BdBanshee

Make sure you get enough to pay for new cylinders, and porting if yours are ported. Sorry to hear about all your troubles................

I bought a swingarm used several years ago that had the slots extended towards the pivot bolt at the front. It worked fine, and when you put a new chain on if you swung it up as short as it would go, you ended up with more adjustment.

I have some non-Banshee friends going, but I'm not going to be able to make it. Son's birthday party this weekend and my sister flies in too. Have fun!

It's been so many years since I put my carbs on I forgot about the black box. BTW, I am using DGL needles in mine

Don't remove the air box lid unless you attach the airfilter to the box, unless you buy a Noss or Prodesign airbox plenum. If you remove the lid and run without doing this you will suck in dirt/sand and ruin your topend.

If all you did is remove the snorkel off of the airbox lid, then you shouldn't have to rejet.

I'm pretty sure the spline is the same on both of those axles, so that should work.

My Keihin 34MM PJ's take a different cable. I just order mine from Sudco.

I buy all my OEM parts from Lake Hill Motors. 1-800-569-2605 Have them set you up with a racers discount, best prices and fast service.

280953[/snapback] I just use an impact gun and hold it with my hand. 280955[/snapback] That's the way I do it also. If you are going to work on these very much invest in an impact, it makes the job way easier.

The crank bearings are lubricated with the 2 stroke oil you mix in your fuel. There is no need to add any additional oil, but you can if you want to. Just don't get too carried away, otherwise you'll smoke up the place real bad when you start the engine up!

Yea, when you put on the 42T sprocket you should be OK. If not, I have seen swingarms modified where you remove the axle carrier and make the slots longer that the bottom bolt rides in. Just use a Dremel and grind the slot about a 1/2" further towards the front of the swingarm. Try to maintain the same arc/radius that is already there. I have used a swingarm that was modified like this before with no problems.

If you are riding and turn off the fuel at the petcock then 10 seconds is probably close, but idling it should take a lot more time than that to run out of fuel.

That's correct.

The early model swingarms will work with the newer style carrier, but the alignment won't be correct because the holes that the carrier mount to are larger on the older swingers. This is because the older models had 4 large threaded holes to mount the carrier, and when you bolt on a newer model carrier the bolts have too much clearance and will not maintain correct alignment. If you make some bushings to reduce the size of the holes in the older swinger, then it will work just like the newer model swinger. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to let you know what the difference is from someone that's been there/done that.

That's right, the stator is underneath the flywheel. If you have an air, or electric impact you won't need the strap wrench. Impact is the easiest and fastest way to remove it.

Exactly, buy the thread in style puller for the Banshee. It has a left hand thread that screws into the flywheel, and then a push bolt that threads thru the center of the puller and pushes on the crank.

any swingarm WILL fit. The only difference is the carrier. Earlier models have a slightly different looking carrier with only one chain adjustor. The inside components are a little different too. But they will all fit! 279850[/snapback] You want to get a 1989 or newer swingarm, they have the two long bolts holding the carrier to the swingarm, instead of the four short bolts. You will have nothing but problems with the older style swingarm/carrier (1987-1988).

I bought some wave rotors from him 2 years ago and they are holding up great.

You should mod your shift star to make it go into neutral easier, it works.

I don't think they are. You can find a set on Ebay, or upgrade to an aftermarket set for better performance.