rubberneck

Ok, I am going to assume it is a tether kill switch that you are adding in addition to the factory one right?? One wire from your new kill switch goes to ground. Doesn't matter which one. The other wire needs to go to the kill wire for the CDI. There is a black wire with a white stripe on it that goes up to your factory handlebar mounted switch assembly. You want to tap into that wire.

Yeah, im trying to decide what to do also. Firehead recomended Ricks stators (totally different company) in a different thread, i may check those out. I need to talk to somebody who has done some DC conversions and find out if i even need a bigger stator. I am thinking that with a decent sized battery, I could get away with a stock stator and be able to power 2- 35 watt HID lights. My thought is if the battery is big enough, even if the stator cant keep up with the lights 100% I should be ok. I usually only ride for an hour or 2 at night anyway, and could always throw a charger on it during the day while not riding to make sure it is peaked before the night ride. Im not sure, need to do some research.

Whoops, sorry, that would be a vital bit of info woudn't it. They were all steel

Ok, spent 7 days at the dunes last week with both shees and had to replace the rear sprockets on both bikes every 3 days.(about 20 gallons of fuel to give you an idea) WTF is going on. They would be fine for about a day, then start showing some wear day 2 and then by the end of day 3, the teeth were worn to the point that the chain was skipping and popping like mad at even moderate throttle. The teeth were shaped like a sharks fin. (will get pics later) Now if it was just one bike i would say something is bent or out of alignment, but both bikes did it in about the same amount of riding. I have experienced the sand in the chain/popping thing before because i dont have a skid on my bike. This is nuts though. Here is the background. My bike 421 cub, roundhouse style carrier, new everything and I mean everything on the bike. Everything is tight and solid, and i verified that the sprocket alignment is spot on by clamping steel straight edges to the sprockets. I run no swinarm skid plate on the bike. I am running an RK x-ring chain that I got from Cascade, and a renthal front sprocket My brothers bike: Basically a stock bolt on bike. t5's timing+4, K&N etc etc. His bike we do run a swingarms skid plate on. Alignment also verified between front and rear sprockets. This bike had Direct drive chain and front sprocket on it. So my question is this. Could they just have been cheap sprockets?? The first ones to go on each bike were direct drive units from rocky mountain. The second set to wear out were JT units that I found at a local shop in Oregon. Will switching to a name brand unit fix this. What brand? Renthal, sprocket specialties, What?? Im confident there is nothing wrong with either of the bikes. Everything is aligned and the chains were adjusted to spec and checked daily. Im stumped. Ive never had bikes tear up sprockets like this. Oh yeah, the front sprockets on each bike were never touched and still look like new after about 40 gallons of fuel through each bike.

Sell yours first and save the money to get a matching set. It's not like 35's are rare, there are always a set or 2 for sale around here or other sites. Take your time and do it right. It might save you a lot of headaches in the long run. I dont know, they might work just fine mismatched, but is it really worth finding out the hard way? The differences may be completley superficial, maybe somebody else can answer.

Why not buy both of the above carbs and sell of the 1 you currently have?

Yet another victim of the RS piece of shit. Send it back to them. They must have something really fucked up because all of us have the same problems. FWIW, I sent my first one back due to the same problem. The replacement they sent me lasted 6 months (3 trips to the dunes) and started doing it again. Im going to get it warrantied and sell it new on EBAY

Make sure you order a new clutch cover gasket and water pump gasket you will need those. While you are in there, you may consider a billet water pump impellar, and i like to replace the o-ring on the water transfer tube when i pull the cover. If you decide to do the impellar, inspect the water pump seal, you may or may not need to replace it. If you dont mind pulling the clutch, since you are already that far, you may as well pull the plates and clutch basket out and mod the shift star. It is a nice addition.

Ouch, what happened to the KTM? Just curious, because i am seriously considering the 525 quad? Both my brother and I ride banshees now, so here is the list of spare parts i take to the dunes. Spare stator, coil, CDI, spare flywheel, clutch cable, front and rear sprockets as well as master link. Spare headlight bulbs (trailtech). I also keep a complete good used FZRclutch/steels as well as pressure plate and inner/outer hubs. Spare reeds/cages, Complete top end gasket set and O-ring set for coolhead, shitloads sparkplugs, tons of mikuni and keihn jets, a gazillion different metric bolts and nuts, oil, antifreeze, cleaners, loctite etc. I put together a toolbox with spare tools from my home box that i dedicated to the quad box, and have a big tote box all the other crap from above goes in. That way when i go on a long trip i just grab both boxes and go.

here you go: http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/index.asp Jeff is a good guy

Im out, nuked a piston last week. Funds are a little tight right now, so im down for a little while.

