tedd1

Usually every day, don't miss many. And when I do come here, it takes a couple hours to check it all out.

Prob'ly gonna be some shit, but here goes... When we say "a colder plug" we are referring to the heat range the plug was designed for. Fuel type, chamber shape, squish, and more all play a role in dictating what heat range plug is to be used. From >HERE< Heat range The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling. The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter. An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for some manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire and Bosch), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For othe manufacturers (NGK and Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug. Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single pre-calibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage It is generally accepted that, when you change to alky, you go to a colder range plug.

Depends on where it is leaking, IMHO.

Another post from a loooong time ago... ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The Holyman kicker fix. Here's what you do... You go to the hardware store {Sears, Ace etc.} and buy... 1- .25" steel ball bearing 1- M6x40 allen head screw {I'll give instructions on how to find the right one later} 1- #8 spring 1- #2 spring and 1- #86 spring A- Take the kicker off the bike and clamp it in the vice. B- Remove the kicker lever. If the screw is stripped, drill a 3/16 hole into the OTHER end of the screw not into the head of the screw. You should be able to use a screw driver or a chisel and work the screw loose now. C- Be careful to save the stock spring that is behind the ball. {if it's still there} D- Use a Dremel tool to open up the hole in the post big enough to fit the .25" ball into it. DO NOT use force to fit the ball into the hole, you'll NEVER get it out. E- smear some grease into the hole and then put in the original spring {or one of the springs listed above. You will need to cut it down if you use one of the hardware store springs} F- smear more grease onto the post that the lever slips on to. G- Take the cone shaped spring and cut it in half and put it on top of the post with the small end facing up. Make sure the spring isn't so wide that it is wider than the post. If it is, cut it down some more or bend in the part that sticks out. H- Slide the kick lever onto the post and screw in the allen screw to hold it on. ******** Here's where you need to know how to get the right allen screw. *********** When you go to the hardware store, take the kicker with you. You want to buy an allen screw that has a shank {the unthreaded part} that is long enough so that NO threads are in the groove area of the post. To find this out, thread in the screw into the kick lever all the way. Then look into the hole in the bottom of the lever and see if there are any threads visible in the hole. If not, then you have the right one. I- After the kicker is completely assembled, make sure it rotates smoothly. Then cut off the rest of the allen bolt that's sticking out and re-install the kicker. It should last a lifetime. Some guys will re-install an O ring. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ There are kits available now, try Fast, M&M, or even eBay.

Stock configuration routes the case vents up to the handle bars. Could be a crank seal causing it to puke trans oil...

Keep it wet with penetrating oil of some kind while you get another puller. A little heat won't hurt. An impact might be better.

Lose it and run the hose down the frame under the rad where you can see it.

Cheap insurance at the track. If you have to lift because the front comes up, you lose....

One more try...

Do the pistons that you have now have a number on them? Do not buy pistons until you have the cylinders properly measured.

Getting that up ~0.050" with a thicker base gasket would get you a lot closer to where you want to be.

What is the squish on this motor?

Heck, there are guys born and raised in the USA that have a language barrier...

Jtw Everything went smooth. Accurate description and fast shipping. A++

Norton = resource hog

Make sure the flanges on the pipe are square on the the motor. If they are crooked they will never seal. You may have to raise them up a little at the pegs to keep them off your tires and straight on the motor. Raising them will get them off the frame as well.

What kind of vent is on your gas cap? Make sure it is working.

Are replacement petals still available?

Mine is in the Applications folder. I like it so far. IMO, BB sucks for browsing. This little app makes it convenient to check out a post. It was free (beta) for the BB as well!

The big box under the seat is the CDI and smaller s the voltage regulator. Look >HERE< for testing info.

Free bump for a good seller!

Great seller, I would not hesitate to buy from Daniel anytime. Thanks, man!

Under the gas tank, just above the left spark plug, there is a small box attached to the frame with 3 wires (Y/B, B, B/W), unplug those wires and you are good.

The Banshee spark plugs fire at the same time, every time, on both cylinders. If swapping plug wires does not change anything, I would say your issue is likely not ignition.

I checked Daniel's eBay feedback and it was 100% good. So, I bought the rad. I sent money and got a shipping notice and tracking number from PayPal almost immediately. This morning, tracking said package had shipped. It went through USPS sorting n San Diego last night. USPS says I should have it by the end of the week. I will update as things progress. Thanks, Rick