BdBanshee

I was having that exact thought...........

I think the topic title gave a pretty accurate idea to what was inside........

I guess I should add that I have 6 Barnett clutch springs in mine, so that's why I don't want to go any shorter than the standard. Mine pulls fine when freshly lubed, but starts getting stiff after a full day or 2 of riding.

About the only way to get those to fit on yours, is to buy some used rear hubs off of a 89 or 90 Banshee.

I have the standard length MSR lever and it is quite a bit shorter than stock. I wouldn't want to get one any shorter than the standard. I don't know about a matching brake lever either.

I had a cheapy for awhile, but finally went with a Snap-On $$

I have had some friends get 250R carbs and you will have to buy new carb caps with the adjusters on top, and sometimes new 6.0 slides. After all the parts are installed they seem to work just as good, just make sure they are both off the same year 250R in case the internal circuitry was changed between models.

I'm with SICK BOY, when you have it apart get it done. If you aren't ported I wouldn't worry about it too much. Some are put together better than others and last a long time even with lots of mods, and some start separating with just pipes. The average crank works fine with pipes and head work.

Aluminum wears out REAL fast!

Usually this is caused by the shift shaft centering screw breaking off. It is located behind the right side clutch cover. Here is a pic from the manual, #3 is the centering screw.

No bonus here either, I work for a multi billion dollar company also. We had our best year ever, and on top of that the last 3 months is even better, the best quarter of all time. Management got sweet bonuses but the working man, zilch. I guess I still have a job though, it would really suck to get laid off this time off year. My condolences to the people who did lose their jobs, I hope you find something better. Merry Christmas everyone.............

A stroker crank has a longer stroke. A 4mm stroker has the pins for the rods 2mm further off center than a stock crank.

I saw a 250R 3 wheeler at Glamis on Thanksgiving weekend one year that smoked just about everything at Olds, he had a CR500 motor on alky stuffed in it.

How true.............

$30 a hole is a good price, it cost me $45

Before I powdercoated my frame I had to touch up the paint after every weekend. Now it takes years to wear through. Here's another vote for PC

I has a set of stock arms powdercoated once, ruined them. The socket around the ball joint is plastic, didn't take the heat real well!

More compression (new head or modified head), timing advanced 4-5 degrees, lightened flywheel, and some pipes that are designed for low or mid.

Here you go:

It's not working for me either now. I'm still getting used to this new IP.

I made a bracket with a spacer mounted to it to keep the filters from touching each other, or the pipes. Here is a pic: Clamp on pic

You can check Amazon or CD Universe for the order the tracke should be in.

I still have some pics with dimensions for the back-cut if anyone needs them. My e-mail is [email protected]

1st mod, toss the airbox snorkel. Brings the jetting closer to where it should be stock, and gives it better flow. Head mods or new aftermarket head, pipes, timing advance, lighten flywheel, suspension, and if thats not enough porting.

This is slightly off topic, but has anyone modded their petcock to dual fuel lines? I am thinking of doing this and wondered if you had some pics.