swrbansheeboy

agreed, i'd say stroke it but theres alot more to it then dropping another 2 bills on a crank... do the math and decide if your wallet can handle the hit, thats why i still run stock stroke 350's...lol if i ever do get the money to waste i'm going all twister though....

ok..... are you referring to the hush kit toomie sells to quiet down there exhaust? i think the original poster was talking about the dynaport 2 into 1 exhaust...

from what i can see to get a 440 you need a 7mm stroker and 68mm pistons... jj&a racing sells a stroke guage that threads into the plug hole but it's $230... http://www.jjandaracing.com/ it's under "other atv stuff", 3'rd item down....

probably a stupid question/ suggestion and i'll probably get bashed for it but... have you tried removing the screws from the fingers on the lockout to see if it gets better? i'd think if you removed the weight's and it doesnt shift any easier then it could be something other than the lockout causing your problem but as i said, it's just a suggestion and it doesnt cost anything to try....

anyone else see where the problem was? i agree with having more problems than one gear, strip it down and start again.... you know, sometimes there's nothing wrong with coming home on a rope, sounds like you came back on a rope anyway so it probably would have been a little cheeper to check your pride and ask for a free ride...

how much fluid did you use to refill the case? should have only been around 1.5 quarts. why did you replace the top end, did you burn up a piston by chance? if i were you i would do a leak down test to confirm that the engine holds pressure. this is just a theory but it seems your crankcase is somehow becoming pressurized above normal (theres basicly no pressure in your crankcase except fluid expanding from heat under normal conditions) operating pressures for some reason, now if you might have melted a right side piston you may have shoved a bunch of aluminum through your pto side crank seal allowing the pressure from your crankcase to escape into your tranny thereby pushing fluid out either the breather hose on the front of the water pump or from the breather between the rear engine mounts. as i said, just a theory... but i'd still leakdown test that engine if it were mine....

honestly i've never tried running a set of jugs without them, i just pull em/ clean em up then threebond them back in....

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...4#vehicleSelect

are you strictly racing it? and whats your set up.. swingarm length, stock or drag chassis, wheelie bar if a drag bike... i agree that planet sand would be a better choice of opinions on this topic but more info is needed to make a recommendation... if i know how your chassis set up i can ask lewie what he recommends next time i'm at the shop...

yea i read the whole "kick in the nads" thing but hey, if your a tough guy and feel like flying to oregon then be my guest... you said you want 3/4" spacers correct? well if thats the case then look no further... http://www.trinityracing.com/ under banshee preformance parts... you've probably already spent $50 worth of time trying to fab them and as much as my hats off to you for trying but if you want 3/4" spacers your better off just buying them. if you insist on building your own i agree that you should be focusing on plastic like material, i'd suggest polyurethane myself....

maybe the jam nut on your pressure plate came loose? i dunno... kinda wierd problem actualy.

did you rout your chain correctly? i've seen guys run there chain on the wrong side of the rollers before and it will make all sorts of noise and destroy the roller... you should be able to see if the chain is comming in contact with your case saver....

i personaly would go with the lock out if you insist on one of the two...

yea, run it down the frame and trim it off...

i agree with doing it the right way but i will say the welding it up thing works if you do it right... clean parts are key and it's advisable to use a tig welder, more heat in less area... it sucks if you need to take your stator cover off for anything but it does work if done correctly...

double post, slow ass connection....

if you have the april edition of dw they did a feature on our riding group, page 96. club profile.....

i've got a bike running 19cc domes and +4 timing, it's got 165 lbs or compression and i've been running it on a 50/50 mix of 110 and 92 for about 5 years with no problems...

theres always this... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

i try to stick with motion pro cables....

just an fyi... you will need a 32mm / 1 1/4" socket to remove the clutch hub nut. and when re-assembling the clutch you will want to replace the lock tab behind the clutch nut, i believe the clutch nut gets torqued to 59 ft lbs. if you have an old set of clutch's you can make a holding tool by screwing a fiber and a steel together then inserting them where your clutch pack normaly goes... just jam a penny into the drive gears to bind everything up so you can torque it down. also the screws that hold the clutch springs get torqued to 7.4 ft lbs or 88.8 inch lbs... there easy to take out but will snap off very easy if you put too much pressure on them on re-instalation. if you bust one off then you will get to spend some time with a pick set backing whats left of the bolt back out so you can go on a mad dash to find a new one...lol

yes, when doing a compression check you need to hold the throttle wide open. also, what type of set up are you running? if you have a stone stock engine then 105 isn't too bad, if your running a cool head with 17cc domes then 105 sucks and it's time for a rebuild.....

if you try and fill weld the hole and re-tap it you'll never get the weld to take all the way through the hole and end up with a bunch of clumpy weld thats barely holding on... you have a couple options imo... tap the holes to the next larger size and run larger bolts. tap the holes to the next largest size needed to insert a helicoil of the correct thread for your standard foot peg bolts. take a small piece of pipe that has an id smaller than the thread of your stock peg bolts then drill the frame to accept the od of the pipe, weld the threaded pipe into the frame on both ends. clean up the welds then tap the new insert to accept the stock peg bolts... i know that those bolt holes are at least 1" deep and trying to fill weld them with any type of penetration down inside the hole will be a challenge for any welder, you could plug the back and use a stick to get in deep but re-drilling and tapping would be a chore. i personaly would drill it larger and sleeve it but thats strictly my opinion....

either the cables routed wrong or you have the wrong cable installed.. your hanging throttle problem might be caused by a bad cable but if turning the bars is causing the bike to throttle up you either have a clearance issue causing the cable to pull or your cable is too short causing it to pull... any way you slice it i'd recomend purchasing a new cable and making sure it's routed correctly....

are you saying that the bike wont turn off with the key or that the bike wont run with the key in the run position?