swrbansheeboy

have you done a compression check yet?

i run k&n's with outerwears on our bikes, i got 6 years on mine before i tore it down. it still had 160 lbs compression and i only tore it down because the bottom end was coming apart. some guys run foam, some guys run k&n's. i think they both work well, i just happen to have had great success with the k&n's. i think that either way your covered...

you can run the br8's but you dont have to, the r just stands for resistor so there designed to cut down on electrical noise in cars. you can run the regular b8's in your bike unless you have a stereo hooked up on your bike...lol never noticed any difference between the br8es's and the b8es's so either will work for you.

not to jump on the bandwaggon but if you wanna party go to glamis, if you wanna ride go to st anthonies...

no... the honda stud pattern is 4x110 banshee is 4x115 blaster is 4x100

get them ceramicoated...

i agree, if your disk is warped it will chew up pads. as for pads that will last i've been using the tusk brand sintered metal pads from rocky mountain atv with no problems....

either your rims are different offsets or you installed it wrong... go back and inspect everything....

i agree but i also think it runs cooler because by running a higher octain fuel your effectively retarding your timing (in the sense of when the fuel ignites). when you advance your timing mechanicly your engine has a higher tendancy for pre-ignition so to counter-act that you run a higher octain fuel because it ignites at a higher temp correct? when you run a higher octain fuel in a stock bike doesnt it cause ignition to occure later than it normaly would with say premium? this is just the way i've always understood it so any additional insight is appreciated as i know you have alot more experiance than i do, i'm always open to another take on the subject.

there are a series of switches in the tors system and if one of them hangs up it will not let the bike rev much over idle, depending on the year of the bike the parking break switch can do the same thing. your best bet is to get rid of both setups and rule those out of your troubleshooting....

i'm assuming that there steel? you basicly have two options, paint or powdercoat. and both will make the size of the bolt heads larger so the coating will chip off when you put the socket on them... if they were aluminum then you could get them anodized... any way you slice it your going to mess them up when you install them. someone may make a plastic lined socket for your application but i've never seen one...

this is all i could find with the ck 158 rods... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry872853 the only time i've had this problem it turned out to be a long rod set up....

basicly straight cut gears are on the output shaft of the crankshaft and the input shaft of the cluch (mounted to the back of the clutch basket) and they replace the helical cut gears that come stock. straight cuts... helical cut.... basicly the helical cut gears try to "walk away" from each other when the power is applied causing alot of side load on the crank bearings as well as the input shaft of the transmission. a set of straight cuts and a tz bearing on the output side of the crank are pretty much the cats ass if you've got the coin to do it while your into it...

i'm sure someone will dissagree with me on this but it is my belief that race gas doesnt get you any added power, it actualy allows you to run higher compression or advanced timing which is what actualy gives you the added power. the higher octain fuel is harder to ignite so when you bump compression or timing it keeps the fuel from igniting too soon and causing detonation... as for where to get it, i have a cfn card and several cfn stations have 110 sunoco at the pump. the last time i purchased 110 it was going for around $5.85 a gallon. we have a cfn about a block from where i keep our bikes so it works out pretty well....

this is going to come off as a stock answer given for any hard starting issue but.... do a leak down test, if you have an air leak it's going to throw any other jetting fixes you might come up with off. also, if your getting fuel out of the airbox side of your carbs then you probably have a reed issue. the fact that your getting the bike to run by choking off the carbs tells me that your jetting is fat and since your running 200 mains that leads me to believe you have a major air leak somewhere.... i probably missed it but what exactly is your set up? all stock, pipes and stock engine? if you list your full set up then we can figure out what your baseline jetting should be at...

i know alot of people run atf and have good luck with it but i have to agree with the idea of atf being designed to work with clutches and gears in car transmissions.... i personaly run redline shockproof gear oil, i know it's expensive ($13 a quart) but i know it works well and it coats everything like power punch. it's a bitch to clean up when splitting cases but i know it's doing it's job, plus i can get a full season out of 2 quarts vs. swapping out atf after every ride. i'm not trying to sway anyones ideas of what to run for oil, just stating what i run and why. i actualy used to run gear saver then started running the redline because of a story my builder told me about one of there drag bikes that got re-built and the case never got filled, after several runs they realized that the bike had no oil in it. they were running the redline and nothing got chewed up so that was enough for me to switch and i have had no problems with it since switching. it was hard to go from something i was running that i had no problems with to something else i had nothing more than my builders word that it worked, kinda like going from running "insert your brand of premix here" to running amsoil saber. kind of hard to believe what your hearing is true untill you make the jump and run it for yourself. basicly there are many proven oils to use, you just need to figure out how much you want to spend and how often you want to change them...

i personaly recommend twister crankshaft for engine work 503-663-7711 e-mail: [email protected] you can have a shop do everything without pistons and crank but most shops would rather have those parts on hand when they do the machining. the crank not so much but it's nice to have the pistons on hand when boring and porting to make sure everything matches up.....

heres a couple pics.... just notice that the tip between 1'st and 6'th doesnt need to be ground off...

i agree, i had that happen to me once with my cascade silencers. they got oil soaked because i run a bit rich, didnt heat up red but the one side was blowing a ton of smoke and when i killed the bike the one silencer kept smoking like the packing was on fire... i'd be willing to bet that if he re-packs his silencers it will go away...

i have always used a set of picks to back those out, always worked like a charm....

yup, thats an amp link. i ran one for a couple years... there kinda like running a boost bottle, the only reason you keep it on is because you like to listen to everyone bitch at you to take it off. except with the boost bottle it doesnt hurt anything where as the amp link can cause drag if the bearings and sprockets get worn out. just pull it off and put a pair of these on there... http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...2#vehicleSelect you've already got the rear chain guide, all you need are the upper and lower rollers. you can actualy get away with running just the upper but it's nice to have them both...

does it have 10 studs in it?

28mm kiehn pwk's...

if your realy getting serious about building a swingarm dont mess around trying to fab up the head tube or carrier, give jj&a a call. they have everything you need and it's alot cheeper and easier to buy it from them than trying to fab it yourself... http://jjandaracing.com look under swingarm components, you will find everything you need for your project...

i lied... i looked at my set today while doing a leakdown on a 2-1 setup. i'm using a 3/4" thread by 1"slip with a 1" coupling (so like 1 1/4") to go into the intake for the 2-1 for stock i'm using a 3/4" thread by 1" slip to go into the intake... some crappy phone pics of my set up for a 2-1...