swrbansheeboy

you should be able to buy solder from any auto parts store or radio shack, and yes you should put it inside the spark plug hole horizontaly or right to left centered on the piston crown(sitting on the bike) as opposed to front to back...

grab a set of digital callipers that does mm's and measure the piston, takes the guesswork out of it. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93293

i'm guessing that was the problem...

so does it hang up when your hard on the throttle but come back when you let off? or does it hang and stay hung up even when you stop the bike? i agree that it sounds like a grooved basket but i would think that it would let loose as soon as you let off the throttle and backload the tranny... unless the rod and ball are welded and keep welding to the clutch engagement arm then breaking loose (i doubt it) i would lean twords the basket being grooved. i guess you need to pull the clutch cover and check the pressure plate/ball/rod/clutch arm and basket. if anything looks worn then swap it out. i cant think of anything else that would cause your problem. i would have suggested swapping your clutch lever and cable but you said that the clutch arm goes dead so it leads me to believe that your lever or cable's not hanging up....

what bore are your current cylinders on? a 66.00 bore puts you at 80 over, not much more room to re-build if you end up popping it again. if it's a fresh top end and it's set up correctly i'm sure you can get at least 2 years out of it (my last set up ran hard for over 6 years) but it all depends on how you set it up. dont get it right and your liable to use up those last bores pretty quick. as for the gains of a larger bore, my personal opinion is that you wont gain enough from a 80 overbore to justify losing a stock set of cylinders for it. i dont know what bore your current cylinders are but if there stock (imo) your better off just boring to the next size and grabbing new pistons and rings instead of buying someone elses used stuff because you wont notice the difference from 64.25-66.00 except that you just payed $450 to lose 7 chances at a re-bore...

you dont realy set up your own, you need to buy a tester. once you get a compression tester you need to pull your plugs/ thread the tester into one of the plug holes/ hold the throttle wide open then kick the engine over untill the guage tops out. once your done with the first cylinder remove the tester and install it into the opposite cylinder and repeat.

which way is your stock plate rolled from stock, twords the front of the engine or twords the rear?

to me $1500 to swap a crank is crazy, where are you? you can get a new crank for $350 r&i should run about $250... now if you need a bore and pistons then your talking an extra $300-$350. say $50-$75 for gaskets? so should be like $1100 ish? i cant say anything without seeing the engine but if it's just a crank swap then buy a manual and some threebond and get it done. if your in the portland oregon area i'll do it for $20 and a case of beer if you buy all the parts,gaskets and sealant...lol

put a light coat of threebond on the intake gaskets....

the 06500 is 40 over (stock being 64.00, 10 over being 64.25, 20 over being 64.50, 30 over being 64.75 and 40 over being 65.00) the 0030 is the piston clearance (piston measuring 65.000 bore measuring 65.003) either way, your 40 over.

i hope that you are mistaken and that what you were actualy looking at was the coolant return line from the radiator to the coolant bottle under your seat. if the vent tube on your clutch cover actualy does tie into the return line from your radiator then you are in for some problems since every time your bike gets hot and overflows it will dump coolant into your case as well as your coolant bottle.

the tube your talking about is supposed to connect to a plastic t that ties it in with the tube that comes off of the vent on the rear of the case (white vent between the ears for the rear motor mount) and a long hose that usualy runs up to the top of the steering hoop and then runs back down to the ground. i'm assuming that the clamp your reffering to is one of those cheesy single wire clamps with the small rings on the ends. look at the end of the hose that comes off of the rear vent and you should find a t, thats where your mystery tube should go. how much oil is comming from that tube? if it's pumping lots of tranny fluid out of that hose then it might mean that you have a bad pto side crank seal...

sounds like detonation to me...

yup, saber is rated at 100:1 but most everyone i know runs it at 80:1 with no problems. smokes allot but seems to work well. i was hesitant to switch but after talking to my engine builder (Louie swan) and being there after 5 of our recent builds made the switch without seizing up I'm sold on saber. 80:1 sounds crazy but after watching 5 bikes run it with no problems I'm game...

i'm with snop on this, there is no magic "squish number" that works on every engine. what setup your running will have alot to do with what squish you should have. as was said before, get with your engine builder and they should be able to answer your question. the best you will get here is a ballpark of what works for everyone with there setup...

doesn't anyone on here spell check there posts anymore?!?! top row, ABC with a check mark under it, you should try it sometime...

not to be a total dick but.... dont you think that if silicone or silicone based sealants were acceptable for this application that yamaha would be using them? i mean that given the price comparison and the volume of bikes yamaha (and all the other bike mfg's) builds yearly dont you think that if silicone was a acceptible substitute for yamabond/threebond they would be using it just to cut there bottom line? if it was a good substitute i'm sure they would be using it, you figure $1 per bike they produce in a year and thats alot of savings. they use yamabond/threebond for a reason and you should also.... it amazes me that people will try and save $2 to assemble an engine that will cost them $500 to tear down and re-build later....

if popping it with the 3 pound hammer doesnt work i would suggest tacking the puller to the center hub of the flywheel with a couple tig welds then tightening it up a bit and then popping it with a big hammer. after it's off carefully grind off the welds and remove the puller. if your trying to salvage the flywheel dont use a 3 jaw puller, if your just trying to remove it to replace it with a new one a 3 jaw puller will work but it will usualy mangle the flywheel...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

i always thought dominator was only good up till 50:1, you sure your not running sabre?

it always amazes me that people will drop $300+ on a rebuild but wanna save $5 on a tube of sealant when it could cost them another $300+....

yes, the reeds are installed when you do the test. they do act as a "one way valve" but with the low pressure used for a leak down test it doesnt matter...

agreed, i have two bikes built almost identical. one with a milled head and metal gasket and one with a cool head and o-rings, i think i've replaced the o-rings about 4 times in 8 years and never replaced the metal gasket once. nothing wrong with the cool head or engine, just that the o-rings gave out and i lost compression. also once the edge of the dome broke off. to me they both have there advantages. if you know what cc dome you want to run and never want to change your set up then go with a milled head, it's way cheaper. if you like the idea of being able to switch domes on the fly plus be able to just replace a dome when you frag a piston then do a cool head. keep in mind most of the time you have to purchase domes in pairs and there usualy as much as a milled stock head, plus make sure you purchase a cool head that uses the pro design style domes and o-ring kits. otherwise you will play hell trying to find parts at the local bike shop when you smoke a dome or an o-ring on your weekend riding trip...

yep... a couple heat cycles, re-torque. then beat it like a red headed step child.... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

twister has done all my bikes and every bike i've ever worked on (that had port work) and i couldnt be happier. they have all ran hard and been well worth the money...