Update, i ended up getting the armadillo unit from rockymountain. Not the out and back deal, just the regular rack. I found a 1.25 gallon can at the local hardware store and if fit perfect with a piece of foam pipe insulation around each side. Made it fit perfect and kept the can from getting gaulled up on the rides. Nice having the extra fuel to stay out with all the 4 pokes. Only problem is my shearer pipes sit high and spray oil all over the rack making it look shitty quick. But i'll deal with it.

Had a ricky flywheel that i later determined was out of round, and im pretty sure it took out my old motor do to the imbalance. Just had to replace my second ricky 200watt stator. Im going to try to get it warrantied and then ebay it. F them. they suck. They either dont put out their rated wattage, or break up and run like shit. Im going to convert the bike to DC when i get it running again and run some HID lights. Ricky stator = garbage

Armadillo brand, 10.75" wide, 8.5" front to back, and cooler sits down in it 4"

Yep got me one of those nice RS flywheel paperweights sitting on my toolbox right now. No way in hell im putting it on my new cub. I am really thinking the SOB was out of balance based on the fact that it is out of round and probably caused my bearing failure in the old motor. Oh yeah, and i dont even pull the bike out of the garage without throwing the stock stator in the truck just in case. I think i may send this 200watt back for warranty and then EBAY it when it comes back.

I know, I know, the thing is i just rewired the bike, relocated all the electronics and regulator up under the front hood. I just really dont want to add a battery and remake my harness. It really wouldn't be that big of a deal i suppose. At this point i dont do a ton of night riding and based on how bright 1 of the trail tech 75 lights is i would be more than happy with 2 of them for what i plan on. i guess whats just got me pissed of is that if the damn thing would just work like it is supposed to i wouldnt have to change a damn thing. Plus if i do the DC conversion, then I will end up spending another 500+ for the HID lights and all that crap. i probably will end up doing it, im just pissed. Ricky stator = shitty

Yeah, somebody explain to that guy you dont have to have 14 pics in your sig. Creat an album or something.

If its got the YPVS head, it is an RZ conversion, that is worth some coin. If if feels like there is no bottom end, but hauls ass up top, the powervalves may not be functioning. You got a great deal if it is in fact an RZ shee

I only made it throug a couple of pages. Couldn't stand it anymore.

Yeah, I hear ya jeff, I just want more lighting, and dont want to mount a battery/ convert to DC. Im about to say fuck it and just buy a trail tech helmet light and put the stock damn stator in. LOL

Ok, I sent back my first ricky stator 200w the day after I got it becuase of a high rpm miss. That was in october. I sent the first flywheel back because the lugs that the pick up coil fire off of were not 180 degrees apart on flywheel. The new units they sent seemed to work correctly, but when setting pick up coil gap, I noticed that it was not the same on the 2 lugs. Flywheel was out of round. Gave up on the flywheel, just ran the stator. Was running 2x 50 watt (total 100) lights and worked fine for 2 dune trips. Just got done wiring up my lights after rebuilding bike, and put in 2x 75 lights and the damn stator wont power them. With 1 light on, it is nice and bright, fire up the second, they look like candles. So i figure well hell, maybe 150 watts is too much, put in 1 75 watt light and 1 50 watt, same problem. Replaced the 50 with a 35. So now have total of 110 watts and same damn problem. Only have enough power to run 75watts worth of lights now. WTF. I could get that out of the stock stator. F'ing Ricky stator garbage. So anyway, rant done, Is there a good alternative to ricky stator? I had considered the electrex that Rockymountain sells, but i dont want to have to run 2 voltage regulators and another wire for the secondary lighting circuit they use. There has to be an answer. Anybody custom rewind the stockers???

Will be riding at coosbay 22-25 and winchester bay 25-28th

I know this may be basic and dont want to insult anybody's inteligence, but Im going to throw it out there just cause we all miss the obvious somethimes. Did you lube the cable. Get a cable luber and blast that sucker until you get clean lube coming out the other end of the cable. I lube my cable after every trip to the dunes and that along with the easy pull lever with a needle bearing, and the pull is very maneageble even with 6 HD springs.

WTF??

Have you made any modifications to the fuel delivery system? Thats a long time to run it hard. Perhaps ran the bowls dry creating a lean condition? May need a pingel valve and gutted cap to ensure good fuel flow. Really though, like has been said, you need to get it apart. I thought i blew a hole in a piston back in january based on how the bike was acting. When i got it apart, found out crank had separated and lost a rod bearing. Rod was wrapped around the crank like a pretzel. sorry man, but look on the bright side, now you can justify improvements. :biggrin: