swrbansheeboy

if you realy want to be a cheep ass then yes, you can re-use them as long as you clean them up realy good, mic them and mic the jug's to make sure the clearances are within tollerance, use new rings and whatnot. i say get new pistons but if cash is in that short of supply they can be re-used. my question would be why you have a good set of stock bore pistons laying around. usualy you smoke them before you replace them... unless you went big bore on a whim... and why is your buddy re-doing his stock top end if it's still running good? trading stock pistons from a running bike for wisecos isnt worth the effort imo. and if he smoked his yours more than likley arent any good to him anyway...i'm just confused about why you would take the time and money to swap out stock ( i'm guessing still running) pistons for used aftermarket pistons. doesnt make any sense to me...

cascade innovations sells the rebuild kits (o-ring, spring and ball bearing) for like $10...check em out.. http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/ goto banshee accesories and performance then kick starter and rebuild kit...

so when you say you switched plug wires does that mean you unplugged the wires from the plugs and swapped them? i'm assuming this is what you did and that your problem stayed on the same cylinder...if you can swap your wires and the problem stays on the same side then swap your plugs,if it still stayes on the same side then you've ruled out your electrical. clean your carbs and check the choke tube since these are two of the easiest things to do and if your like most people you dont pay any attention to your carbs as long as your not having a problem so they are probably in need of a good cleaning anyway. do a compression test and a leak down test just to rule out any compression problems or air leaks as your culprit and even if it doesnt turn anything up it's still cheep peace of mind to know where you stand compression wise and that you have a solid leak free set of seals and gaskets at this point in time....

yea, if it were the splines on the hub it would only skip once then no-go...unless you spun it so much it welded itself back together. i'd be checking out your sprockets...

you can window your stock cover but there simply isnt enough room to fit a lockout in the space. go check out a bike with a lockout then note the clearance between the arms and the plexiglass. then note the width of the extension used to get the propper clearance for the lockout.

take a good look at where the clutch cover and extension go together, i know the mod quads used to be tack welded on and had a bead of silver silly cone spread into the joint. maybe the sillicone just gave out and you can re-do it...

i love my twist throttle but i always tell people looking into one that they are not for amatures. you need to have a strong right arm with a twist to keep from rolling on the throttle in certain conditions and always remember where your clutch is. they do have a tendancy to get away from people if there not used to them but if you always remember that you have a clutch then the bike cannot get away from you. my buddie broke his leg full on in half because of his twist throttle because he got in a hairy situation and tensed up and held on for dear life and powered into a tree, if he would have just pulled the clutch he would have been alright...if your not sure and have some extra cash try a terry cable dual gasser, it's a twist and a thumb throttle all in one housing. you push a pin to switch between the two so you can switch on the fly. there like $120 but there billet and come in red, blue and alluminum...

my guess is there on there to keep crap out of the grooves on the bearings, do your inner bearings have the two small pins in them? ditch the o-rings and use the clips that were on your old crank...

yea, you need the rubber seal that goes on the piston. the paper gasket on the block off plate is basicly there to keep debris out of the back side of the piston...

the only tip i can give you is if the three bond doesnt come with an applicator tube ( yamabond doesnt ) go buy a cheep tube of rtv and steel the white screw on tip and cut it all the way at the end so it has a realy small hole and use that to apply your sealant. it may sound funny but the first case i ever sealed i put the yamabond on with my finger, it was a messy ass whore of a job so use a tip. also i seem to remember the clymer saying to put sealant on both halves of the case, i only do the bottom since they are machined to have no gap when bolted together. anyway, good luck man!

yea, sounds like you got a bunk tire... soapy water or soap for that matter has been used alot to seat beads with no leaks and especialy if your leaking where the defect is i would be sending it back. as blowit said, rolled beads in the sand suck especialy in an idiot hole and thats usualy where they like to come off right when you need them to be strong....and once you blow a bead and have to ride back to camp on a floppy tire the wheels never seem to seal right after that...

you can go with a longer arm but are you coming up in the front out of the hole and having to clutch/throttle down to keep it in check? unless your fighting to keep the front end down on take off i'd lean more twords more agressive tires. i'm not a dirt rider so i have no idea what tires to look at. if you were a sand guy i'd say slap some 10 paddle extreems on that sucka and be done with it but thats not the case... you can mess with your gearing and move it lower and start leaving in higher gears or move it higher to bog the engine a bit if your using first to launch or you can just start using second gear to leave if your not already. you can also soften your rear shock up a little to make it soak up the hit when you launch. a four stroke will always leave harder than a 2 stroke because there a torqy bike compared to a two stroke. where they have power all the way through we have bursts of power when were on the pipe and are usualy off the pipe and making no ground or on the pipe and frying tires. if it were me i would waste a couple bucks and try and get my gearing dialed in. your going to have a hard time beating those 4 strokes in the tight turns because your shee will want to spin the wheels. if you cant make up the differance on the straights then you can always start looking at a 2 into one carb set up and some bottom end pipes like paul turners but you will still have to get your gearing dialed...

