BdBanshee

If, even once it was pulled with a jaw type puller, it can weaken the metal right where that flywheel broke. Could this have been the reason?

That is correct .030" off of a stock head.

Might I also add that if not machined concentric with the crank, you can and probably will trash the crankshaft. Anyone that understands how to machine the flywheel exactly true to the crank shouldn't have too many problems, but just getting it close isn't good enough. Not trying to discourage you, just making sure you know it has to be right.

Remove the springs, and raise the snap ring wire higher up into a different groove in the shock body. Then reassemble..........

I think you should pass on it, and give me his phone number.............

You can adjust the preload yourself to soften it up some. The ring & collar directly above the white spring can be moved upwards to do this. Remove the springs and then you will see a small wire snap ring, move it into a groove higher up on the shock body and reassemble.

They are the same. Very Important Make sure you check the ring end gap, if the gap is smaller than the minimum in the instructions when the motor gets warm/hot you can score the cylinder walls. If needed just lightly file the end of the ring until the gap is in spec. You can check this without installing on the piston, just slide the ring into the cylinder and use a feeler gauge.

I think the Banshee, Blaster, and Warrior all have the same spline. Probably the newer models like Raptor too.

I'm planning on going over the 13-20th for Spring break, who was bringing the beer?

Like stu said, Boonman or myself both lighten flywheels.

Sometimes they will foul if the needles are too rich also

I missed it, is it on again?

I would buy a good used one. You can put a lot of $$ and stuff on it and still not spend what you would on a new one. Plus like you said, you can do it your way.

I have used one to remove the flywheel nut before, but it is much easier with a air/electric impact!

Both my sons have Lt80's. My 10 year old has a FMF pipe and Boyesen reeds on his, and I shaved .030" off of the head. It runs well. This summer I may do some porting on it if he is ready for more power. Nice quads but it would be nice if they had better suspension.

Factory book says .020"

Like the others said, the problem is most likely with the cushions inside the basket assembly. When you buy a new aftermarket basket you will have to remove the gear from your stock basket, then you will see the cushions and how it works.

Make sure you don't sand the head gasket surface, unless you do it evenly on a flat surface plate. Won't hurt to clean the nicks up in the domes.

Just get them chromed, should be around $100

If you aren't running enough compression to warrant the race fuel, then it's a waste of money. If you don't need it, there is no advantage to using it.

Magic sent me the wrong pipes once without the silencers I ordered with them, and wouldn't take them back because they said they were all the same. I had to have VISA do a charge back. Chapparel is even worse! Go with Rocky Mountain ATV, they treat you right.

The head will make the most noticeable difference.

I have used "Type F" ATF in my Banshees tranny for several years, no problems. I do change it regularly, but it works great.

Works shocks come with PC'ed springs, and I have had my springs PC'ed many times, no problems.

Same here, and my top end is almost 6 years old this time. K&N's for the entire 16 1/2 years I've owned this Banshee. I spray a very liberal amount of oil on them after cleaning, maybe that helps?