RadarRacing

You are really talking about a few hundred difference. The price difference over a set of big pwks with bowls wnd powerjets is going to be less than many think. Anybody bitchin about the price probably hasnt got a set of 40mm pwk pros bored , and converted to alky with bowls lately.

Those look great Eric. Horsepower always costs money. For anyone that doesnt know it , a 48mm carb is actually about 50% larger than a 39mm in area. That is a huge difference in carb size.

PASI , WHAT THE HELL. You dug up an 11 year old thread and people are replying on it.

I got a set.

^^ So sad. Tyson has been doin this stuff for years. Long before most banshee riders were ridin. He has always been good and fair to me in service and his prices are usually great.

I misspoke even tho I read it correctly. If its a stock stroke the intake can be raised much higher on stock cyls. 4 mils shouldnt be near the top, thats why I mentioned it. I for some reason thought it was a 4 mil when I typed.

Dont mess with the crank for now. It would be better to weld the crank but it may hold up for quite a while. $250 for porting on the stockers and about $50 to have the stock head done , + gaskets and you are good to go. Redline and a few other builders get em pretty quick. Some builders or even sponsors can be much longer , make sure you get an honest timeframe for work or a serval if you order one.

Wrong area for this and I agree that you would like to hear back if you have texted or called. 1 week wait time on a set of pipes is nothing at all. I honestly wouldnt sweat it.

"My intakes are 6mm longer then the last pair. And exhaust is 4mm wider then last pair. I wonder how much this will effect my jetting/performance?" These would be ported to some extent over stock. If the bottom of the exhaust port matches up right at the top of the piston at BDC and the intake isnt raised close to the top of the intake tunnel they should work. They may run very well for you.

Look like 10 mil cases to me.

Honestly on the bench is not the way t get a cranking compression reading but it is exactly what you want t do an accurate measurement of compression ratio and or squish clearance. Bring the piston up to TDC and use a plastic medicine syringe from a pharmacy to add oil to fill up the combustion chamber till it fills right up to the first sparkplug thread on the head or dome.

With it too rich it will bog off the line and then clear up. Try mainjets in the low 160s and make sure they have c,d, or e series needles and try again. Those that cant tune em hate em. Same with lectrons , they must ALL be junk because they couldnt figure em out or they didnt work on one specific motor or combo.

Oops , meant NO middle man cutting on them.

That is not right at all Tyler. You will find many more helpful posts of mine than you will crap talking posts. Dave the squishband was cut slightly deeper in one dome than the other and thus the squishband was also a bit wider on the deeper cut dome. As you know it's not really a problem with just one or two thousandths. I have seen more than one set in the last few years like that. They came directly from you, middle man cutting on them. I have another set ordered coming from you right now. I will let you know by phone if I have any issues. I was trying to stress the importance of checking everything on assembly.

Top half would be done as well. Some builders that have never experimented much and had a good running motor they worked on for a customer and they saw that, then they would assume it does something for power. They have no actual 2 stroke build and design smarts but they try to copy the best running stuff they see. The best running stuff from 15 years ago was like that so it must be good.

Dune trash racing used to do that. A buds old school 350 from DTR is like that. It runs good but I dont know if the cases help any.

I parted out a motor one time because it ran like ass. Found out the "high output" ricky aka crappy stator was jacking up ver 7000 rpms

Haha. Zilla. "Are you fucking retard?"

Double check your squish angle and clearance. Unfortunately Nos has been sloppy on a few sets I have seen lately. The most recent ones have been 2 thousandths off on each side which is no biggie but if the angle is wrong by much and causes negative squish it can cause motor problems.

Any good buikder like Redline or FAST will have them. They are just a few bux.

I doubt he is wanting to pay his bills like any honest respectable person would. It is such a shame that he appears to have chosen to rip off one of his business partners who had a very bad terminal illness and helped him in this industry and extended credit to him. I am sure Calvins family could have used a couple hundred a month while he was fighting for his life had RDZ Rob cared at all. I hope RDZ Rob goes broke selling his chinese junk cylinders. He is a freakin scumbag if you ask me. I hope you read this Rob and someday are ashamed of yourself or find yourself needing help in some way while you are very down in life. I pray someone helps you even tho you didnt help Calvin.

Before you get it completely tuned or think its perfect now definately get a set of shearers for it. You will have huge gains everywhere with them. They will be at least 5-10hp stronger even down low and the top will be ridiculous compared to what you have now. They will be stronger even at 4,000 and up. I forgot to add you should make sure it passes a leakdown test. I had a motor years ago that wouldnt rev and it was leaking bad under the back of the cyl at the base gasket. It wouldnt have ran long like that as it was very lean. New gasket and sealed up and all was good.

Dont worry about the pipes for now you obviously have a plan. Things to check in the order I would check. Plug color , if it were way rich it will not rev out Motor,coil ground , motor grounded to frame Stator pickup to flywheel gap

The best way i know to ship a motor is in a large plastic tub from walmart or wherever that will fit the motor with at least 5 layers of cardboard on every side. Also take out the drain plug and tape it wherever to the top of the motor. If dropped on the drainplug the cases will break very easily. On that plastic tub drill a coupke dozen holes where zipties will hold the lid on. Sorry about your motor but insurance wont want to cover it anyway so I would ask for a full refund and if he wants the crap back he needs to pony up return shipping.

Where that is shouldnt be any kind of problem. I would just put a dab of whatever sealer you choose on that spot and assemble, check. I bet its fine.