RadarRacing

One piece billets are all good. I would take the rubber off of any of them and yamabond or use any sealer and seal them to the billet part. That will eliminate any potential leaks.

You can run 39s or 40s with a drag ported 350 with high rpm pipes. If you were dragging only they will work fine. If you are riding off and on the throttle or duning, trail riding etc then a smaler carb will be snappier and more fun to ride. 33-35mm carbs would be a bit better. Bigger carbs DO make a couple more HP on a built high rpm 350. Hope this helps.

No such thing as front shaws with 1200-1500 psi In them by the way. If you want advice from a guy that has a single. I have a GT Performance, single aarm and its rough as hell at Little Sahara and mine had a broken heim inside the cup the shaw rides in when I got the chassis and checked it out. I replaced them with HD and larger diameter heims and havent had problems but I still watch it closely. If you lose one bolt or heim, etc in a single, its coming apart on ya and you are screwed. I don't think the weight savings for a single is worth it at all but my chassis works very well for me and I love it. I have seen 3 frontends come apart and they were all 3 the same chassis maker. A stock chassis with light components is about as fast as a chassis at the track but at the dunes the chassis can be quicker. LSR hillshooters work very well.

15/43 is about right. That is a hair higher than 14/41 which is stock gearing. If the track hooks too hard go down slightly to 14/41 or 15/44 which is the same ratio.

I prefer regular pwks over air strykers. Often times air strikers have needles in them that are for 125cc dirtbikes and will be off for a banshee application and you will have to change them. regular pwks or air strykers with CEL needle end up perfectly tuned in the 148-155 mainjet range but you should of course start bigger at maybe 162/165 and work your way down till perfect. Pilot jet in the 45 or 48 range. 700 meter elevation may need to be on the lower end of those jets recommended. Jeff at FAST who did your port work would be the perfect guy call to get the right carbs and jetting.

The reasoning is that they made less power on the shootouts and dyno runs of them. That is old stuff and old news. Most ditched them years ago. You can google it and find it if you look. Kevin Gigot that makes the Gigot Performance Slingshot lockup did one of the dyno tests of numerous sets of reeds. Yes the bolt spacing on stock cyls , servals and cubs are the same. The same heads , Intakes , reeds , exhaust etc all work and are compatible from stockers to cubs/servals.

That link didnt work. Here it is. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176939#entry1627908

You probably have 34s dont ya? Not much gain unless you are a full out drag ported or big CC build. If you are, then you probably want 38-40mm carbs anyway. An extra 1/2 or 1mm in carb size isnt gonna do much for ya.

Looks about right. If the ring isnt the thickness of a nickle go a lil richer. It will be kinda cardboard colored if used only a small amount then be a bit darker if you do a few WOT passes. Up to beer bottle brown color is good, if it gets darker brown or black then its rich on either the main or needle. Its best to have the needle a bit richer color than the mainjet if you do 1/2 throttle plugchops. I like the color on 1/2 throttle chops to be a beer bottle brown at least.

Those intakes are super common. Honestly there isnt alot of performance difference in one intake over another. If your intakes work just keep them. A better use of the money would be to ditch the pyramid reeds and just get some VF4s from Jeff or other stuff.

That is more like what we wanna see in plugs. You can see a very distinct burn on them with clean base where it isnt burned. The left pic is kinda odd looking you can see where the plating is blistered from heat and it looks lean for sure. If you were track racing you could probably leave it like the right side but if it were me and since its just one pass, I would richen it up a bit. I doubt you would be losing more than a small amount of power by adding fuel. By the way , to all reading this. If you tune on a street or dirt and not under much load definately add quite a bit of fuel. That would be WAY lean if you got on sand. A lotta guys tune on a dyno or dirt till their plugs look like that and then burn them up in 3 passes on sand. You are getting there , the iridiums obviously didnt carry the heat to the base the same.

Bent fork , put in new and try again.

I heard BAC was gonna be a sponsor on HQ so Tyler would post up dyno sheets saying BAC axles made more HP than JJA. Might just be a rumor tho. Lmao. No really, I agree BAC axles and especially their hubs are crap and so is their non existent warranty. Didnt hold up to an 86hp raptor with 14 paddle extremes. No jumping , riding . Just hard dune passes.

You did not mention how your plugs look. Do they look like new? Are they burned at all or lean looking? Try gapping your plugs tighter. That will tell you if you have a weak spark possibly. If it has a ricky stator with half red windings, ditch it asap. I would also use a stock cdi. Those needles more than likely read "PE-1"

For streetbikes, arent they? You'd need the perch and all, as well as a cable the right length.

"It was the cooling hose leaking at the worm clamp and dribbling through that case port thanks" Ah ha, cheap easy fix.

110-120 can for sure break gears. Especially full size rider and good track. I think I will have a billet 2-5 for sale shortly.

If you use a flapwheel disc on your angle grinder to clean up all your cuts it smooths em out awesome and is good for finishing.

Sorry fraire , I didnt see your reply. Still have the coolhead , would trade for vforce 4s or add cash if needed or maybe trade for other stuff depending on what ya have. Or will sell WITH studs for $125.

Start high always and if its overly sluggish jump down a couple and tune down till its spot on. Your 330 may be spot on but dont start there. Start 370 or higher minimum if you ask me. I would guess with your toomey needles your 330 will be close.

Could be leaking from base gasket under cyl, or head gasket like ^^^ but I would guess one of the hose clamps or hose between intakes and dripping down like shayne said. Its not leaking from those case nuts.

Leave the ball in. Also the word is "engaging" it was confusing when i read it as well. Make sure your clutch cover isnt touching or very very close to the pressure plate. In this case your lockup plate. On a Gigot slingshot lockup you have to grind the tabs in the clutch cover or the clutch will not "disengage" . Could be similar for the vitos, hope it helps.

A bike that is rich will bog even worse once warmed up. Honestly if they are 35mm pwks then you should start quite smaller on the main. Like 160 range and end up in the 148-158 range. That brown/black band looks to be at least 4 jets too rich. If I had that plug I would jump down to at least a 165 and start over. If you do one jet at a time it will look exactly the same as that. 421 cubs on gas suck balls when they are rich at all. Try to lean down to a lighter brown ring about the thickness of a nickle. Even at that it is probably still 1-2 jets rich.

^^^^^ any high temp. Flexes enough .

That appears to be quite rich. All the brown out towards the end can be rich on the needle and or pilot with idle time. I think you can safely go down on main and raise the clip on the needle. I would usually say do one step at a time but if that was a new plug and you ran it hard thru higher gears and killed it, coasted to a stop then it is a couple jets rich. Start with a plug that is new or only has 3 or 4 passes on it.