swrbansheeboy

where in oregon? there are about 50 shops in the state that are capable of helping you with your problem...

my bike had 150 lbs compression when i bought it, rode it for almost 7 years and when i tore it down it still had 150 lbs compression. i only tore it down because the clip that holds my idler gear on wouldnt stay put cause the groove on the output shaft was broken off and my clutch basket has some slop in it... i'd say thats a pretty reliable engine....

i know shaving the lip off and driving a new seal in with a little yamabond will work but.... if your not up against a wall and have about 2 hrs to play with imo your better off to just split the bottom end and do it "somewhat" right. if you clean everything up nice and good you can drain your oil out and re-use it, if your carefull you can re-use the clutch cover seal. at most you will need to buy a tube of threebond, some scotch bright and probably the clutch nut tab so you might be out 2 or so hr's and about $15 assuming you already have a flywheel puller and all the tools required. you gotta pull the clutch cover anyway so why not just go all the way and do it the "mostly" correct way... look at it this way, it'll be one less thing to think about when your bike starts smoking more than usual...lol anyway, just my .02....

agreed, probably the o-ring on the brass seat for the float needle...

yep, you need a bearing cup and a press. as long as your just replacing one of the outer bearings just chuck the bearing up in the press and remove it from the crank, then take a propain torch running map gas and heat up the inner race of your new bearing for 15-20 seconds then drop it on the crank.... as was mentioned, this is usualy above the scope of your average garage mechanic so if this doesnt make sense to you or you dont think you can get it done without f-ing it up just go to a shop and have it done...

stock reed cages with carbon reeds, maybe boyesen? the black shit is normal, left over crap from the stock coating...

imo unless your willing to toss out the coin to port,stroke and carburate your engine your better off selling your drag pipes and going with a set of t-5's. i know a set of stone stock cylinders and a stock welded crank works well with a set of t-5's, 28mm kehin pwks, k&n filters, 4mm timing advance, and a cool head with 19cc domes....

sounds like you welded up the rod assembly and chewed up the actuator...

this should give you some ideas... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26260

hate to say it but if you cant use a magnet to pull the rod assembly out of the middle of the input shaft then your most likely going to have to split the cases and remove it from the opposite side. if you know what your doing you can flip the engine on a bench and remove the bottom of the case to get to it without tearing down the top end....

if your only options for a rear sprocket are a 40 or a 50 then i would say run the 13/40. if your trying to match your current 14/44 gearing (3.14 ratio) then the 13/40 (3.07 ratio) is the closest your going to find to your current gearing with the gear options you've listed....

i would try this option first, make sure the piston on the side you dropped the bolt into is at tdc then stand the bike on the grab bar and lean it back over center and shake it around. if you get it leaned back enough the bolt should fall back out....

i vote for gas, premixed or straight. it's a great solvent, it's a hell of alot cheaper than carb cleaner and everyone has some laying around the shop so you dont have to drive to get it...

i use one of these... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=92474 no more pumping the brakes for 2 hrs....

$20 for new ones is pretty cheap insurance imo....

i have an atv spring compressor, it's design is actualy quite simple. i just put a rag on the forks on re-install after pc... if i get some time i will post a pic of the tool...

so what your saying is that because he's handicapped we should all give him a pass when he comes on here talking a bunch of crap he doesnt know about? first off i dont buy the handicapped thing but secondly, your the reason handicapped people have such a hard time functioning in a normal society because your always expecting everyone to taylor there actions to those who are hadicapped. it's one thing to expect people to not make fun of someone whos incapable of defending themselves but when someone comes on here claiming theve built one of the fastest bikes in there zip code there obviously smart enough to understand what there claiming. it's not like this is the "little rascal" forum and hes looking to up the juice on his go-ped, he's asking questions and making claims that big boys do and for that i think he deserves to get whatever reply's he gets. it's not like he's in a wheelchiar and were refusing to open a door for him. he knowingly stepped into a forum and asked a question.... did it ever cross your mind that if he is indeed handicapped that maybe he just wants to try and fit in with all the regular people without getting favored for having a problem? maybe he just wants to be looked at as being one of the guys without everyone giving him a pass or taking pity on him because he has an issue? i personaly think that if heaton wanted some sympathy because he has downs syndrom he would have made that known in his first post, since he didnt i'm going to continue to treat him just as i would anyone else and i feel that you are doing him a disservice by coming on here telling everyone he is handicapped.... heaton, if you truley have downs syndrom then i'm sorry for your condition but at the same time if your going to come on here and claim that you've built one of the fastest bikes in your zip code but cant figure out if you have a long rod crank in your engine then you should be prepared for all the questions and ridicule that come with it.... sorry bud but thats just the way it goes...

i agree, take it to a builder to get checked out. i have no doubt that it will run with 5mm clearance but for a fresh bore and hone your supposed to have around 2mm...

http://www.thedieselstop.com/

i guess my question would be how much cash are you going to spend just to make your bike perform less? i'd guess that you could buy enough race gas to run your bike for a while for what you'll end up paying for custom cut domes and an o-ring kit to make it run on pump gas. now if your converting back due to availibility of race fuel then i guess i can see why you would want to do it but i personaly would just run the 50/50 and leave it as is....

happens all the time, thread a screw into the old top and pull it out of the cap. install a new plug with top intact and re-install cap. or you can just remove the top from the new plug and leave the top in the cap and re-install... done it both ways with no ill effects...

just grab some longer foot peg bolts and a couple washers to shim your peg out farther to clear the lockout cover, this is much easier than grinding the peg and will also give you some extra clearance to bend your brake lever if needed...

i'd be willing to bet that you have a long rod crank... i had this happen to me once, bought what was supposed to be a standard stroke 110 rod crank from cascade. installed the jugs and rolled the crank only to find the pistons came out of the deck just enough for the upper ring to expand and lock the piston up above the deck, turned out to be a long rod crank and the fix was a set of blaster/795 pistons.... i think blowit nailed the problem and inferno is spot on with the specs to figure it out.... you sure you didnt just meet a guy with the fastest bike on nos somewhere? i'd figure that for a guy who built the fastest anything troubleshooting this problem would be a cake walk....

+8 hp forged pistons, thats worth 7 g's by itself...lol

not that i like or dis-like it, more like i understand how it works and that i realise the gap isnt a stress fracture... i personaly would run it till it breaks if it's just a trail bike. also, before you get to far into that engine i would do a leak down test before you start ripping it down. i'd hate to see you redo that topend just because the o-rings in that cool head were leaking...