not realy, leaded fuels were primarily used in older gas engines to soften the blow between the valves and seats in your engine. thats why you need to get hardened valve seats in any older engine to run unleaded fuel or the valves will knock. since 2 stroke motors dont have valves it doesnt realy matter if you run leaded or un-leaded fuel in them....

dude, not to be a (banshees are unbeatable!!!!) type of douche but you should be able to beat a stroked warrior on a stock shee let alone with the mods you have listed. i personaly wouldnt do anything to my bike untill i started getting beat. with your mods you should be more concerned with putting the power to the ground without wheelspin than getting beat by a stroked warrior....

if you have one of these ( i do and it kicks ass!!! ) http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/SeeSnake-micro/index.htm you might be able to stick it in the intake side and look into the bottom of the engine to see if the pins on the crank are welded. you may be able to use a small mirror and a flashlight? never realy tried to check for a welded crank... usualy you just split the cases and find it....

buy your pistons and have them bored to match...

the way the octain thing is supposed to work is that the higher the octain rating the more resistant to detonation the fuel is. aka the harder it is to ignite, if your running to low of octain fuel in an engine that has either high compression which will compress the fuel more adding excess heat (like a diesel engine)making the fuel ignite prematurely or advanced timing which will cause the plugs to spark sooner that they normaly would causing the fuel to ignite sooner than you would like it to. both conditions will cause detonation or the act of your fuel burning before the optimum time it should. the answer is to run a fuel that is harder to ignite or that is not as flamable slowing down the initial ignition so the full burn will come on later to correct for these issues. when you use a lower octain fuel the higher compression will basicly pre heat the fuel making it easier to ignite which is why you need to run a higher octain fuel to compensate.. the downside to using higher octain fuels in engines that dont require there use is that since they are deigned to be harder to ignite your basicly retarding your timing. your not retarding your timing in the sense that if you do a +4 advance then use sub-octain fuel your back to 0 but rather that your slowing the burn on your fuel so it is firing later than it should with the correct octain fuel. if your bike was built to run on 100 octain fuel for optimum burn at whatever after tdc its set to fire then your causing your fuel to light after the fact if your running 110. think of it this way, it's a known fact that running low octain fuel in a banshee can cause detonation, how do you cure the problem? more octain to slow the burn. so why wouldnt it work the opposite way... imo yes you can hurt your preformance running too much octain but i still havent found the magic system that says " with this compression and this timing you should be running this octain fuel" it's pretty much as stated before, trial and error. the cheeper you get the more you start experimenting with lower octain mixes. i personaly use a 50/50 mix of 110 and 92 which in theory puts me at 101 but more like 99-100 in actuality. bike has +4 timing and 160 compression and runs great.

my bikes ported/piped/+4 timing/milled head and i run 13/43 gearing. i sacrifice the top end for the power in the idiot holes and trails. i can bog it down and pull right back up on the pipe when i need to but it all depends on what kind of riding you want to do...

"they" say that a 9 paddle extreem is the equivelant of a 10 paddle hauler but if you go to skat traks web site and look at the specs of the hauler and extreem there identical except that the extreem has the reinforced cup. i would say get the 10 extreems because there more durable. i have them on my shee and love them. usualy an extra $10 per tire but hey, it's only money right? lmao

now it will get realy intresting...lol i guess with your train of thought a stock motor with a 2-1 intake set up should be running at least a 52mm carb?

http://www.exriders.com/

just out of curiosity how are you bleeding them? are you pumping the handle and holding it down while your cracking the bleeder screws or just cracking the screws and expecting fluid to run out? if it's the second it wont work especialy with the cap still on the resivior. not to say your doing it wrong but just a question because theres so many guys who come on these boards who when asked if they did something they imediatly say " yes i've dont that already and thats not the problem" except they were doing it wrong and it wound up being the problem anyway... front breaks are a whore to blead out anyway. before i bought a bunch of stuff i would dissasemble what you have and clean it all up, blow out the lines and bench bleed the master cylinder assembly then work your way down. if the master's working and your lines arent clogged then it has to be in the calipers. they may be frozen up? if thats the case come back and post and i'll try and walk you through fixing them...

thats what i was saying, 89 with 180 compression and +4 timing... wowee...

you want the pointer on the clutch arm to line up with the pointer cast into the case while it's at rest with a little freeplay in your clutch handle. if it's lining up with your clutch engaged then you need to go back and adjust the pushrod nut in the center of your pressure plate so it lines up at rest. could very well be your problem... as far as the eight plate idea goes, is there excessive space between your pressure plate and clutch pack at rest? like the thickness of a fiber and steel plate? if the pack seems tight at rest then i doubt you need another fiber in there...

i'm just guessing your engine is all stock but your compression is still low, not dangerously low but still low. as long as you dont find any major problems when you pull the jugs your new pistons should take care of the excess slop in your pistons. find a good machine shop to take em to and they will get it handled for you. as far as what the clearances should be it depends on if your running cast or forged pistons and if it's an air cooled or water cooled bike. i think banshee's with wiseco pistons usualy run .003 clearance but dont quote me on it...