sleeper06

larry trying a needle in a lean position to see if improves anything is not stupid and can stear you towards needing a diffrent length /taper of a needle . I have tuned many bikes that needed the stock needle in the lean clip position , stock needles get finicky as you start putting bigger mains in due to the fact they were designed for 200-220 mains on a stock platform , if you read what I wrote I said put it lean , if it helps fine tune from there. You are rite I'm pretty stupid!

Might wanna see if the cops have jetting advise!

I have also used CPI on stock platforms with good results, and they get even better with porting

I would glass bead whole thing clean, and if you can find a good machine shop they can weld it and countersink a hole back in it, but u might be able to find new cases for around the same price

152 is a no go you'll prob end up 165-170 48 pilot needle 4 th clip

For example I run s smaller motor combo and have about 12 grams on each and I'm sure my base is lower also

You were doing good till I saw that rad set up , re think that before powder, maybe temps are not s problem on the ice I'm not so convinced that will get the job done

I agree tricked everyone should have one, lol

Back out air screw 1/2 turn at a time don't go past 21/2 out , go for a ride inbetween adjustments se if it gets better. Prob gonna need to drop needle position same thing one at a time lil ride inbetween adj

U need to keep a tight eye on that motor on 93 , keep the timing at 0 to start or run 100 octane. 160-165 main 50 pilot, jjh needle. I have ran motors with that static compr on pump before but I have a good ear and am decent at tuning proceed with caution

I also put a diffrent bearing in mine, didn't want to use that type of bearing , not because I didn't think it would hold but it's going on my baby so I figured why not

360-380 main to start 30 pilot, needle 4th clip ditch that filter n get pods if you can did he build your motor or you did?

Put the stock needles back in it 4th clip leave jetting alone and report back , vitos red needles rite I have had some terrible experience s with them

What kind of needles do u have? What clip are they in? What kind of reeds? Does it pull clean up top? Have you done a leakdown test? 30 pilots are good enouph to get u going with your set up and mains are damn close to my guess is there's something else wrong if it's shutting off with those jets, . My first step would be leakdown test , compression test, adjust cable play, ohm plug caps, gap spark plugs, start bike sync carbs, . If all other areas checked out ride bike if problems continues move needle all the way rich to start if prob gets worse move needle all the way lean. Fine tune needle from whichever point helps . Or ignore everything I said to check and ride it till it blows and then say I don't understand why it blew lol !!! Sorry for the rant , don't be a statistic make sure it's mechanically sound

I'm not saying I can't get a bike to run great on pump fuel and for shee rider that's his best option for his riding conditions. On the other hand same motor/carbs with more timing and compression the power delivery would be way diffrent and would come on sooner and more aggressively . I was reluctant to go to alky at first now I don't think I would ever put gas through it again. To me you spend a ton of money building a motor and then stuff pump fuel in it that your never really certain what your getting , most pump gas bikes that I've seen and done some tests on are rite on the verge using 93 and I mean 90% of the builds kick 155 static . I know people using alky succesfully in those ranges I know there's other factors in race motors but that's exactly what these engines are race motors detuned to run inferior fuel

How? Mixing fuel is pretty easy! Maybe fuel line gun led up from alky

Timing n compression = powa , pump fuel=

I like 2 bars on top one on bott

#1 before you turn a wrench pressure test the motor and see if it detonated from an air leak. #2 highly unlikely those cylinders will be able to be adjusted for 4 mil crank the transf/ex timings will be through the roof on a true ss drag port

It depends on glass , some imbed inpurities in the aluminum, I get my glass from a machine shop that uses it before they weld n repair valve pockets on aluminum heads. I have never had a problem welding on it but have had issues with other media like black beauty mixed with the glass, I also boil them out before welding works mint

If your on pump fuel don't go crazy with timing

Where r u located

I'm not a big fan of pipes that sign off early, I like over rev and pulling gear after peak power , every motor I put snipers on pull forever if you wanna hold a gear while climbing you can , slap is untested as far as I'm concerned a bunch of guys bench racing off dyno numbers, or be a test dummie

The guy at competitive crankshaft said wsm were the strongest he's tested to date but there in the process of producing a new rod 3 mill thicker in certain areas , carillo will make you anything you want , they made me rods and Pistons to match s 7 mil stroker r1 engine I built n ported for a friend but your gonna pay close to 400 for initial machine set up plus the part but after that initial peice it's cheaper

Sniper all the way