RadarRacing

Check star/eccentric adjustment 1st thing and everything else under the clutch cover, then move on to all forks , then like stated look at all other parts drum,dogs etc.

"Castor" , 927 , Benol, blendzall, klotz super techniplate will all mix and work fine on alcohol.

Yes it will.

Just like sleeper06 said. Any good sealant. Auto parts store grey will be fine if you dont have cycle stuff.

Dam 1 week after all you guys chain advice he is parting it out. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/186782-full-partout-lsr-vforce-cpi/

The rating on most of those chains is plenty strong for almost any normal drag bike. The driveline one is on at least a few 10 mil DMs , the DID, EK, RK have many users and hold up fine when the frame, motor, and swingarm are solid. FAST sells a bulk chain by the foot that is good and not much money per foot. Some of the strongest chains can be the first to break due to shock. Get something 7800lb or more and keep it oiled well. I have broke a chain but only when the motor was tweaking and you could feel the chain jerk under a hard load when it got sandy. That wasnt the chains fault.

The easiest way to just keep the front end down like said for being consistent is adding air to tires or less tire. It wont however make it faster. To consistently be quicker and keep the front down , you need a longer swingarm. A +10 can still be quick with a bar or without. A stock frame 397 cub with shearer inframes went 3.89 with no bar, +10 swingarm a couple years ago.

That lucas oil is great oil. I ran it on a few bikes for years and thousands of miles. They were always clean inside and it lubed everything well. Klotz, motul,lucas, 927, benol, blendzall all the good oils lube well. None are bad.

For a rider/ duner, they are just fine and fun tires to slide and climb. If you are getting whooped racing or hill shootin, the straight paddles from skat trak provide much more forward thrust.

Yeah. I meant 14/41. Lol. Same as 15/44.

Mattoon or redline have about the best deals goin on a basket. I would replace it.

To lean out off idle to mid throttle position on the needle you need to (raise the clip which lowers the needle)

Just throw it in. It will mix and not hurt anything. I hate the crap myself. Any oil other than atf is what I prefer. Rotella truck oil keeps my shift forks looking much better than atf and much less creeping when the clutch is hot.

Sounds like you have dome issues if you had it running great before. We see quite a few posts about athena cyls and problems. Some of that in my opinion is the person buying these cyls on ebay or wherever is wanting to save a buck and will also "save a buck" and throw some new or used carbs , domes, parts of unknown trusted origin in their bike. Before putting the motor together and starting it, you should know the squish clearance and check for leaks. I am guessing your compression tester needs thrown in the trash and if your squish is between .042 and .054 with your OLD DOMES then use them and quit taking advice from the morons that give engine building advice on facebook pages.

The ball bearing one is just fine. Easy adjustments by taking ballbearings out or adding. A Gigot brand slingshot holds a ridiculous amount of power with just a stock style 7 plate setup.

The ones I have had good luck with are the 28 and 30mm OKO brand chinese carbs that are pwk knockoffs. They can be had for under $100 a set.

Want a simple answer? Lean out your needles 2 or 3 clips. Raise clip/lower needle. Turn out air screws to 2 or 2.5 turns if they are in less than 2 turns. If it has over 25 pilots go down to 25. I would think 290 mains should still be good and not he too rich. If you want an explaination as to why, then it is because the low speed air/fuel mixture (AFR) is too rich. This can also be cause by a somewhat wornout motor, weak ignition, old crappy gas, too rich on the pilot, needle, or mainjet, clogged air filter. If you pretty much dont have to worry about all those problems then it is just a tuning issue and can be fixed with needle , airscrew or pilot adjustments.

Cant believe noone answered this yet but usually start with stock gearing. That is not much tire so going a bit higher than stock should work as well. 14/44 is stock , sake ratio as 15/44. It may be good with 15/43 or 42, possibly 15/41 with those smaller haulers.

Im in the minority but I dont think it matters at all. Hit the gas even the slightest and they start spinning. I keep the air pressure the same but clocking paddles I dont worry about. Bolt em on.

I needed a stator back a few months ago. I called and called racetech as well as leaving a couple voicemails and then sent racetech a couple emails and never got any reply. Same story from others. I dont even know if he is in business anymore???

You can also use regular fat automotive cut by the foot race plug wire like accel or msd. I have a nology with red msd wires im going to sell im not using $80 shipped.

Darren , just remove the main and stick the largest drill bit in it that fits tightly and measure it with a mic or look up what size the bit is in inches. Like .116 , .122 etc. .122 is close to 1/8th inch.

Yeah. That was at least 4 sizes too rich. If you thought it ran good like that then you should be even happier with some 148s , 150s or whatever thins that ring out a bit and lightens it from chocolate color closer to a brown slightly darker than cardboard color. Believe it or not those last few jet sizes make a good increase in power on a dyno. Over 10hp.

Sorry I didnt get back to you on this earlier. The cylinders will still be quite hot to the touch after making a pass or two. Just tune to how the plugs look. If you want to make a hard pass and kill the bike with it wound out, pull clutch in and roll to a stop. Here is what you would see. Wet and clear alky on base and all over plug (very rich) Wet with a browner oily look (rich but runs good) Brown with maybe a slight bit of thick wet oil ( super safe tune 95%+) Brown and dry (safe and running 98%) Dry and burning some of the plating on the flat base (99.5% but might not want to hotlap or run long passes) Some motors setup NOT real prone to detonation can run 300' passes burning the plating all the way around the base.

God darn , thats expensive. Thats just a noss supercub head. Noss SC head or chariot supercub head either one is what you will need.