swrbansheeboy

if you look closely you'll notice those are aftermarket hubs, they have a bolt that runs through them that clamps them down on the axle. you will also notice an extra hole through the axle, thats so you can slide the hubs in and run the bolt through the axle to clamp the hub down again. slide them in to stock or slide them out to +4. you lose the spacers but they drilled the axle, but you also keep the larger diameter of the axle instead of machining it down to a smaller diameter. the design has it's pros and cons.... looks like that bike has alot of potential for someone with a little mechanical know how and access to a sand blaster, powdercoater and a polishing wheel....

wasnt telling you what to do, just saying what i would.... if your $15 bore jobs are working for ya then who am i to try and change your mind.....

bump...

i'm right there with ya! i use twister for all my machine work and louie charges $45 a hole, he also doesnt re-tool his bridgeport to do them either. he has a single purpose machine that only does bores, he's also been doing atv engines for 25 years and knows what needs to be done and what doesnt. you can take your stuff to anyone you want but if you decide to take it to your local corner store car mechanic and get it back with a crooked bore and no chamfers on the ports you will know why it only cost you $15 a hole while your sitting somewhere waiting to get towed back because you caught a ring and tossed up your top end... i'd stick with an actual atv shop that knows what there working with....

swap the plug wires left to right and see if the problem switches sides, if not swap plugs and see if it switches. if neither of those work you need to swap carbs. if your running aftermarket cabs then just switch them, if your still running stock then swap them and find a longer piece of hose to connect the ports where your crossover tube installs. you said that you replaced the stator, with what? i've had three bikes in the shop in the last year that would idle fine but would drop a cylinder once they got past half throttle, the problem turned out to be junk ricky stators...

you need to drain the case then pull the clutch cover, once thats done pull the 6 10mm bolts holding the pressure plate on. remove the pressure plate then take a small magnet and remove the ball and rod from the middle of the input shaft, once there out remove the 10mm bolt on the top of the case that holds the retainer keeping the arm in the case. inspect everything for wear and replace if neccesary...

the shift shaft bottoms out against the clutch cover, the type of shift lever has nothing to do with the ability to shift the bike. if your having to put tension on the lever to hold it out in order to get the bike to shift then i think your in need of removing the clutch cover and inspecting the spot that the shift shaft rides against and the nub on the end of the shift shaft.

make sure and toss an old gasket in there to get a correct measurment...

i run oury's, there like $10 a pair and super soft....

i've always wondered what holds them into the slides, if it's just a press fit i could see them shrinking and falling out causing a lean condition....

not to burst your bubble but... just as you are wishing to step up to a stroker motor i highly doubt anyone who has one will be hot on the idea of stepping down to a stock set up... i think you'd be better off parting your top end out then taking the cash and putting it twords the purchase of a stroker set up....

then you better hold onto it, i can get a motion pro puller for $13 from a stealer about 20 minuits away...

as i said before it is for a friend but... i believe it has some port work done to it. i believe that it is far from the last bore as it's sleaved for larger bore pistons. it is set up for a 5 mm stroker crank but can be decked to run 4 mm with no problems. if niks had LA Sleeve do there blocks then it's entirely possible that it looks like one of LA Sleeves blocks, but as i said i'm just doing this for a friend. the reason he's getting rid of it is that he hit the wall with this top end and his current set up, he's stepped up to one of twisters monoblocks and now has this one sitting on the shelf. not that this is a bad set up by any measure, just a huge differance between this set up and the 3k he spent to do his current set up. imo it's a great way to step into some higher numbers for very little cash if a guy already had a bottom end set up for 5mm or 4 mm and wanted to deck this or run some base plates to correct for the 5mm .... if your intrested i can get you in touch with the guy who knows about it, just let me know....

sounds like you blew a head gasket and it was pumping all your coolant out, thats why you had to re-fill your radiator. by filling the radiator and continuing to ride you were asking for problems imo.... as was stated, do a compression test. i'd bet you burnt a piston due to low coolant levels while continuing to ride the bike with a blown head gasket....

sounds like maybe the rubber plug in the bottom of your cylinder let loose, are you getting some white smoke out of the pipe on the same side as where the leak is? if it's the rubber plug the only way to fix it is to pull the jug and re-seal the plug, i usualy just pop them out/ clean the hell out of the plug and the bore where it seats/ then apply a liberal amount of threebond,yamabond,hondabond/ then re-install the plug and let it set overnight. once dry clean up the mating surface and re-install....

bump...

o-tay, heres some pics...

i will post some as soon as i can get them on my photobucket...

not what i normaly see from a port job but i say if your happy then who gives a shit! as long as your happy with it then it dont matter...

at the perch and at the basket, unless you have one of the two piece stainless clutch cable's....

bump....

could be right with your elevation.... at sea level we run 310 mains/ 27.5 pilots and needle on the middle clip with t-5's and k&n's... make sure your needle is in the middle then stick a 290 in it, if it starts to blubber then go back to the 280. if not then try a 300, basicly jet it up till it starts to fall on it's face then jet back down to the last jet size that ran good. same thing with the pilot, basicly throw as much fuel at it as it can handle without falling all over itself. pilot=bottom needle= mid main= mid/ top

he wrote me back...

for a friend, need a set of regular 38 pwk's. have a set of 35 pwk air strikers to trade...

i may be wrong (and i'm sure someone will let me know i am) but i'm pretty sure you can figure out what you have with the engine assembled. now i'm no expert at this so bear with me but i have watched my engine builder do this once or twice... you need a dial indicator (a digital one that does mm would be a bonus since you can run it to bdc and then zero it out), extend the end of the dial indicator out and drop it into the spark plug hole then roll the motor to find bdc. now roll the motor till you hit tdc on the dial indicator. now as to how to decipher the overall stroke number you get and compare it to stock stroke vs. stroker crank vs. long rod i cant tell you, maybe someone way smarter than me can give you this information. i just know that it can be done and i'm not smart enough to tell you exactly how to do it... i would assume that a long rod would be something like +5 over stock at bdc and also +5 at tdc where a 4 mill stroker crank would be -4 at bdc and +4 at tdc and a 4 mill stroker crank with long rods would be +1 over stock at bdc and +9 at tdc... regardless you will need to know what stock is to compare what you find against that, i personaly have no clue as i've never done it myself but you get the idea.... i've probably got it wrong but it's just some food for thought...