carbs then get sound checked again. Then go back to plus 7 and ride. Lol.

Trade them for gas carbs.

On a stock stroke and since you are new to alky start at 7 degrees. Also get rid of the bb in the gas cap and make sure you run a gas tank vent tube, no fancy billet end. Check the carbs out well when you get them. I am also in the definately purge camp. I purge after a weekend of riding for sure.

+1 what he said. No fuel , any smoke on right side?

Squiggle squiggle dot dot lol.

599, it sounds like one way or another you have slightly less fuel at idle than before. Cleaning the carbs and especially the pilot jets may cure it. Try that.

Copper is soft and helps seal and keep coolant from coming up and out of the threads.